Melted relay block help

[Old Nick]

Oh buddy I’m just getting started, some people think paying 10-20k on a 80 series is preposterous but if it’s in good condition it’ll save you in the long run. I bought mine for 1000$ I’d have to do the math but I’m closing in on 5k excluding the 1000$ entree fee. If you count the 30-40 hours of my skilled labor too I’d say I’m probably in your same boat. If I had to pay 150$ a hour to get someone to work on my rig I’d be living in it. I may be wrong about the 30-40 hours it may be more I’ve lost track. I also probably have 1k in parts not installed and have no lift or armor… not a pissing contest just how it’s shaking out.

I'm feeling you on this. We bought a clapped out 80 (rusty and mechanically a mess) because it was local, cheap and triple locked. I've stopped adding up the money and time that I've dumped into it. Saving one of these rigs from the scrap heap has brought me a lot of joy, but I don't think that I will ever buy a truck in such poor condition again.

But, it's running and driving great now... rust cut out and new steal welded in... so, I guess there's that... lol.

 

[atm0706]

I made some good progress today. I realized that the probes on my multimeter weren’t sharp enough to reach inside the ecu connector and actually make contact with the pins. I sharpened them today and retested the wires from the o2 sensor connector back to the pins on the ecu connectors for continuity, resistance, and shorts. Everything had continuity back to the ecu, and the +b wire can continuity back to the efi main relay. Resistance also measured at 0.2Ω after I subtracted the 0.3Ω resistance of my multimeter.

I installed a fuse holder between the two wires in the fuse block that had previously melted the efi fuse. I have a new fuse box, but I want to test everything before I install that in case there’s another short somewhere I haven’t tested yet. Then I’ll install it if everything works out.

I also took the opportunity to change the pesky heater hose, blocked off the throttle body coolant nipples on the block and water pump. Also deleted the rear heater hoses and simplified the hoses with a gates #19161 hose I found in another post.

Changed the fuel filter… I waited to connect the hardline to the fuel rail until after I’d reinstalled the lower intake manifold and mounted it. It was still difficult because someone had bent the hardline previously and had the fuel filter completely dangling there. It was tough getting the hardline to line up after getting the new filter installed and mounted where it’s supposed to go.

And finally, I replaced all the seals for the injectors and reinstalled the fuel rail and lower intake manifold.

Tomorrow I’m going to try and get everything else back together so I can finally try to start it. I really hope it works. This has been a lot of work I never expected to have to do before I ever even got to drive this thing…

 

[atm0706]

Also, here is the location where the o2 wires all meet back up with the main harness, the oem pesky heater hose is at the top right for reference. I spliced in new wires, ran it all in split loom, and then tesa taped it. I rerouted them back up the firewall near the pesky heater hose, across the main harness loom at the top of the firewall, down the passenger side transmission tunnel, and down to the o2 connector.

 

[Old Nick]

Also, here is the location where the o2 wires all meet back up with the main harness, the oem pesky heater hose is at the top right for reference. I spliced in new wires, ran it all in split loom, and then tesa taped it. I rerouted them back up the firewall near the pesky heater hose, across the main harness loom at the top of the firewall, down the passenger side transmission tunnel, and down to the o2 connector.
View attachment 4242435

View attachment 4242438View attachment 4242447

Man, you're doing herculean work work on that 80. Reading about the state of the fuel hard lines and the dangling fuel filter... dang, the p/o really half-assed a lot of stuff. Now, at least you'll know that things have been put right.

Fingers crossed for you that she fires right up on the first crank.

 

[atm0706]

Man, you're doing herculean work work on that 80. Reading about the state of the fuel hard lines and the dangling fuel filter... dang, the p/o really half-assed a lot of stuff. Now, at least you'll know that things have been put right.

Fingers crossed for you that she fires right up on the first crank.

Yeah just about everywhere I look, something makes me go “wtf?!”. I sure hope it fires right up after all this. Hopefully I’ll know in a day or two. It’s parked outside and it’s raining so I’m not sure how much I’ll be able to do today

 

[Old Nick]

Yeah just about everywhere I look, something makes me go “wtf?!”. I sure hope it fires right up after all this. Hopefully I’ll know in a day or two. It’s parked outside and it’s raining so I’m not sure how much I’ll be able to do today

Fingers crossed for you...

