My 80 Series Restoration + LS Swap Project

Augustiron · Dec 17, 2025

Nice garage!

White Stripe · Dec 17, 2025

You could sell the old parts to recoup some costs for the v8 swap.

KubinB · Dec 26, 2025

Got some more work done, Started dressing the engine getting it prepared for fitting. all accessories are new and on

Cleaned up the engine bay even more and moved everything out of the way to prep for welding. literally went at it with a tooth brush to get every bit of grime off I could get to. Put a coat of POR15 on any rusty bits. Once the steering box brace kit and motor mounts are burned in, I'm going to paint everything again with POR15 top coat, should give it a nice even finish. Probably don't need to get that crazy... but eh why not

Next I figured I might as well get through the scary task of Time-Serting the Marks adapter... Man did I hate doing this. Luckily i got myself a drill press for xmas haha. The first adapter piece seemed like it was pretty strong billet aluminum vs the cast stuff on the second piece. Just going by the advice of the people before me to Time-Sert EVERY threaded hole in the adapter... so hopefully this wasn't a mistake or a waste

It cant be worse right?

Now the second part of the adapter is way softer, drilling the threads out took no effort and I was able to re-tap the holes with one hand... That was scary... Those holes all got 15mm Inserts since the next size up wouldn't give enough extra room in the blind holes... It is done though, really hoping this holds up those threads were way to easy to cut...

I am curious what Y'all think I should do about the bottom holes that mount to the rubber trans mount... It seems as though they may not be as critical to Time-Sert as they are just connecting to a rubber mount. I do have the Time-Sert kit to do them but man will it be difficult to get those holes tapped square. For now I decided not to, what do y'all think? Time-Sert or not to Time-Sert?

Next step I am planning on doing is cutting off the original mounts, welding in the steering box brace kit, reinstalling the steering box with my hydroboost conversion kit from Sweeting performance (figured why not...), assembling the new drive train and fitting it. Once the new drive train is in I'll be a little relieved. I can then start connecting everything and getting it working at my leisure, not sure if anyone else approaches projects like that haha.

KubinB · Jan 15, 2026

Got the motor mounts fully cut off and welds ground down to the frame, Rampt steering box brace kit welded in. Had to modify it to give space for the brake line mount. Ill put the triangle piece on after the motor is fitted to ensure it doesn't interfere. Everything fits and is good to go. It is officially ready for the new drivetrain to get fitted and mounted!

KubinB · Feb 22, 2026

Its been a while due to the first snag I hit in this swap process...

What happened was, put the torque converter in as much as it would go and tried fitting the trans to the motor. This resulted in some binding and eventually the mounting tab snapping off... That case sure is brittle barely put any torque on the bolts. This started a chain of events. First, I welded the mounting tab back on, no sweat, but then tried to figure out what happened. I realized the torque converter was supposed to go in further and what we ended up doing was stacking the torque converter against the pump gear... but how? It surely wouldn't go in anymore. Bought a new upgraded torque converter to rule that out since this is a freshly rebuilt trans, what's another 1k in this project? That converter still would not go all the way in and give the over 1" of clearance that is needed. Took the transmission back to the shop to check out the pump, lo and behold the pump gear they put in during the rebuild had a manufacturing defect where it wasn't machined correctly and did not provide proper tolerance for the torque converter to seat. The pump was inspected for any damage due to this but everything was good they said. Its over and done with now but that sucked, silver lining is I have a better torque converter for the build?

Anyways, yesterday was a big milestone. Finally got the new drivetrain fitted and mounts tacked in!

Pretty happy with how it fits! The shop floor isn't PERFECTLY level but the engine is level with respect to the floor, and frame. The 3.3 deg tilt is perfectly fine.

All in all I'd say this was a big accomplishment and a big step to getting her on the road again.

The next steps are to fully weld in the mounts and the last piece of the Rampt steering box brace kit. Seam seal and paint everything, reconnect all brake lines and install the new extended ones. Fully mount the steering box (The lines are removed because I am going Hydroboost) dress up the motor fully with sensors and other fragile components I didn't want to break during fitting. Then she can finally go back into her final resting place.

NeverFinis · Feb 22, 2026

Great work.

Your t-case lever uses the round hole, not the square hole. The square hole is for the transmission shift linkage.

KubinB · Feb 22, 2026

NeverFinis said:
Great work.

