Mojave Suspension System Build Thread

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I checked caster at the knuckles and they are pushing 5-6* positive. I think this may be most of my problem. I am going to take out the 4* shims and go flat against the spring perches. If my calcs are right by removing the 4* I should still be a little positive which will be good. With the Tom Woods DS I don't need to worry about pointing the pinion flange more toward the transfercase. Flange should actually be close to horizontal. Like I said my freeway steering is tight no wander but way to sensitive! I know it's not the springs, lies between the caster angle and or HA ram. I don't think the sag pump has any flow issues but I always can drill out the restrictor to see if that helps slow it down a little. Keep you all posted.
 
Oh YEA! Now Were Talking!

After careful review and test driving, I determined that 4* camber shims on the front axel are not needed for the Mojave Suspension:clap: Dave was right, after all he was involved with the design of the system:doh: The suspension when installed with the SR, which it really was designed to work with for best performance, does not rotate the front axel. After removing the 4* shims the pinion flange sat more horizontal with just a slight upward angle, maybe 1/2-1*. Since I do not have to worry about the front DS binding, it's good to 40* I just re-installed the spring packs back on the stock perches. Took it out for a drive and WOW:clap::D:hillbilly: No wander, no super sensitive twitchy feeling and no bump steer. Steering is lighter yet no play. The stability was making me feel more confident I then ran her up to 70mph changing lanes, taking the curves and bumps:steer::clap: So then ran the 60 up to 75-80 still tight not twitchy VERY STABILE! Next took her through some high speed curves at about 60-65mph, really to fast, but figured by now lets see what she can do:steer::bounce::D. NICE DAVE!:beer::cheers: HA ram works as it should, no issues just combined with waaaaay to much + camber made for a super twitchy truck! Would be ok for an indy car but not a 5000lb tractor! So at least for my truck and this suspension system I would NOT use any shims on the front end unless you are sure there are issues! Now I can go back to concentrating on wheels and tires and the rear 3rd member ;p:wrench: Stay tuned!!!:cheers:
 
No not yet. Kinda can't decide? To much info I guess. I'm leaning toward 16" Marsh Racing Wheels because I can get them in any backset. Thinking on running 16"x8" with 2" BS (black stealies). Was thinking also 17" but not sure. (Don't want it to look goofy). Then run something like 255/85R16. Just finished install of 4.11 in front diff and just took my rear diff in today to have rebuilt with Toyota OEM 4.10 with an Aussie, so 33" tires is what I want nothing larger because I will loose the articulation I built the suspension for. Dave of 4+ is running 33's and still lowered bumps due to rubbing! Prolly nothing wider than 10.50/ 11.00" for the same reasons. I'm open to suggestions though. I've looked at everything from M-55's, Toyo M/T's, BFG AT and MT'S. Trying to split it down the middle need a tire that does road and trials. My rig is more like a expedition truck on steriods!!! I know I have to give a little on both sooooooooooo here I am? I think I've read every friggn' thread on tires though:)
 
THX a lot BOMAR! :) Very interesting read. I see Kurt's comments! I did not even think about Maxxis? I run their tires on my MT bike! D'oh. Anywho, great links and I think you might have helped me narrow my choices. I have been leaning toward 25585R16's since I like the tall narrow look on the 60's and that tire size is a hair over 33" CHEERS!
 
rear tire clearance

its a shame you dont run a full floater rear axle as its so easy to just change the rear hubs to those off an 80 series cruiser. it gives you about 35mm wider stance per side and if you get and early model one that runs drum brakes everything bolts up, axles, brakes the works. i did it on one of my 70 series cruisers. it worked great
 
I considered a full float rear but don't see any advantage. I actually hear more problems with full float rears than I do SF. Considering my SF has operated flawlessly for 23 years I see no reason to change now. I am aware of the technical reasons FF are said to be better but experience has shown me otherwise;) Cheers!
 
Bandicoot said:
I considered a full float rear but don't see any advantage. I actually hear more problems with full float rears than I do SF. Considering my SF has operated flawlessly for 23 years I see no reason to change now. I am aware of the technical reasons FF are said to be better but experience has shown me otherwise;) Cheers!
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Weight carrying capacity aside, the advantage is safety. When you're wheeling with a SF rear axle and it snaps for whatever reason, what happens? The shaft slides out of the housing, along with the wheel, at any time. There is nothing holding it in at that point. With a FF rear, you snap a rear shaft, or blow a rear diff for some reason, you simply loose the ability to move, nothing else. Last weekend I blew a rear shaft in my FF axle and I was able to get recovered down the obstacle I was on, as well as coast down to camp, without a concern that one of my tires was going to come off.

The FF is well worth it for that fact alone in my mind.
 
I completely understand. And that's some of my point. Seems FF users in hard wheeling situations just exchange broken hub studs, spindles and still axels! You need that safety factor of the wheel not coming out. However, the type of wheeling I do in my 60 and the fact I'm not SOA with 35"+ tires trying to rock crawl in a 60 my chances of overloading the mechanicals are limited. Plus at this point, a set of Poly axels are a cheaper route than converting to FF. Besides when the going gets really tough I use my 40!:) What I'm waiting for is Dave to get a set of Mojave Springs for the 40's Cheers!
 
