Wow! Welcome back! A new life at 210k. Only in a cruiser...
Manglers "Flying Egg" Resto-Build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Boston Mangler
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- Thread starter
- #22
Thank you for the kind words.
Your build, and as important, your thought process for it, is an inspiration for what my plans are.
Will be quite similar.
I’ve spent hours searching and trying to figure out an OEM wheels that I can use for a narrow-ish 33 without spacers and no rubbing, my brain hurts
OEM replacement suspension parts for overhaul, shopping spree coming soon!
- Thread starter
- #23
I guess I’ve gotten quite spoiled with Amazon Prime and getting everything next day…
Well, first order of business has arrived
Well, first order of business has arrived
- Thread starter
- #24
Manuals and Grom arrived…
Almost time to dig into this Sumbitch
Almost time to dig into this Sumbitch
- Thread starter
- #25
Grom installed and it was suprisingly easy
Plug and Play as advertised (rare)
Quick function check shows the 2 main things I want and need working perfectly
Also, rear camera, and steering wheels controls works same as OEM
45 minute install, id rate it one Banana
I followed this video for install notes:
Plug and Play as advertised (rare)
Quick function check shows the 2 main things I want and need working perfectly
Also, rear camera, and steering wheels controls works same as OEM
45 minute install, id rate it one Banana
I followed this video for install notes:
Last edited:
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
Where did you find the printed manuals? Looking for a 2011
Also, you need to call some folks back.
- Thread starter
- #27
Where did you find the printed manuals? Looking for a 2011
Also, you need to call some folks back.
eBay.. $170 or so for the set, it’s actually 8 manuals.. 1, 1a, 2, 2a, etc…. Box probably weighed 40lbs+
Nah, I don’t return phone calls. I’m not important
Grom installed and it was suprisingly easy
Plug and Play as advertised (rare)
Quick function check shows the 2 main things I want and need working perfectly
45 minute install, id rate it one Banana
View attachment 3598017
View attachment 3598018
I followed this video for install notes:
i wish i had the skillz for this
- Thread starter
- #29
- Thread starter
- #30
Well, good news and bad news.
I was able to get both of my rear door lock actuators replaced, and it was easy peazy.
Bad news, theyre identical part # to the ones i pulled out, which LOOKED to be in perfect condition. no corrosion, muck built up, looked brand new etc... Will see how long it lasts.
I would definitely rate this task as a one Banana
Other write ups on here detail a pretty involved process of removing a bunch of stuff and this that and the other.
PROTIP: Remove door panel, remove 3 screws holding actuator into door, rotate it counterclockwise and remove it through hole while everything is still attached. Place new one beside it, swap cables over, return to position clockwise, and reinstall 3 screws.
Just Make sure door latch lines up with fork while rotating back in place, and Bob is your uncle.
I am a big clumsy oaf with sasquatch hands and didnt have any issues.
Observation: Before replacing them, i wouldnt get a chirp confirming the doors were locked (because they werent), now i do and all 4 are functioning like they should. Woohoo!
I was able to get both of my rear door lock actuators replaced, and it was easy peazy.
Bad news, theyre identical part # to the ones i pulled out, which LOOKED to be in perfect condition. no corrosion, muck built up, looked brand new etc... Will see how long it lasts.
I would definitely rate this task as a one Banana
Other write ups on here detail a pretty involved process of removing a bunch of stuff and this that and the other.
PROTIP: Remove door panel, remove 3 screws holding actuator into door, rotate it counterclockwise and remove it through hole while everything is still attached. Place new one beside it, swap cables over, return to position clockwise, and reinstall 3 screws.
Just Make sure door latch lines up with fork while rotating back in place, and Bob is your uncle.
I am a big clumsy oaf with sasquatch hands and didnt have any issues.
Observation: Before replacing them, i wouldnt get a chirp confirming the doors were locked (because they werent), now i do and all 4 are functioning like they should. Woohoo!
Last edited:
Well, good news and bad news.
I was able to get both of my rear door lock actuators replaced, and it was easy peazy.
Bad news, theyre identical part # to the ones i pulled out, which LOOKED to be in perfect condition. no corrosion, muck built up, looked brand new etc... Will see how long it lasts.
I would definitely rate this task as a one Banana
Other write ups on here detail a pretty involved process of removing a bunch of stuff and this that and the other.