Your t-case lever uses the round hole, not the square hole. The square hole is for the transmission shift linkage.

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Haha yes I just realized that after I looked it up, I must have been really tired yesterday. Was hoping I could edit the post quick enough

Is your swap with a 4l60? my mounting point is definitely much further back than yours.

NeverFinis · Feb 22, 2026

KubinB said:
Haha yes I just realized that after I looked it up, I must have been really tired yesterday. Was hoping I could edit the post quick enough Is your swap with a 4l60? my mounting point is definitely much further back than yours.

View attachment 4090878

I have a 6L90e, which is 1.25" inches longer than a 6L80e. Not sure the difference to a 4L60e.

I also moved the motor 1.25" forward (1" forward would have been better), which is why my mount is forward of yours.

KubinB · Feb 22, 2026

NeverFinis said:
I have a 6L90e, which is 1.25" inches longer than a 6L80e. Not sure the difference to a 4L60e.

I also moved the motor 1.25" forward (1" forward would have been better), which is why my mount is forward of yours.

Ah ok that makes sense. Yea I moved up 3/4" looks like Ill have to make one hell of an adapter. I really appreciate the info!

KubinB · Mar 13, 2026

Little update, wanted to get this stuff out of the way before my vacation next week. Figured why not let the paint cure properly for 10 days while I cant work on it anyways.

Mounts burned in cleaned the ever loving crap out of everything, etched with metal prep cleaned again yadda yadda. Applied SprayMax 2K Epoxy Primer:

Seam sealed everything with 3M Urethane Seam Sealer 08367

And finally applied SprayMax 2K Top Coat

Drivetrain as dressed as it needs to be to finally go in!

Seam sealer tends to get everywhere...

Howardkats · Mar 22, 2026

KubinB said:
Sent the ECU to LT1Swap for base programming, requested that he change the output of the tach signal to match the Toyota's expected signal for the gauge:

12V Square Wave

Set Tach Output to Crank Floor.

Set Resolution High to 4.

Set Resolution Low to 4.

Objective: 3 Pulses Per Revolution for 6-cyl Toyota Tach.

Enjoying reading your build. I'm doing virtually the same swap in my '94 80. I'm 3 years into my project, hope to be done this summer. Your moving along at a pretty good pace. Are you running a P59 PCM? If so, I was told you can't program the PCM to work with the FJZ80 tach and need to get the Dakota Digital converter box - is that not true?

KubinB · Mar 24, 2026

Howardkats said:
Enjoying reading your build. I'm doing virtually the same swap in my '94 80. I'm 3 years into my project, hope to be done this summer. Your moving along at a pretty good pace. Are you running a P59 PCM? If so, I was told you can't program the PCM to work with the FJZ80 tach and need to get the Dakota Digital converter box - is that not true?

I have the "0411" with red and blue connectors. This one you can program the tach output.

Howardkats · Mar 28, 2026

KubinB said:
Using TCI Shifter Cable (P/N 840500).

Modifications:

Adjust shift arm to ~3.75" eye-to-eye (center of base hole to cable hole).

Shorten arm by ~½".

Trans side: Use OE 4L80E cable mount if it has one, or get GM 15013290.

Shifter side: Weld on custom bracket to hold cable.

Rod ends & hardware:

×2 McMaster-Carr 59915K43 (Stainless Steel 5/16-24 Right Hand Female Threaded Rod End).

McMaster-Carr 92390A220 (Stainless Steel 5/16" Diameter × 1-1/2" Usable Length Clevis Pins).

Secure with basic stainless M2.5 cotter pins.

Just so your aware if you havent got to the shifter setup of your build the Ball Joint rod end from McMaster has a 5/16-24 female thread and the threaded TCI cable end is 10-32 thread. If your using these parts you'll need a thread adapter. McMaster shows a ball joint end with 10/32 thread but only has a 3/16 ID for a clevis pin.

KubinB · Mar 30, 2026

Howardkats said:
Just so your aware if you havent got to the shifter setup of your build the Ball Joint rod end from McMaster has a 5/16-24 female thread and the threaded TCI cable end is 10-32 thread. If your using these parts you'll need a thread adapter. McMaster shows a ball joint end with 10/32 thread but only has a 3/16 ID for a clevis pin.

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View attachment 4110963

Yes I found this out when the first ones came in I returned them and got the correct size. I meant to update the post but must have forgotten, I will update now.