Build MTKID's LX on 40's @tiny_the_200

[MTKID]

Quick update. I’ve installed my front bumper that integrates some ideas I’ve had for quite a while.

It has two receivers and I have a synthetic receiver adapter that could be placed in either side for a recovery point, or both if you wanted to share the load to both frame rails. I realize this may not be easy to access if it was under mud or water, but my thoughts are I’d rather have the approach angle rather than two steel recovery points sticking forward of the rest of the bumper. If I’m approaching something that may require recovery, I can simply insert the adapter ahead of time or it may just be my winch line that is needed.

Speaking of the winch line, I removed the steel hook and have never liked the large heavy metal replacement hooks that stick out past the fairlead. I cut into this Factor 55 fairlead to create a groove and looped the end of the synthetic line around an inexpensive motorcycle track stand adapter.

Future things I hope to eventually get around to include are four tabs for the 5” of aluminum plate to fill in between the bottom of the bumper and the start of the EE Off-roading skidplate. I also have a square dimple die that I’m obsessed with using even though it says it’s only good for 1/8” and this face is 3/16”. I’m hoping I could possibly heat up the plate and still create what I want. Also would love to have my machinist make a right angle trianglular dimple die for two more holes. Lastly, I have some UHMW that I’d like to skin the face of the bumper with (in a small pattern I’ve already laid out) and have it run as far underneath as I have material for.

We’ll see if and when I get to the remainder of this bumper but at least it’s functional for now.

Btw, this is just rattle-canned with Steel-It matte grey.

 

[TeCKis300]

Guess who's back, back again? MTKID is back, tell a friend...

The OG that inspired me and probably many others.

Looking forward to new vids of this beast Micah!

 

[dudemancool1904]

Ok you popped up in my IG feed two days ago with this beautiful bumper and beastie boys two things I love dearly. Love it.

 

[tbisaacs]

I’ve never clicked a post notification so fast

 

[turbo8]

Quick update. I’ve installed my front bumper that integrates some ideas I’ve had for quite a while.
View attachment 4118568View attachment 4118569

It has two receivers and I have a synthetic receiver adapter that could be placed in either side for a recovery point, or both if you wanted to share the load to both frame rails. I realize this may not be easy to access if it was under mud or water, but my thoughts are I’d rather have the approach angle rather than two steel recovery points sticking forward of the rest of the bumper. If I’m approaching something that may require recovery, I can simply insert the adapter ahead of time or it may just be my winch line that is needed.

Speaking of the winch line, I removed the steel hook and have never liked the large heavy metal replacement hooks that stick out past the fairlead. I cut into this Factor 55 fairlead to create a groove and looped the end of the synthetic line around an inexpensive motorcycle track stand adapter.

Future things I hope to eventually get around to include four tabs for the 5” of aluminum plate to fill in between the bottom of the bumper and the start of the EE Off-roading skidplate. I also have a square dimple die that I’m obsessed with using even though it says it’s only good for 1/8” and this face is 3/16”. I’m hoping I could possibly heat up the plate and still create what I want. Also would love to have my machinist make a right angle triangle dimple die for two more holes. Lastly, I have some UHMW that I’d like to skin the face of the bumper with (in a small pattern I’ve already laid out) and have it run as far underneath as I have material for.

We’ll see if and when I get to the remainder of this bumper but at least it’s functional for now.

Btw, this is just rattle-canned with Steel-It matte grey.

If you get me dimensions, I can help you out with the transition plate. I might have to put the hexagonal pattern in it though..

 

[MTKID]

If you get me dimensions, I can help you out with the transition plate. I might have to put the hexagonal pattern in it though.. View attachment 4119123

It is simply 5” x 25” wide. Message me if you need any other details. Long-term, this will probably have UHMW skinning the bottom of it and the holes wouldn’t matter much. If you put the same hole spacing at the front as are at the edge of the previous piece I can make the tabs for the bumper side.

Thank you!

 

[MTKID]

Got my winch wired up. I drilled and tapped the top of the Slee battery hold down and cut down the 4 mounting posts and 2 terminal posts underneath this BlueSea cutoff switch to get it a little lower. Also removed a rectangle of material where their logo was to create more clearance under the terminal posts.

