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- #21
X2. That's the price range I'm looking for. I've got a good shop that I can use, complete with lifts, and I can bend my own pipe.
MPG Question
- Thread starter Foreigner
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X2. That's the price range I'm looking for. I've got a good shop that I can use, complete with lifts, and I can bend my own pipe.
Try not going 70. The difference in fuel consumption between 65 and 70 is probably 3-4mpg. In my faux-hilux, it costs me 6mpg to drive 75 as opposed to 65 (consequently, I drive at 65 tops).
The other stuff here is about all you can do simply.
Wheel bearings? Does it have lockouts?
Dan
The other stuff here is about all you can do simply.
Wheel bearings? Does it have lockouts?
Dan
Dunno. Last time I did one was about 5 years ago, I think a V6 4Runner system was about $150 back them, it was one piece and really easy to install. Call the local dealer, see how much, NOT including the cat.
uhhh... I beg to differ. I think you mean than the 22rE. The fuel filter in the carb'd 22R is SUPER easy to change, right above the tank. What I always did was park the truck so it was pointing slightly uphill, then disconnect the fuel lines at the pump on the engine. Remove the cap off the tank. The lines and filter will gravity drain. Then it's just 2 hoes clamps, snap out, snap in.
Changing the fuel filter on the V6 is a HUGE pain! Easier if you remove the tranny crossmenber.
It's worth installing manual hubs on the front wheels, but it's unlikely you'll see an appreciable difference in gas maileage.
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- #24
Although I agree with the idea, that's not gonna happen.
Like I said, I'll probably have it for 2 years max, and it's just a DD and joyrider. I'm just interested in making it run well until I'm done with it. Yeah, I know. . .that takes all the fun out of it.Dan, as far as driving fast is concerned, I guess I'll have to weigh my priorities between driving fast and saving money. . .
I was getting about 14mpg in my '81 truck with a 22r and about 14-15 mpg in my '86 4rnner with a 22re. I wouldn't expect much more out of a 3.0, but I'm getting 17-18 in my v8, 4.5L Sequoia.
Although I agree with the idea, that's not gonna happen.
Dan, as far as driving fast is concerned, I guess I'll have to weigh my priorities between driving fast and saving money. . .
Spend the $50-75 and put on some Aisins... You'll be glad you did.
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- #29
Although I've been schooled in the theoretical advantages of manual hubs, I'm fuzzy on what they actually are. What are the real advantages?
How many bananas? How long of a job? Funky tools? Where to buy parts?
I gotta say. . .as much as I don't have the money to put into upgrading and enhancing this vehicle, I need as much wrenching experience as I can get, especially on 'yotas. I appreciate all your input.
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If your Runner has the ADD system with drive plates, then I think all you need is the locking hubs to do the swap.
The only hard part about the swap will be getting the cone washers out while removing the hubs/drive plate.
Here's a pic of the cone washers, they are under the lock washer, under the nut...
I'd say a 1-2 banana depending on if the cone washers were anti seized last time they went on.... If you want to rebuild the hubs before they go on... it's a nice way to spend an evening...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyo...ng-aisin-locking-hub-locking-hub-rebuild.html
The only hard part about the swap will be getting the cone washers out while removing the hubs/drive plate.
Here's a pic of the cone washers, they are under the lock washer, under the nut...
I'd say a 1-2 banana depending on if the cone washers were anti seized last time they went on.... If you want to rebuild the hubs before they go on... it's a nice way to spend an evening...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyo...ng-aisin-locking-hub-locking-hub-rebuild.html
If you've got the ADD hubs you really do just unbolt the hub plates and put the lockouts on there (at least if you're going Aisin--and you should).
The big benefit is that in 2WD with the hubs out, only the wheel and tire spin as you drive. With the fixed hub plate you have the half-axle and bits of the differential spinning. On my truck, it's probably good for 1mpg or a touch less on the highway. The biggest advantage though is that all of the IFS stuff will get less wear and tear because it won't be spinning as you drive. It makes the truck significantly smoother.
It's not a huge amount, but it's also around one mile per gallon in my experience.
Dan
one of my favorite mods
X2, and if you get a pin hole in your boot and haven't been off road in about 50,000 miles it will still have grease in it when you do
UNlock them for summer/ DD routine, no chance of needing 4wd, in winter lock them and it'll be just like having ADD.
and since the Toyotas dont have allot of power to begin with you can pull in 2LO if you want/ need to
If you've got the ADD hubs you really do just unbolt the hub plates and put the lockouts on there (at least if you're going Aisin--and you should).
The big benefit is that in 2WD with the hubs out, only the wheel and tire spin as you drive. With the fixed hub plate you have the half-axle and bits of the differential spinning. On my truck, it's probably good for 1mpg or a touch less on the highway. The biggest advantage though is that all of the IFS stuff will get less wear and tear because it won't be spinning as you drive. It makes the truck significantly smoother.
It's not a huge amount, but it's also around one mile per gallon in my experience.
Dan
X2, and if you get a pin hole in your boot and haven't been off road in about 50,000 miles it will still have grease in it when you do
UNlock them for summer/ DD routine, no chance of needing 4wd, in winter lock them and it'll be just like having ADD.
and since the Toyotas dont have allot of power to begin with you can pull in 2LO if you want/ need to
I have a set here, $50 plus shipping. From an '89 4Runner. PM me your address, I'll get you a shipping quote. Might take me a few days, it's too cold outside right now to be out there fighting with cone washers.
- Do a tune up first (plugs, cap, rotor) and check the condition of the plug wires. Replace 'em if needed.
- Run the engine at night, in the dark, hood up, and look for any
arcing.
- Set the timing to 15* BTC. That should help some.
-You can always check the O2 sensor.
A bad or not par sensor will hurt your mileage.
- Slow down
All should/could help in the mileage department.
Fred
- Run the engine at night, in the dark, hood up, and look for any
arcing.
- Set the timing to 15* BTC. That should help some.
-You can always check the O2 sensor.
A bad or not par sensor will hurt your mileage.
- Slow down
All should/could help in the mileage department.
Fred
- Thread starter
- #37
My mom tried to convince me of that when I first started driving. That was when Montana's daytime speed limit was "reasonable and prudent."
I know that it is definitely a factor, though, so I ran some numbers:
My latest trip was to my wife's sister's place, 230 miles away. If I drive 65 instead of 70, it will take an extra half hour to get there, but save me about $8.00 at my current gas price ($2.72), assuming a 3 mpg gain. So:
+$8.00
-1/2 hour extra in the car with
and 
-being passee rather than passer
-----------------------------
=not worth it.
And how is that going to save him any money or fuel ?
Please don't say that the mileage increase with manual hubs, because it's just not so.
I've run 'em both ways (ADD and manual hubs) with no difference at all.
Fred
It is so; you're not the only person who's run both and kept a close watch. It's not 50%, but it's there and valid.
Are you factoring in any speedo error in the 4Runner mileage calculations? Unless it came from the factory with 31s (which some did) the speedo will be off by up to 10%.
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- #40
I've run the speedo against the clock, and it seems to be on. It also seems to match the mileage on the road pretty well (I haven't actually checked that).