Update

Got my 80 series 4.10 R&P from Carlos at Just Diffs:clap:THX:cheers: Also got some new fittings for the HA system from PCS, I have a few items I don't like and will change and are easy fixes. Trying to get the :censor:wheel issue resolved:mad: I think I'm on the track though. The wheel center is the main concern on 60's if it's going to hit calipers, after that you can worry about BS. There are tons of wheels with the right BS! Looks like MRW is still a go.I called this AM MRW was not 100% will work but said they would mock up and tack weld one wheel with the BS I want to use as tester. If no work just send back only out the shipping $'s:clap: Otherwise, all is good. Wagon is settling in and road manners of the suspension is great! Can't wait to get her off road which Dave and others have been hounding me to do:hillbilly: Once I get the rear diff rebuilt and the rear SF axel rebuilt then I can run the system:cheers: Oh by the way for those looking for R&P sets have patients! Seems there is a system (nation) wide shortage of gear sets?
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Rear Diff Completed :)

Got my rear 3rd member back from Unitrax today:clap: OEM 80 series 4.10 R&P installed along with the Aussie locker test fitted and solid pinion spacer:bounce: Just waiting for my rear axel rebuild kit and new brake shoes to arrive that I bought from Kurt:D Wanted to put in some Poly shafts in while I was in there but there is none in stock and about a month wait time:mad: I was very lightly thinking of doing a FF but just can't pull the trigger on it. SOR only has two right now and I would have to look at to see if I can gauge the condition, spindle condition and other wear parts are a concern especially since I can't see them, will see:hhmm: When I get the new bearings and gaskets for SF set up on Friday may just go ahead and install as is and see what happens. SF has been able to get me down the road the last 23 yrs I suspect will do another 23:steer: :cheers:
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I know Dave you have been patient:) This weekend I will put the rear 4.10 3rd member in so I can run the 33' tires. Once in then I can test her out. Right now got 3.73 in rear and 4.11 up front! kinda hard to wheel it in that configuration :) May take her out to Johnson Valley for a close 4x trip.
 
Mebbe the mojave springs are the bees knees, and I don't doubt they are. But after watching this thread and comparing it to my bolt in OME install...well, just let me say I don't have the skillz to do the mojave. Granted, it looks like Bandicoot did additional mods "while he was in there", but it appears to my untrained eye that some of them were necessary, and are just out of my league.
 
In all fairness to Dave and MAF, my build in it's entirety is not a fair analysis of how easy or not the suspension lift is to install. After looking back now, installing the springs and SR was the easiest part! I think if you install as the kit is made up most of the issues I ran into prolly will not show. I chose to do things I always wanted to do and to experiment with my rig. Most of what I have done is waaaaay overkill but gives me much pleasure and this project has been a needed distraction to otherwise busy life I have. But the big difference at this point is the Mojave springs and SR package is capable of so much more that the buyer has many options to choose as far as performance of the system. Now Dave and Steve may disagree but IMHO if you are looking for a simple plug & play system you may want to look at other systems. You have to be realistic about your skills to deal with all the unexpected issues that show up and ALL systems have issues! Just look at all the threads of this board! The real advise I can offer is be realistic with your skills (and it's ok to learn as you go), be realistic with the intended usage of your rig. Just don't slam it together, most of these rigs now matter how cared for are older and need attention to most mechanical systems. Expect to pay more $'s than you budgeted, s*** always happens and most of all have FUN. If I had to do this all over again? HELL YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Parts from Kurt :)

Down close to the end of this project, Yea Right! Anyway, got my rear axel rebuild kit w/ brake shoes from Cruiser Outfitters:clap: Hopefully can get it torn down and put back together this weekend. Depends on my Project Manager:D All I need to do is tear down the rear SF axel, install the 4.10 3rd and install the new bearings, seals, brakes and drive it! :steer: All that's left after that is tires and maybe wheels. Trying not to buy new wheels, the Uniques I have work just with 4" BS BUT 10.50's hit the shock bodies at full stuff:mad: If I use 255-85r16 may just get by 1/4" or so with existing wheels.:confused: I know Dave wants me to get my ass moving on the tires and wheel the damn thing off road and report SOON !:D We need to help lessen the love affair most have with OME:flipoff2: Did go tire shopping for Maxxis Bighorns MT 762's most did not have in stock and non in warehouses:mad:. Everyone wants to sell BFG MT's :bang: If it was not for their bad road manners I would just buy Interco Narrow SS 34-9.50's and put them on my stock 60 wheels!:hhmm: :cheers:
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Bandi - man, she's lookin' great! ...

When are you planning the JV trip ?

I've got the OME CS00'5 (extra heavy), 4:11s and BFG 33's so it's about as close to the OME equivalent of your setup you can get, minus, of course, the SR and other super goodies !

Be an interesting comparison since you have the 2F also...
 
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