PROTIP: Remove door panel, remove 3 screws holding actuator into door, rotate it counterclockwise and remove it through hole while everything is still attached. Place new one beside it, swap cables over, return to position clockwise, and reinstall 3 screws.
Just Make sure door latch lines up with fork while rotating back in place, and Bob is your uncle.
I am a big clumsy oaf with sasquatch hands and didnt have any issues.
Observation: Before replacing them, i wouldnt get a chirp confirming the doors were locked (because they werent), now i do and all 4 are functioning like they should. Woohoo!
View attachment 3598759
View attachment 3598758
I'd be curious if spraying electronics cleaner on the actuator motors would be a fix in itself?
I find many motors at higher mileage are susceptible to brush graphite/carbon buildup. My experience is that cleaning the motors really wakes them up to deliver the torque necessary to do their job. The difference shows immediately on a bench test and I'd be curious if the actuator you took out could be experimented with?
- Thread starter
- #32
Yes, i was wondering this also.
Passenger side looked brand new, not even dust on it, even inside.
Drivers side looked older with some dust, and a little muck built up, but nothing concerning.
Both visually appeared to be in great shape, but...
Before replacing, both were sporadic and would only work 50% of the time, didnt matter drivers master lock, or remote.
Puzzling, but will take these further apart and replace the motors for "Next Time"
- Thread starter
- #33
HVAC Blower motor replacement next.
It’s shot and causes some crazy vibrations when I put the fan on.
Not even done and this is at least a 2 job due to cirque de sole level contortion required to access it from under glove box.
Got the old one out and LOTS of play in the bearings, so that’s a win!
Upon first inspection of the truck before
picking it up, I thought it was AC compressor.
$150 vs $1500
Hopes and prayers this is the fix
It’s shot and causes some crazy vibrations when I put the fan on.
Not even done and this is at least a 2
job due to cirque de sole level contortion required to access it from under glove box.Got the old one out and LOTS of play in the bearings, so that’s a win!
Upon first inspection of the truck before
picking it up, I thought it was AC compressor.
$150 vs $1500
Hopes and prayers this is the fix
HVAC Blower motor replacement next.
It’s shot and causes some crazy vibrations when I put the fan on.
Not even done and this is at least a 2
Got the old one out and LOTS of play in the bearings, so that’s a win!
Upon first inspection of the truck before
picking it up, I thought it was AC compressor.
$150 vs $1500
Hopes and prayers this is the fix
View attachment 3599420
View attachment 3599421
While you're in there, 100% do this, too. HVAC Recirc Door - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/hvac-recirc-door.1333718/post-15386648
- Thread starter
- #35
Thanks. I’ll check it out
- Thread starter
- #36
Well, happy and surprised to report my recirc door works perfectly…
With that being said, cabin filter most definitely needs a changing
Thanks for the tip
- Thread starter
- #37
New blower motor finally arrived
Gonna try to recruit a buddy with smaller hands to get that sumbitch back in there.
Comparing the wheel play in the 2 makes me confident this was my issue. Old one is super sloppy, new one, zero play.
Gonna try to recruit a buddy with smaller hands to get that sumbitch back in there.
Comparing the wheel play in the 2 makes me confident this was my issue. Old one is super sloppy, new one, zero play.
- Thread starter
- #38
New blower motor in and tested and vibrations are 100% gone and everything working perfectly.
I’d rate this a 2.5 job if you’re a plus size fella like myself, or a 1.5 job if you’re a normal size human.
All interior quirks and issues fixed and back to new! Woot!
Next is deleting the roof rack and collecting all the suspension components!
Onward and Upward
I’d rate this a 2.5
job if you’re a plus size fella like myself, or a 1.5 job if you’re a normal size human.All interior quirks and issues fixed and back to new! Woot!
Next is deleting the roof rack and collecting all the suspension components!
Onward and Upward
- Thread starter
- #39
For as immaculate as the interior is, the cabin filter was freaking digusting:
FJRanger
SILVER Star
New blower motor finally arrived
Gonna try to recruit a buddy with smaller hands to get that sumbitch back in there.
Comparing the wheel play in the 2 makes me confident this was my issue. Old one is super sloppy, new one, zero play.
At 220K Sienna is on it's third and is showing signs. Not looking forward to replacing it again.