Had a good time on a quick overnight with one of my daughters…

 

[MTKID]

Got a few minor things taken care of…

1. TPMS sensors put into a container for pressurizing so my dash is happy, either on the trail or on the road…

2. Snowbound Customs 3rd gen 4Runner washer reservoir mounted just like I did for Jason (XFactor). I checked with him and I installed his two years ago and it’s still good, so I did the same for my LX. Drilled the low fluid opening on the right side, enlarged the two existing holes in the bottom and used body trim tape to stick the relay to the left side. Eliminating the headlight washer pump…

3. Removed the 2nd row 60% seat and placed my Iceco APL55 in there. I used some factory Lexus cargo D-rings I had in a bag, bolted to the front two seat bolts (after drilling the hole just a little larger to accommodate that 14mm bolt). Put some sticky backed foam at the corner where it could possibly scratch the trim at the edge of the door.

It will sit facing inside for an upcoming roadtrip and then get flipped around when we are on the trail. The seat that came out weighs 103lbs! So this 63lb fridge is a performance mod too… until I purchase a portable power/battery station. I currently have no power to the fridge, but I need to do some more research about how to do that. Too many options for 12v “overlanding” power. If anyone has the best practice for our 200’s, I’d like to see it. I have some ideas but not sure if I want to dive into them.

 

[clrussell]

The battery question comes down to two simple questions.

Budget - how much do you want to spend?

Simplicity - how in depth do you want to go?

Personally, I run a jackery that charges off the 110v outlet in the back when the cruiser is running (factory plug on a factory switch) the fridge runs off that with simple 12v plug. I have made multiple 10 day trips with zero issue. Although we run our rig a lot of the day driving. Solar if going to sit for much length of time.

Ecoflow/ jackery type product in the 1000w range will handle ALOT of fridge demands. Doubles as back up power at home/ camp for basic needs. Can be bought “cheap” on sale.

 

[grinchy]

Off brand LFP power thingy. Also using the back 120v as the charger. It can run my small fridge for more than 24 hours. Never a problem as long as ii drive every couple days.

 

[MTKID]

The battery question comes down to two simple questions.

Budget - how much do you want to spend?

Simplicity - how in depth do you want to go?

Personally, I run a jackery that charges off the 110v outlet in the back when the cruiser is running (factory plug on a factory switch) the fridge runs off that with simple 12v plug. I have made multiple 10 day trips with zero issue. Although we run our rig a lot of the day driving. Solar if going to sit for much length of time.

Ecoflow/ jackery type product in the 1000w range will handle ALOT of fridge demands. Doubles as back up power at home/ camp for basic needs. Can be bought “cheap” on sale.

Thank you for that simple explanation. My budget needs to stay minimal for the first iteration. I have other things that still need accomplished. Then I can go into my normal overthinking mode later on.

I was looking at both Ecoflow and Jackery, but their 2kWh versions were what I was planning on justifying. Prefer the smaller and lighter Jackery so far, and Project Farm gave it good reviews.

Thanks again

 

[clrussell]

Another very simple option is a secondary battery under the hood, and automatic charge relay, and power to your fridge.


It’s a deep deep rabbit hole. But I’m simple minded so I keep things simple. The portable power station that charges off the rear 110v outlet is the simplest solution that works very well.

 

[MTKID]

Another very simple option is a secondary battery under the hood, and automatic charge relay, and power to your fridge.


It’s a deep deep rabbit hole. But I’m simple minded so I keep things simple. The portable power station that charges off the rear 110v outlet is the simplest solution that works very well.

I was really trying not to add another battery to the front (I do still have my second battery and automatic charging relay from my 100 series). I really want to try to keep the weight down overall and keep the weight balance, front to rear, as similar to stock as possible, so I like the versatility of the portable power station. I had actually forgot about that ac outlet in the back. That should work perfect for the first trip.

Thanks again

 

[TeCKis300]

Yes, easiest, and possibly best answer for power, features, and flexibility is to get a portable power station. 2000Wh class is the ticket with the umph and reserve to get rid of propane devices. Allowing cooking, heated blanket for winter camping, etc. That more than buys its way on from my experience.

