Missing front axle drain plug. Whats all going to need to be replaced?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I don't share the same sentiment as some of the others... I would heavily recommend a new diff carrier. I think that you may be in luck as the complete assembly (As of recently) was still available from the dealer. Check 41110-60370 as it is a brand new front locking differential assembly including the locking actuator (Not 100% on that).

If those case hardened gears IE: ring and pinion plus spider gears, have been run with zero lubrication, there is no way those gears will last. I can guarentee even though you haven't put many miles on the truck, the damage is done and your gears are scored. They are either going to make noise when fully rebuilt or not, but they will no way retain their hardness and will likely lead to constant backlash problems and produce metal shavings until their untimely demise. If it was a trail buggy i'd say throw bearings in it and pin it.

Because everything has been run dry the gears and bearings have created much more heat than designed, which means everything has expanded that heat into the carrier housing. You have already possibly spun a carrier bearing in the diff even with the light driving. Long story short you WILL NOT get a good pattern and you WILL NOT get any sort of good life expectancy out of the diff from the assembly being run dry. I would not accept a rebuild if it were me. Because if they throw new gears in the carrier it may actually last a while (Long enough for them to walk away from their mistake) but not last many many thousands of miles as you will have constant metal being produced from things not running true inside the diff. The reason East coast gives you explicit instructions when you buy a set of gears from them is not just because it's good practice, it's because new gear sets create a lot of extra heat as they "Bed" themselves together creating a perfect surface hardness and toast the gear oil and produce break in shavings that must be changed out after the first 500 miles. That surface hardness is what makes those gears last the life of the vehicle under normal circumstances.
 
^^^This^^^. A new front diff assembly is the better route otherwise you may be chasing whines and howls until you decide to pull it a second time on your dime.
 
Awful and difficult to understand how this happened. A double check with 2 different pairs of eyes is fast and easy. Sorry this happened and i hope it gets resolved quickly and for free of course.
 
So what is the advantage of a new (I assume used "new" it sounds like) 3rd vs rebuilding the existing one?
There is less of a chance of gears being damaged on a used third, It can be rebuilt cheaper.

A new third is preferred and in general costs less which is why dealerships tend to toss bad 3rds and replace them if they can get a new or rebuilt unit. The parts don't cost too much for rebuilds....but it kills you on man hours to tear down, clean, inspect, assemble, adjust and reinstall. It's the reason why most shops and dealerships say something needs replaced and not something needs rebuilt.
 
Personally, I would insist on a new oem third. It being completely dry, everything got hot. This is guaranteed. Who knows what damage all that heat has done. Hope everything turns out okay. Keep us posted.
 
So, you dealing with the shop, or???
Yes - Just finalized what all they are doing and its getting finished today. The shop owned their mistake. Didn't try to make excuses and pretty much accepted when I laid into them about this. I've had other shops try to blame me for similar stupid mistakes they made and not want to make it right at all - even to the point of screaming and yelling in my face. I don't feel like I had to fight them for anything. While I didn't get a brand new 3rd, I feel the resolution was fair and they were kind, apologetic, and wanted to make it right and then some. I feel they were genuinely horrified by what happened and what could have happened had it gone real wrong while my kid was driving.

1) Used 3rd from the shop manager's LC. He had replaced it with a built Eaton 3rd so he had it on hand and it has significantly less miles than mine. He had replaced the seal and inspected it. There was no way he was putting a brand new 3rd in. If this was some random 3rd he knew nothing about I would have insisted it be rebuilt or the new one. I have to trust he is telling me the truth - HOWEVER, he was willing to specifically add in writing that any issues with the 3rd they will cover under warranty.

2) There were a couple minor but stupid things that got missed during the motor install (some leaking trans cooler and PS hoses), would have originally cost me a few hundred in parts - they have addressed and fixed free.

3) Rear Axle seal leaks had been noted but not clarified it if they were getting fixed previously. They are now doing them basically at cost.

For reference, the original work was to install new remanufactured engine, in the process replace almost everything that is attached to the motor or difficult to access when the motor is out: new wiring harness, PHH delete, replaced injectors, new alt, new water pump, new PS pump, the list goes on for pages. The axle work was ancillary and honestly, I thought I don't want to complicate the job by adding work - but in the end I wanted to get everything done so why not while it waited for engine parts. Shouldn't have been an issue.

In the end I can't say I'm "Happy" about any of it, but I do feel like it is resolved and resolved in my favor.
 
I still think we need to know the shop.
They made you whole again that’s makes them a good shop.
 
Seems like a happy ending to a completely avoidable mess up. It means a lot that they would own up and right this wrong on their own dime. Something that isn’t common at all in the repair world.
 
So Power Steering Res was still leaking (palm sized spot within 20 min of stopping). This was one of the original issues, and an issue "addressed" when it went back for the front axle. Easily fixed with a real hose clamp on the bottom of the res low pressure hose. Was still original hoses/clamp.

Noticed the EVAP hoses under the intake Manifold are still 30 years old (all the small lines appear to have been replaced thankfully). Hopefully they can be replaced without removing the manifold if its ever needed?

