Builds Moonshine - A Build Thread (19 Viewers)

[chicago]

Donno for sure if there is a way to OPEN it per se, but you should be able to work some lube down it at the openings where the cable comes out of the sleeve.
Folks have done something similar with sticking throttle cables.
I dont know if you have access, but I would think a needle with a 5cc syringe filled with some WD, you could probably locate that lube where you need it to work it around?
Check the ends where the cable comes out and see if there is a way to get some fluid in there.

Im a cheap bastard, so that is what I would do if I thought it were the cable bound.

did you mention that the cable worked before? I forget?
If so, then scrap that idea and suspect a kink if its binding.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Donno for sure if there is a way to OPEN it per se, but you should be able to work some lube down it at the openings where the cable comes out of the sleeve.
Folks have done something similar with sticking throttle cables.
I dont know if you have access, but I would think a needle with a 5cc syringe filled with some WD, you could probably locate that lube where you need it to work it around?
Check the ends where the cable comes out and see if there is a way to get some fluid in there.

Im a cheap bastard, so that is what I would do if I thought it were the cable bound.

did you mention that the cable worked before? I forget?
If so, then scrap that idea and suspect a kink if its binding.

Yeah it worked great before I started the conversion and I'm trying to rule out me forgetting something really dumb and obvious. When you did your soa did you make a bracket to extend the e-brake mount on the axle? I did because I thought you had to do that but I can't find where I read that now.

I'll try the cable lube thing and see if that helps tomorrow. I have hope now that I'm 100% sure the drum portion of the e-brake system is functional.

 

[chicago]

Yeah it worked great before I started the conversion and I'm trying to rule out me forgetting something really dumb and obvious. When you did your soa did you make a bracket to extend the e-brake mount on the axle? I did because I thought you had to do that but I can't find where I read that now.

I'll try the cable lube thing and see if that helps tomorrow. I have hope now that I'm 100% sure the drum portion of the e-brake system is functional.

I just went out and checked mine as I wasnt sure if I relocated that bracket that is bolted UP to the floor of the tub...I didnt relocate a thing except the LSPV which you dont have. didnt re make a bracket for the cable off of the housing either.
Did you put those springs back ON the bell crank?
That is weird that it would happen after the SOA.

 

[chicago]

Maybe try unbolting the cable from the bracket you made?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I just went out and checked mine as I wasnt sure if I relocated that bracket that is bolted UP to the floor of the tub...I didnt relocate a thing except the LSPV which you dont have. didnt re make a bracket for the cable off of the housing either.
Did you put those springs back ON the bell crank?
That is weird that it would happen after the SOA.

Maybe try unbolting the cable from the bracket you made?

the springs are back on the bellcranks. I had Kenny pull the Handle as I watched the linkage do it's thing, and it's definitely working as it should.

So you didn't make a bracket or change anything about the e-brake or how it mounts to the axle? Well s*** maybe that's my problem.

I'm going to feel really dumb if it doesn't work because of this stupid bracket I dreamed up.

 

[chicago]

the springs are back on the bellcranks. I had Kenny pull the Handle as I watched the linkage do it's thing, and it's definitely working as it should.

So you didn't make a bracket or change anything about the e-brake or how it mounts to the axle? Well s*** maybe that's my problem.

I'm going to feel really dumb if it doesn't work because of this stupid bracket I dreamed up.

Cant wait to hear what it is.
Im having some mysterious SUDDEN brake pedal travel after my rear axel break a few mos. back....
I hate Fing with brakes.

Chicago

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Cant wait to hear what it is.
Im having some mysterious SUDDEN brake pedal travel after my rear axel break a few mos. back....
I hate Fing with brakes.

Chicago

Me too. I wish the would just work. Now I understand why people are always switching to disk brakes in the rear.

When your axle came out, did the drum come out all the way past the shoes? Did one of the wheel cylinders pop apart from overextension?

 

[wengejor]

GLTH...just read through your thread....good stuff. I really like the pink duct tape....hahha.

I'm right there with you on the rust issues.

My cross member broke at the beginning of the year on my annual trip back home...I thought the shock was going to come through the body when I went over the train tracks.

I've had several brake lines fail.

This summer the power steering cooling lines (under radiator) failed due to corrosion when wheeling in WV...I installed an aftermarket cooler from napa.

As for the ebrake, I used some with lithium grease on all of the moving parts and it's been pretty good.

I'm getting geared up to start working on some of the body issues. I have some holes in my doors, rocker panels, wheel wells, and floor pan.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

GLTH...just read through your thread....good stuff. I really like the pink duct tape....hahha.

I'm right there with you on the rust issues.

My cross member broke at the beginning of the year on my annual trip back home...I thought the shock was going to come through the body when I went over the train tracks.

I've had several brake lines fail.

This summer the power steering cooling lines (under radiator) failed due to corrosion when wheeling in WV...I installed an aftermarket cooler from napa.

As for the ebrake, I used some with lithium grease on all of the moving parts and it's been pretty good.

I'm getting geared up to start working on some of the body issues. I have some holes in my doors, rocker panels, wheel wells, and floor pan.

thanks man!