And as soon as I dared to write that our 80 was sorted... today, I got the dreaded tinkling/clanking from the power steering pump gear... the failing steering gear likely shed some metal bits and pieces into the system... it never ends... so, that unexpected pita is not on the agenda... lol

 

[atm0706]

Fingers crossed for you...

And as soon as I dared to write that our 80 was sorted... today, I got the dreaded tinkling/clanking from the power steering pump gear... the failing steering gear likely shed some metal bits and pieces into the system... it never ends... so, that unexpected pita is not on the agenda... lol

Dang what a bummer!! Hopefully the damage is t too bad and it’s an easy fix.

I got everything buttoned back up today aside from getting all the bolts back in that clamp the upper and lower intake manifolds together. I need a helper for that because the only way it seems you can do it is from under the truck with 2 feet of ratchet extensions lol.

Also had more problems too… I finished removing the pair system today, and all four studs on the exhaust manifold snapped off inside. No idea how I’m going to solve this one… I have new studs, nuts, and block off plates ready to go. But I can’t get these broken studs out. There’s really no room to drill them out. I’ll probably struggle for a few hours trying again tomorrow. This is one of those times when it’d be really nice to have a mig welder

 

[Old Nick]

Dang what a bummer!! Hopefully the damage is t too bad and it’s an easy fix.

I got everything buttoned back up today aside from getting all the bolts back in that clamp the upper and lower intake manifolds together. I need a helper for that because the only way it seems you can do it is from under the truck with 2 feet of ratchet extensions lol.

Also had more problems too… I finished removing the pair system today, and all four studs on the exhaust manifold snapped off inside. No idea how I’m going to solve this one… I have new studs, nuts, and block off plates ready to go. But I can’t get these broken studs out. There’s really no room to drill them out. I’ll probably struggle for a few hours trying again tomorrow. This is one of those times when it’d be really nice to have a mig welder

Oh, man, that is not good. Have you got a bud with a welder who could bring it to your place to get a couple of nuts welded on to the studs? Did they break off level with the head, or is there still some threading exposed? Either way, that sucks, man. Don't lose patience... even though your rig is tempting you to.

 

[atm0706]

Oh, man, that is not good. Have you got a bud with a welder who could bring it to your place to get a couple of nuts welded on to the studs? Did they break off level with the head, or is there still some threading exposed? Either way, that sucks, man. Don't lose patience... even though your rig is tempting you to.

One of the studs was already broken off flush from the previous owner. The other three the nuts were insanely rusted and just stripped as soon as I tried to remove them. I even soaked them in penetrating oil for a few days before trying, and used a torch. Ended up having to cut them off. Had a bit of the studs left after this and used a stud extractor, and that’s when they sheared off flush.

No friends nearby, just moved a couple months ago. I actually do have a tig welding machine, but I have never used it before and don’t have argon or a bottle. But I realized it can stick weld and I don’t need gas for that. So I’m going to give it a whirl lol. I have nothing to lose. I’d like to fix it though without having to take anything else off because the entire exhaust system needs to be replaced if I do that.

 

[ajax1]

If you don’t want to drill them out, I’d just buy used manifold, 95 and up will work and no block offs needed. On my 94 I move the o2s ro that spot

 

[atm0706]

If you don’t want to drill them out, I’d just buy used manifold, 95 and up will work and no block offs needed. On my 94 I move the o2s ro that spot

Yeah I plan to move my o2 sensors there as well when I replace them. I don’t want to take the manifolds off yet though because I’ll have to replace the studs in the head as well. They’re extremely rusty. And there’s other previous owner f u c k e r y going on with the exhaust, so I don’t want to remove any of it until I’m ready to just replace all of it.

 

[CharlieS]

Weld some nuts to the studs that snapped.

 

[atm0706]

Weld some nuts to the studs that snapped.

That’s what plan to try. I’m only set up for stick welding currently though. But I’m still going to try

 

[atm0706]

I got it started today, finally.

