My 86' 4runner build

[dorton]

*This has been cut/pasted from another forum, and has been updated as I went, and now will continue as I go**

I sold this one about 5 years ago, and was called about a year ago by the person that purchased it from me. He was wanting to dump it because it had a blown head gasket just past the 300k mark. I was excited, because when I sold it the first time, it was almost by accident. I had priced it jokingly, and within a couple days the buyer showed up with cash in hand...
Fast forward to the begining of last year. I purchased it and took it to where I work as a service manger at a small toyota store here in NC.
I bore scoped it, and confirmed a leaking cylinder head gasket into #3. Just for giggles I pulled the valve cover and cranked down the head bolts tighter than specs. So far, 300 miles later, and it hasn't used a drop of coolant.
It was also in bad need of both front wheel bearings when I got it back, so that was taken care of that same day. The idler arm has plenty of slack, so bushings were replaced. Other than aesthetics, and trim the rig isn't in too bad of shape.
Had it out that weekend with wife, little girl, and dog enjoying the weather and snapped some pics

My inspirations for building up a rig for future camping/exploration

I had an E-locker i've had stashed away for a bit that will be going in, along with 4.88s front and rear. I'm wanting to keep this one IFS, and may install an ARB in the front when it goes together.

Up soon was to be rock sliders, and bumpers front and rear, along with a winch
When I bought it back, I had full intentions of installing a new OEM short block, ported cylinder head w/ oversized valves, but I hate taking this one out as good as its running. On my first tank, corrected for tire rollout, I averaged 22mpg.
My goal for this one will be a 2 week trip next year to our beautiful western states, accompanied by many nights camping here in NC, VA, and TN.

 

[dorton]

1500 miles since re-torque of the head bolts, and not a drop of coolant lost since. This includes 3 days of trail riding.

Broken temperature control panel has been replaced

I have a friend that happens to be a metal fabrication guy, and I have enlisted his services for some upgrades for my 4runner. I had him custom build some rocksliders using DOM tubing, and I have been VERY pleased with them so far. I don't really have any close ups of them, but snapped a couple pics with my cell phone that will give an idea. I wanted them far enough out so they could be used as a step for my wife, but not so far out that my legs would drag. I also wanted a rick out toward the rear tires to help push off away from the flares.

I started pricing rebuilding the elocker myself using 4.88 gears, master rebuild kit, and solid spacer setup. I found I could purchase an entire elocker 3rd member built like I wanted for not much more $ than I had planned, and it comes with a warranty from East Coast Gear Supply which is fairly local here in NC.

I also have bought a complete low mileage IFS front end with factory 4.88s, axles for spares, and a couple factory aisin manual hubs to replace the
warns it currently has on it.

To accompany the elocker, I contacted 12voltguy.com to pick up one of his switch panels, and harness' for ease of install

As of sunday, a soft top was added to my list of To Do's by my wife. She, my little girl and my dog loved riding with the top off, but my wife wants protection from the sun and the ability to close it up on the fly depending on the weather conditions.

 

[dorton]

And......i decided to not run the trailgear diff armor i had. Instead, i purchased this cover that is welded on your housing, after using a cutoff wheel to remove the original cover. Hopefully have some completed pics of the rear axle by the end of next week with the elocker installed, the new rear cover put on, drain bolt/ring shaved, and hole filled, u-bolts flipped, and shocks relocated.

Here is the barnes 4wd cover for the rear housing

I put my runner up on stands, and went to work removing the front and rear axle assemblies.

I dropped the rear housing off at my friend Michael's house to have the Barnes Diff cover installed, drain plug shaved, armor added to the bottom of the housing, and the opening modified for the 4.88 ELocker third member.

While he was doing this, I took the front diff assembly(factory 4.88s I bought used with low miles)to work and installed a Spartan locker

At 300k the rear end was in need of drivers side wheel bearings, and the right side wheel cylinder was leaking.
So I decided to replace everything on both sides while it was apart. Bearings, seals, shoes, wheel cylinders,
one e-brake lever boot. and all mounting hardware.

I then had my friend Ivan come give me a hand painting

While that was drying, I decided to yank the Warn hubs off to install my new to me Aisin's.
During the install, I replaced the star gasket, and the locking knob o-rings.

Here are the hubs in "locked position" Warn on left, and Aisin on right

"unlocked" same orientation

Final product

Ivan giving the thumbs up!

Puting a little bling on the front diff assembly getting ready to go back in.

 

[dorton]

Since the front was done(for now), Decided to go ahead, and install the 12voltguy's Elocker wiring harness, and switch assembly. Very nice product, very easy install. I did however decide not to mount it where it was intended. Instead, I mounted the switch on the dash, just left of the steering column.

