MallCrl 5.0? That's too many iterations - We'll just call it another '22 GX Build...

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Went to return/swap the X2Power AGM today, 3 employees were looking at me like I was crazy talking about the post spinning on a brand new battery. One guy walks up from the back and goes "give me just a second with it". Literally 45 seconds later comes back and goes "yea, so the posts actually unscrew on the X2 AGM batteries, I just grabbed a pair of pliers and tightened it for you, should be good to go". If either of the stores I called or the corporate customer service number could have just mentioned that over the phone it would have saved me 90 minutes of driving, but whatever. It's installed, as is the VoltageBooster Pro (currently set to low), and working flawlessly.

The temps were over 60°F for a bit today, so I took advantage of that to install the Lensun Solar panel that's been sitting in the garage since Overland Expo East.

Initial thoughts: the quality of the product/process is nowhere near that of Cascadia4x4's hood solar panels. The vinyl under-layer (to "protect the paint") was in its own box, but when it came out of the box it was crumpled in more than a few areas, so it simply got tossed. In the past I've both used the vinyl (Tacoma) and not used it (Sprinter). I could see the long term benefits of it in the event that you pull the panel off and don't replace it, but if it damages the paint that badly, I'll just have the hood resprayed, it has more than enough rock chips from the original owner to justify that.

Beyond that, removing the panel from its shipping protector yielded another surprise, it doesn't come with the VHB tape to install it. The Cascadia4x4 panels I've used always come with the VHB pre-applied, or in the case of their new attachment method (clips) that comes with the panel. Luckily I'm a huge fan of 3M VHB and always keep several fresh rolls in the garage. I prepped the underside of the panel by wiping all areas with several alcohol swabs, then 3M Adhesion Promoter, then did 2 rows of 1" VHB at the leading edge and sides, 1 row at the trailing edge, and 3 1" strips up the middle. On the hood, I centered the panel, then outlined it with 2" painters tape, then prepped the surface with several rounds of Adam's Surface Prep as well as Chemical Guys Wipe Out for good measure (FWIW, neither seemed to make a huge difference on the slickness of the XPEL ceramic coating, so I'm slightly concerned). After that I hit the hood with the 3M Adhesion Promoter wipes as well, then stuck the panel in place and promptly covered the parts of the panel that had VHB with a pile of old textbooks for about an hour.

I will say, the Cascadia4x4 panels I've installed previously have always only been applied to a flat part of the hood. The 100W Lensun panel for the GX460 extends beyond the sunken center section of the hood and onto the next portion of raised hood. I'm not so sure the VHB will hold the curve in the panel to the center section, but I guess time will tell.

The wiring runs to the underside of the hood, then along the underside to the driver's side of the engine bay where the Renogy DC-DC/MPPT charge controller is; I had a pair of MC4 connectors pre-wired waiting for the panel to be installed.

With a 10k mile road trip coming up in 2 weeks, I'd much rather the VHB fail sooner rather than later if it's not going to hold. Our Sprinter is going strong at 3.5 years and 65k miles in temps ranging from 115°F to -25°F with the Cascadia4x4 panel held on with VHB.

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Arriving this week is a Ohana Rig Supply dash mount for our phones, more aluminum extrusion for the cargo area, and a set of NYTOP reverse light housings... The Baja S2 Pros to go in them should be in either this week or early next week.

Still debating wrapping the taillights in some Lamin-X Tint (the lightest color) and putting the LFD Off Road crossbars on before the trip (unlikely that they will be used, but they could help in hiding the Starlink Mini a bit)
 
I have the LFD crossbars. You could possibly have 2 crossbars and squeeze the Starlink between them so that it would be flush on top. However, it will always be pointing straight up and you won't be able to aim the antenna. Also, they are silly strong.

Also, I have the "blox" solar panel, you could squeeze that between the bars as well and may solve your hood panel issue.
 
@MallCrl i know that driveway lol. What's happening Anand, good looking GX, look forward to following along. Reach out we gotta catch up sometime
 
I have the LFD crossbars. You could possibly have 2 crossbars and squeeze the Starlink between them so that it would be flush on top. However, it will always be pointing straight up and you won't be able to aim the antenna. Also, they are silly strong.
I've never had an issue with the mini pointing straight up and not aiming, the magnets have been plenty strong for 90+mph cruise on other vehicles we've had it on. For the most part, at least on this vehicle, it'll only be in use while in motion.

I've been using LFD products on all of our builds (minus the Sprinter) for 7-ish years at this point, always love the products.
@MallCrl i know that driveway lol. What's happening Anand, good looking GX, look forward to following along. Reach out we gotta catch up sometime
Hey man!!! I gotta make it out to a CLCC meet at some point
 
Some more updates!