It ran really rough though and had a check engine light. I didn’t check the code yet, but I had a feeling it was related to the airflow meter. I accidentally plugged oil the screws out and pulled out the plug when I was taking the intake off originally thinking it was how it came out. Big mistake. All the solder came off the pads as well, so I can’t resolder it. I tried to use jumper wires back to the three pins, but the existing silver/solder/whatever on the traces just kept flaking off as soon as any pressure was applied to the soldered wires. It was also not the first time this happened I’m sure because the cap was smeared with silicone like it had been taken apart before.

I found an eBay seller selling replacement PCBs for the 93-94 Land Cruiser air flow meter. I’m not sure if I want to try that or just buy a replacement airflow meter. This sucks. *sigh*

 

[atm0706]

I got it started today, finally.

It ran really rough though and had a check engine light. I didn’t check the code yet, but I had a feeling it was related to the airflow meter. I accidentally pulled out the plug when I was taking the intake off originally thinking it was how it came out. Big mistake. All the solder came off the pads as well, so I can’t resolder it. I tried to use jumper wires back to the three pins, but it the existing silver/solder/whatever on the traces just kept flaking off as soon as any pressure was applied to the solder wires. It was also not the first time this happened I’m sure because the cap was smeared with silicone like it had been taken apart before.

I found an eBay seller selling replacement PCBs for the 93-94 Land Cruiser air flow meter. I’m not sure if I want to try that or just buy a replacement airflow meter. This sucks. *sigh*

Here’s a couple pictures. Has anyone else tried one of those replacement PCBs?

 

[atm0706]

I know it’s not ideal, but I ordered a Chinese knockoff airflow meter on Amazon. It’s supposed to be a replacement for 22250-66010 for the 93-94. I usually don’t replace oem sensor and important parts like this with aftermarket crap, but it was $90 and will be delivered tomorrow (probably after dark) so I’ll hopefully be able to get it installed on Thursday and see if that fixes the super rough idle. If not, will order one of those PCBs and install it in the oem air flow meter.

Tomorrow I’m going to try and get the pair pipe studs removed from the manifold and fill it with coolant so it’s ready to go when the new air flow meter arrives.

 

[Old Nick]

I got it started today, finally.

It ran really rough though and had a check engine light. I didn’t check the code yet, but I had a feeling it was related to the airflow meter. I accidentally plugged oil the screws out and pulled out the plug when I was taking the intake off originally thinking it was how it came out. Big mistake. All the solder came off the pads as well, so I can’t resolder it. I tried to use jumper wires back to the three pins, but the existing silver/solder/whatever on the traces just kept flaking off as soon as any pressure was applied to the soldered wires. It was also not the first time this happened I’m sure because the cap was smeared with silicone like it had been taken apart before.

I found an eBay seller selling replacement PCBs for the 93-94 Land Cruiser air flow meter. I’m not sure if I want to try that or just buy a replacement airflow meter. This sucks. *sigh*

Stoked that you got her to fire up.

Those screws on the airflow meter... I swear they were put there to mess with the DIY mechanic... They are hard to resist. If you can find a good used unit (the entire assy), I'd think that you'd be better off. Unless someone chimes in with knowledge about the ebay seller.

Edit. Sorry, I didn't catch your last post. Fingers crossed that the new unit works. There are places like Cruiser Yard out of Texas (I bought manifolds for our 94 from them because the studs on the oem units were frozen just like yours), and a few users here who are continually parting out 80s. If that unit doesn't work, I hit one of them up.

 

[atm0706]

Stoked that you got her to fire up.

Those screws on the airflow meter... I swear they were put there to mess with the DIY mechanic... They are hard to resist. If you can find a good used unit (the entire assy), I'd think that you'd be better off. Unless someone chimes in with knowledge about the ebay seller.

Edit. Sorry, I didn't catch your last post. Fingers crossed that the new unit works. There are places like Cruiser Yard out of Texas (I bought manifolds for our 94 from them because the studs on the oem units were frozen just like yours), and a few users here who are continually parting out 80s. If that unit doesn't work, I hit one of them up.

Yeah I’m hoping this one will at least function. And of it does I’ll order that pcb and swap it onto the oem meter. I’m not sure if they’re a new thing or what, but I couldn’t find anything on ih8mud about aftermarket air flow meters. Everyone was talking about places that rebuilt them or bought used units. Couldn’t find anything about anyone trying one. Fingers crossed