Rust is pretty much my worst enemy right now. I never thought it was that bad, but now that the carpet is out, I can see all the places where the rust is starting to come through the bottom of the body. I'll figure out this winter if I want to repair this body or if it's too far gone. We will see.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

This is a nice build, so I am sorry to hear about all the rust.

You would not believe how pristine these trucks can be here in the Sacramento Valley. Not to brag, but my 60 was bought about 10 miles from my house, lived here for 25 years with no special care. Not a spec of rust. The paint is severely faded from the hot sun, but the metal is good. Not even surface rust on the frame.

FJ62-same story. It still has nice paint on the frame.

Bottom line-you need to move. Better trails out here too. Buy a clean body/frame like Valley Hybrids (Orangefj45) seems to have every other week, and swap in your good parts.


BTW-I was born in upstate NY and lived on the East Coast until I was 20. I remember cars more than 5 years old had rusted out rockers almost universally.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

This is a nice build, so I am sorry to hear about all the rust.

You would not believe how pristine these trucks can be here in the Sacramento Valley. Not to brag, but my 60 was bought about 10 miles from my house, lived here for 25 years with no special care. Not a spec of rust. The paint is severely faded from the hot sun, but the metal is good. Not even surface rust on the frame.

FJ62-same story. It still has nice paint on the frame.

Bottom line-you need to move. Better trails out here too. Buy a clean body/frame like Valley Hybrids (Orangefj45) seems to have every other week, and swap in your good parts.


BTW-I was born in upstate NY and lived on the East Coast until I was 20. I remember cars more than 5 years old had rusted out rockers almost universally.

Thanks for the compliments Drew. I have seen a bunch of these rigs from Socal that are pristine and it blows my mind. I don't understand how such an old vehicle can be so perfect, but I guess that's what you get for being in a drier climate.

As for buying a clean body / frame, lynchmob has one for sale that would be PERFECT for a swap ( white body ) but I don't know how to get it from there to here. It wouldn't take long at all to do, move the engine over one weekend, move the axles over the next. The problem is it costs so much to ship from there to here that it almost kills the deal.

I might move to the west coast after I graduate. I love Upstate NY but I think I could go for some year round warm weather. I could seriously get used to being able to wrench outside from March until December.

 

[TLC Norway]

dunno if it would work for u, but earlier i put an brake cable in a tub of lubes, soaked over the night, as good as new the next day... dig it?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

dunno if it would work for u, but earlier i put an brake cable in a tub of lubes, soaked over the night, as good as new the next day... dig it?

What did you soak it in? WD40 or something else?

 

[TLC Norway]

What did you soak it in? WD40 or something else?

yup, i got a tub with all sorts of WD40, 556, a dash of chain-lube and electronic cleaner for theese kind of things... i guess there is some owatrol in there too...

 

[GLTHFJ60]

So I took the truck to get inspected today and realized a couple of things. First of all, a duct-taped tail light lens will not pass, so I ordered a new one. Also, in NY you need shocks to pass, because they are an essential component of the suspension. I went and ordered some lower shock mounts from Sky Manufacturing which I found in Chicago's build thread. The e-brake still sticks but I don't think that will be a huge deal. Other than that, I think it'll be good.

 

[EOE_overland]

So what's going on buddy?? . Did they outlaw personal car repair in NY while you were gone? Get shocks on yet, or you still boucin' like a kid on a trampoline?
Hope to see you again sometime soon...

 

[GLTHFJ60]

So what's going on buddy?? . Did they outlaw personal car repair in NY while you were gone? Get shocks on yet, or you still boucin' like a kid on a trampoline?
Hope to see you again sometime soon...

Matt! How's it going man? I don't know of any events until next spring, what's on your cruiser calendar?

Moonshine has had no lovin since I got back north. I've been traveling to random places, having way too much fun, spending all my money, . Still isn't inspected, although I have the shock mounts now. I need to get over to Kevin's at some point to do that.

I only drive her about once a week now that I'm at school so she's taken a back burner.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Fall Update:
Went over to Kevin's this weekend to get some stuff done. I welded half of each shock mount onto my rear axle and Kevin welded the other half. My upside down TIG welds suck and his are absolutely incredible. I need to practice more! Got some pics at the bottom.

On top of that, got my dash grab bar installed and welded my windshield wiper back on. Screws fell out of it a couple of months ago on the highway, but I was able to recover the blade itself. Didn't have any screws, so Kevin welded it up for me.




SHOCKS!
I need shocks. I know that the Bilstein 5125's will work but I'd prefer not to spend that much money. Rancho 9k's don't seem to be any less expensive and I can no longer find the Doetsch Tech 8k's for sale anywhere on the internet. Anyone have some used shocks in the 10" travel range for sale?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

More shock research: Man-a-Fre has a Hecklethorn shock in the correct dimension for the right price - $25 less per shock than the Bilsteins. Anyone have experience with the Hecklethorn shocks?

9136 HECKETHORN HI-PERFORMANCE NITRO 9000 SHOCKS FJ55/60 E-01/90 FT 4 INCHES 15.39-26.29 $49

http://www.man-a-fre.com/parts_accessories/Heckethorn Hi-Performance Off-Road Shocks.htm

 

[Butt Ugly Chuck]

Did you have to make the grab bar mounting pads or did you find a source?

Butt