Here is what I used. At 6'2 I can only sleep in the back diagonally. I pull the pins and throw the bottom seat in my Yakima Roof box. I fold the back down. Slide the front seats forward and fill the footwell space with gear to bring it up level.
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- Thread starter
- #22
The quick release pins are a good solution - thanks.
Looked at mine and the factory hinge pins are not bolts but a round headed pin that has been upset or riveted on the other end. Looks like a die grinder job to remove those pins.
Looked at mine and the factory hinge pins are not bolts but a round headed pin that has been upset or riveted on the other end. Looks like a die grinder job to remove those pins.
I Drilled out the end. Started with a small bit and bumped up to a large bit.
- Thread starter
- #26
For what its worth, the main advantage to these is that two almost exactly fit between the wheel wells. Have not slept in it yet. Will probably throw in a couple of self inflating sleeping pads as well.
- Thread starter
- #27
The copilot finished the privacy curtains.
This setup is simple and basic - no insulation, no black-out feature. She used canvas painters drop cloths for the fabric - cheap and good stuff. Mounted "rope loops" to the roof in the four corners. Then strung 1/16" wire rope front to back, tensioned with turnbuckles. The front and rear curtains are on bungee cords strung between the corner rope loops.
She used curtain rings with a loop for the suspension wire and a clip which attaches to the fabric. Also sewed in some snaps to close up the corners where the different pieces meet.
The side curtains bunch up small and will be stowed at the 'C' pillar when not in use. She will make sleeves to cover the side curtains when stowed - this so they do not pick and hold trail dust.
Also removed the rear seat back. Looks like that space will hold at least three Scepter water cans.
Not perfect but we are both pleased with the result.
This setup is simple and basic - no insulation, no black-out feature. She used canvas painters drop cloths for the fabric - cheap and good stuff. Mounted "rope loops" to the roof in the four corners. Then strung 1/16" wire rope front to back, tensioned with turnbuckles. The front and rear curtains are on bungee cords strung between the corner rope loops.
She used curtain rings with a loop for the suspension wire and a clip which attaches to the fabric. Also sewed in some snaps to close up the corners where the different pieces meet.
The side curtains bunch up small and will be stowed at the 'C' pillar when not in use. She will make sleeves to cover the side curtains when stowed - this so they do not pick and hold trail dust.
Also removed the rear seat back. Looks like that space will hold at least three Scepter water cans.
Not perfect but we are both pleased with the result.
Sweet. 
- Thread starter
- #29
Removed the rear seat bottom. Used a Dremel with a cutoff wheel to remove the hinge pin rivet head. That adds a lot of room. The bonus is three Scepter war can fit right in the gap.
Also set up an old school redneck awning. It is a 6' x 8' canvas tarp. Tied it to the roof rack, supported by Cabelas adjustable tent poles. Made 1/4" manila guy ropes with sliding wood tensioners to stay with the old school set-up.
All that's left to do before a shakedown cruise is outfit the chuck box and set-up the new privy/shower shelter to be sure it is good to go.
Also set up an old school redneck awning. It is a 6' x 8' canvas tarp. Tied it to the roof rack, supported by Cabelas adjustable tent poles. Made 1/4" manila guy ropes with sliding wood tensioners to stay with the old school set-up.
All that's left to do before a shakedown cruise is outfit the chuck box and set-up the new privy/shower shelter to be sure it is good to go.