Front Locker does not engage. Weaved back and forth a bunch, did it rolling backwards, forwards, etc and nothing from the front. It always engaged within ~10 feet before :/ With key on in low with CDL locked, I can hear the motor spinning. Will try to coerce the shaft in the morning (that's what she said).
 
So Power Steering Res was still leaking (palm sized spot within 20 min of stopping). This was one of the original issues, and an issue "addressed" when it went back for the front axle. Easily fixed with a real hose clamp on the bottom of the res low pressure hose. Was still original hoses/clamp.

Noticed the EVAP hoses under the intake Manifold are still 30 years old (all the small lines appear to have been replaced thankfully). Hopefully they can be replaced without removing the manifold if its ever needed?

Front Locker does not engage. Weaved back and forth a bunch, did it rolling backwards, forwards, etc and nothing from the front. It always engaged within ~10 feet before :/ With key on in low with CDL locked, I can hear the motor spinning. Will try to coerce the shaft in the morning (that's what she said).
Easiest way I’ve found to test the lockers on the 80 and it be a definitive replicable pass or fail is to put vehicle in low and lock center diff. Then lift both axles or the one you want to test. Turn licker dial and get out and grab a tire on the axle. Turn tire 10ish degrees and you should immediately hear a click and the tire not move as that axle is locked now.

With the tires being off of the ground and barely spinning on side, you have the easiest way to encourage the diff lock actuator arm to quickly move and spline both shafts directly together.

If this doesn’t immediately lock when you turn the tire, it won’t ever lock for you. There is an issue.
 
Easiest way I’ve found to test the lockers on the 80 and it be a definitive replicable pass or fail is to put vehicle in low and lock center diff. Then lift both axles or the one you want to test. Turn licker dial and get out and grab a tire on the axle. Turn tire 10ish degrees and you should immediately hear a click and the tire not move as that axle is locked now.

With the tires being off of the ground and barely spinning on side, you have the easiest way to encourage the diff lock actuator arm to quickly move and spline both shafts directly together.

If this doesn’t immediately lock when you turn the tire, it won’t ever lock for you. There is an issue.
This is definitely the most definitive way to test the locker.

If this is the way it came back from the shop after they replaced the front axle I would definitely be disappointed.
They should’ve tested the locker before it left the shop.
If they’re that sloppy, then it could be as easy as they didn’t get the wires hooked up.
I’m assuming your locker worked correctly before this incident.
If so, and the replacement actuator is the issue (most likely) Then it could simply be swapped out for yours.

No way it should’ve came back from the shop with power steering fluid leaking on the ground like that shame on them.

You’ve given them every chance to make this right and they haven’t!

Time to name that shop!!
 
You will find the name of the shop all over mud. I do t want them to stop working with me because I have named them.

Bought Jack stands and a jack at HF today. All 4 up, engine off, 4lo, CDL locked. Rear locks and unlocks with a solid CLUNK. Dash light solid. This is exactly what the front did before, even the day it grenaded as I had gone to Prairie City to let it cool for an hour (recommended break-in procedure) during a break-in heat cycle and tested it that day.

Today with all four off the ground, the front two tires are indeed connected (all 4 for that matter), but I hear nothing when it locks and unlocks. Front locker dash light stays blinking.

Is it not completely locking? Or is it not registering it's locked?

Also, what is this plug at the locker motor(edit: resolved, see next post)? I have no room to look around in there and I'm pretty sure I have a torn rotor cuff so reaching around for all this stuff has been a joy.

IMG20240608151418.jpg
 
Last edited:
Zoomed in the picture, realized it probably clips in to that gray thing behind it.. luckily my left shoulder is ok lol and clipped it in from the front. Both registering locked now. Will test at PC tomorrow. Sure didn't feel locked on the gravel road Friday but only one way to know for sure.
 
Last edited:
Name the shop, if I were you I would never deal with them again, since they've made things "right". Do us on 'Mud the service of letting us know where not to go.

A bit surprising they do all this work, especially as a redo for their f-up, and don't even take it out to the parking lot to see if it will lock up and notice they left something unplugged. That's called sloppy work. I've heard of shops and contractors screwing stuff up. Then the owner comes in, lays down the hammer, and everything gets done right and he personally checks it. Sounds like they still don't give an F.
 
Name the shop, if I were you I would never deal with them again, since they've made things "right". Do us on 'Mud the service of letting us know where not to go.

A bit surprising they do all this work, especially as a redo for their f-up, and don't even take it out to the parking lot to see if it will lock up and notice they left something unplugged. That's called sloppy work. I've heard of shops and contractors screwing stuff up. Then the owner comes in, lays down the hammer, and everything gets done right and he personally checks it. Sounds like they still don't give an F.

**** it. I'm so tired of these idiots.

YOTA1 Performance in Riverbank Ca are the idiots with ZERO quality control. I spent tens of thousands on this bs workmanship knowing I was paying 30% more for the "experts."
 
**** it. I'm so tired of these idiots.

YOTA1 Performance in Riverbank Ca are the idiots with ZERO quality control. I spent tens of thousands on this bs workmanship knowing I was paying 30% more for the "experts."
I’m saying this with all respect, for that money you could have bought tools and parts and done the work yourself.
 
Back
Top Bottom