With that done, I moved back to the rear axle assembly.
Once again, luckily Ivan was able to give me a hand. "here, hold these while I paint"

Installed my u-bolt flip kit

Then, I just finished up the little stuff so I could move on to removing the hitch,
buper, and little side plastic things. First thing before I could get rolling with that was
remove the bushwacker flares........
Ouch.

That may have something to do with it living in Boone NC for the time I sold it, the reason I
say that is, the spray paint can is pictured here for size reference to show the pile of
road salt that fell out of the flare when removed. This will be a project for a later date.

At some point during the process, I found some extra wheels that I had stashed away. One just
happened to roll up beside my rig, and I liked the look.

Ok, back to removing stuff. With the bumper, and hitch, and side plastic things, I had to remove the
brackets that held said plastic things by cutting them off. You can see the ones toward the rear corners here

With them removed, I had to get back to covering up the canker sores over the wheel wells. My plan is to section the flares
so they are flush with the body at the bottom.

This is how it sits right now. The tires that are mounted on the alluminum wheels are 31x10.50 15s, I am working on getting some 33x10.50 15 BFG All Terrains soon I hope.

 

[dorton]

Minor update on mine. I installed a set BFG KM2's in 33x10.50x15. I haven't had much time to do anything with it lately.
Monday, I'll be taking it out for a trail ride at Uwharrie National Forest.

 

[dorton]

One of my customers has a Toyota graveyard. Lucky for me he had a 4runner with perfect bedsides. So i spent yesterday with my pal Sawzall separating them from the donor. I am going to POR 15 the insides before the replacement. I have also acquired new OEM front fenders, 2 used doors with zero rust, and used liftgate with zero rust, black door handles, and black grille. Now its time to go back out and cut the rock rails off to get ready for skin transplant.

I've been working on it, and getting closer every little bit.
Hoping to have it sprayed the end of next week. The replacement quarters are being coated with POR 15 before welded then, liberally applied seam sealer at all junctions.

 

[dorton]

I am not a fan of the chrome strips that run down the rockers from the factory, so, during the
process, the holes were welded up, and finished and readied along with the rest of the vehicle.

 

[dorton]

 

[Devilmans Hand]

I dig your painting helper.

Good looking truck. How do you like the spartan locker in the front? I was thinking about putting one in my 86, but we still get snow and ice here in Northern Virginia where a locked front might prove problematic.

 

[Mr Chuck Norris]

Looking great so far! I love the new color.

 

[arndog123]

I really like the color.

 

[dorton]

Thanks for the compliments.

I haven't had a chance to try it in the snow. I wish I could give you input on how its manners would be, but it would purely be a guess.

 

[ROBsSON]

Love the truck! Looks awesome, idk if I missed it or not but do you have any kind of lift on the truck?

 

[dorton]

Love the truck! Looks awesome, idk if I missed it or not but do you have any kind of lift on the truck?

Factory height at this time. I have chevy 63's to be installed for the rear, and am going to upgrade the torsion bars on the front, then add ball joint spacers so the torsion bars can be backed off.

 

[flash02]

Very sweet dude, I'm about to go at a rusty rear fender on my 86' runner. wish I had a parts source like you, your way of fixing and preventing further rust is the best way.

 

[dorton]

The rust free used parts are getting harder and harder to find. Toyota has discontinued them, however,you can get fiberglass replacements from Canada, and a company named Wolf makes metal reproductions. I've read bad reviews on the Wolf sheet metal though. Their quarters also come in three pieces per side.
Everything i've read on the fiberglass is good, and the installation is supposed to be easier than the replacement in metal.

 

[flash02]

The rust free used parts are getting harder and harder to find. Toyota has discontinued them, however,you can get fiberglass replacements from Canada, and a company named Wolf makes metal reproductions. I've read bad reviews on the Wolf sheet metal though. Their quarters also come in three pieces per side.
Everything i've read on the fiberglass is good, and the installation is supposed to be easier than the replacement in metal.

Yeah I have been looking at the wolf metal parts, the only rust is on the DS rear fender lip, so I would only need their $150.00 wheel arch, even that is too much metal. I may just fabricate what I need. From what I can tell someone sprayed some sort of rust preventive in the wheel wells, it's kept the rust to a minimum, no rust on the PS rear fender and minimal on the DS rear fender. The front fenders and doors are in great shape as is the frame. From what I understand this truck was an original TX truck and has not gone any further then the north east of NC. My biggest problem has just been replacing worn out parts.

 

[bryan89]

hey man,
looks great!
who did the windshield job in post 8?
is that a factory trim or universal / aftermarket window trim?

if so, whats it from / where can i get it. i dont want to go back with the oem metal stuff on mine.

thanks.


ps..keep up the awesome work.

 

[dorton]

The wheel openings are the route I originally planned, then these quarters were just too good to pass up.


I had the new glass installed by a local company. As far as the moldings are concerned, they are new OEM parts.

 

[apeterson]

great build!!!