In that class, IMO the recently released Anker C2000 provides the most value in pricing and features. Jackery are a great default, but they're usually short on features. Like high power 140W USB-PD ports. A TT-30 amp plug can be a bonus and I also carry a super compact stick welder which this thing can power. I'm not a fan of the Jackery case design which can make tie downs options problematic. Project Farms review was solid but they also put the 2000Wh Jackery against 1000Wh class machines from other brands?

Team Anker here.

 

[MTKID]

Yes, easiest, and possibly best answer for power, features, and flexibility is to get a portable power station. 2000Wh class is the ticket with the umph and reserve to get rid of propane devices. Allowing cooking, heated blanket for winter camping, etc. That more than buys its way on from my experience.

In that class, IMO the recently released Anker C2000 provides the most value in pricing and features. Jackery are a great default, but they're usually short on features. Like high power 140W USB-PD ports. A TT-30 amp plug can be a bonus and I also carry a super compact stick welder which this thing can power. I'm not a fan of the Jackery case design which can make tie downs options problematic. Project Farms review was solid but they also put the 2000Wh Jackery against 1000Wh class machines from other brands?

Team Anker here.
View attachment 4136879

Cool. All good recommendations

What do you use the 140W USB-PD ports for and which portable welder do you carry?
Love that you’re not packed to the ceiling. I’m hoping to minimize stacking up to the ceiling.

 

[linuxgod]

I have an 800Wh Bluetti, but Ecoflow, Jackery, etc will all work. My Iceco uses about 400W/day, +/-100W depending on ambient and in-vehicle temp. So it'll go 1.5-2 days when fully charged. I run an inexpensive 12-24V converter that will put out 200W so if I'm driving that's fine. I did that because the fridge draws about 40W when running so if the battery is drained is can take I do have a solar panel I've yet to mount up as that would be better for camping in one spot, but for most folks around here just charging off the alternator when driving is probably sufficient.

Snag a refurb bluetti, ecoflow, etc off ebay which is refurbished and you'll save some $ plus you get a longer 2-year warranty.

 

[MTKID]

I have an 800Wh Bluetti, but Ecoflow, Jackery, etc will all work. My Iceco uses about 400W/day, +/-100W depending on ambient and in-vehicle temp. So it'll go 1.5-2 days when fully charged. I run an inexpensive 12-24V converter that will put out 200W so if I'm driving that's fine. I did that because the fridge draws about 40W when running so if the battery is drained is can take I do have a solar panel I've yet to mount up as that would be better for camping in one spot, but for most folks around here just charging off the alternator when driving is probably sufficient.

Snag a refurb bluetti, ecoflow, etc off ebay which is refurbished and you'll save some $ plus you get a longer 2-year warranty.

Thanks. I was hoping to be able to remove my fridge at the camp site and maybe keep it running for 2-3 days while we play around without the weight. I assume it’d take solar panels to keep it topped off. Not even sure if you’re allowed to leave a fridge, even a locked one, out in the open around Buck Island on the Rubicon. Im ok if it gets scratched up or dented by a bear, but I don’t plan on feeding them what’s inside.

I’ll take a look on eBay

 

[TeCKis300]

Cool. All good recommendations

What do you use the 140W USB-PD ports for and which portable welder do you carry?
Love that you’re not packed to the ceiling. I’m hoping to minimize stacking up to the ceiling.

I can't vouch for this as I've never used it. I can MIG and TIG pretty well, but have never tried stick. Figured cheap insurance and small enough. Would have come in super handy the one time a buddies trailer axle failed on the trail.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CNY32QPP?tag=ihco-20

 

[MTKID]

I can't vouch for this as I've never used it. I can MIG and TIG pretty well, but have never tried stick. Figured cheap insurance and small enough. Would have come in super handy the one time a buddies trailer axle failed on the trail.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CNY32QPP?tag=ihco-20

That is very inexpensive

 

[Taco Supremo]

I'd propose you build your own milkcrate portable powerstation. Will Prowse does a great video on it. Allows you to add as you need things and replace if they fail. Its tough to beat the economics and portability of the prebuilt but this was way more fun. I have 200AH LFP for my 100L dual zone amd charge it with a DC/DC off the start battery.