Finally had some time to drop in the Goose Gear 3rd row plate/seat delete (install video I put up on YouTube is here)
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In a fantastic bit of chance and luck, some left over 1"x1" extrusion pieces that I had left over from the Grenadier's rear drawer system/build out happened to be the exact size I needed to frame in the fridge and the LiFePO4 battery (which will sit forward of the fridge). I've got a couple more pieces arriving in the next few days to finish framing out the battery itself.This is the first vehicle I've built for myself that has a fridge and no slide, also the first that doesn't have drawers, so the fridge is at quite a low height. Below the Goose Gear plate I applied some 80mil CLD panels as well as a layer of 3M Thinsulate AU4002-5, as well as lining the side covers with the Thinsulate as well. There's no appreciable noise difference now vs. with the 3rd row in place, I completely forgot to use my meter to get actual before/after sound level readings though.

On the driver's side MOLLE panel I added the WeBoost Drive Reach "module", a 12v->24v step up converter for the Starlink Mini, as well as a pair of relays to power them. Switching is handled by a pair of CH4x4 OEM-style switches to the left of the steering wheel (video coming for that install soon). I also slide a left over off cut of Thinsulate between the panel and the window. The tint is dark, but this will keep any sort of prying eyes out of the side windows.
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I spent a few minutes on my back in the driveway and got the LFD Off Road aluminum front skid installed as well. Maybe after the winter I'll pop it off and spray it gloss black to match the newly wrapped trim, but for now, raw aluminum is the fashion
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Speaking of, I dropped the truck off last week while we were out of town for a few days to have a paint correction and XPEL ceramic coating applied, as well as wrapping all the "satin chrome" (grille, front bumper accent, mirrors, door handles, roof rails, and tailgate trim) wrapped in Gloss Black. This is probably the most aesthetic-centric thing I've done to a vehicle ever, but I'm absolutely chuffed with the outcome. Oh, also got my personalized tag in... It's the perfect license plate for a GX, yes it's cheeky, and yes it's a light jab at the GXOR crowd :P
Also visible in this pic are the black line fog light surrounds and Diode Dynamics SSC1 SAE fog lamps (mounted on brackets from Ronin Metalworks. the aiming is all sorts of wonky with them, so I'm going to need to either bend/adjust the brackets or come up with something totally different. Currently the lamps are mounted at about a 25° angle to fit into the openings like this -> \ / which, given the wide and short beam pattern of the Diode lamps, sends light in that same pattern instead of a horizontal beam as it should be
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Final bit of work for the weekend was getting the spare wheel/tire mounted (awesome quick work done by Pull-Up Tires, right in the driveway, for all you Maryland folks). 265/65/18 is definitely the largest that will fit without rubbing on the sway bar
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Oh! I also grabbed a X2Power Group 24F AGM battery last week, went to install it over the weekend and found that the positive post spins. Hopefully I can get that swapped out tomorrow, apparently BatteriesPlus requires you to return it to the store of purchase (which was the only one within an hour that had it in stock, and is about 45 minutes away from me), but they don't have them in stock any longer, and the next closest that does is about 40 minutes in the opposite direction from me. I may just return it and grab an Interstate AGM from Costco (5 minutes away)
Do you plan on any type of cover to keep prying eyes from seeing all your electronics on that rear quarter rack?
 
Do you plan on any type of cover to keep prying eyes from seeing all your electronics on that rear quarter rack?
With the 20% tint over the factory privacy glass, it's at about 6% light transmittance currently across the back 3 windows; beyond that, between each MOLLE panel and the side cargo glass is a (roughly) cut to size piece of 3M Thinsulate, effectively allowing only about a 1.5" section of glass at the top being uncovered (purely for convenience, it's the left over from what I over cut for under the Goose Gear plate, then cut in half to split between the two windows); so the only way to see it would be to look quite carefully through the back window. If it tickles someone's fancy that much to smash the back window to get at it, they're way more industrious than I am.

On my Grenadier, coincidentally enough, I had a lot of electronics in roughly the same area (2 fuse blocks, MPPT, Inverter, WeBoost, 24v adapter for Starlink, Icom UHF/VHF radio body, ARB twin, 12v/USB outlets, Air outlet, 120v outlets, 5G Hotspot, 5G antenna, Switch Panel, and Victron battery monitor), with the same style off cut of Thinsulate between the window and the electronics, but on the "interior" side, they were enclosed in a "box" (framed 80/20 with 1/8" ABS on the sides visible from the interior) which was just straight pieces of ABS cut to size. I'm not invested enough in the aesthetics (or I guess security) to heat/cut/bend a cover over the MOLLE panel itself on this truck
 
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On my Grenadier, coincidentally enough, I had a lot of electronics in roughly the same area (2 fuse blocks, MPPT, Inverter, WeBoost, 24v adapter for Starlink, Icom UHF/VHF radio body, ARB twin, 12v/USB outlets, Air outlet, 120v outlets, 5G Hotspot, 5G antenna, Switch Panel, and Victron battery monitor)
I guess there's no chance of you ever being out of COMM's! 😁
Seriously, I like being able to be "connected" for safety and convenience, just can't justify Starlink and the WeBoost yet. I have a cheap cell booster and it helps, but not like the WeBoost.
If you get a chance, can you post a photo of your Grenadier's setup? Maybe label all the components?
 
Sure! This was the cargo area of the Grenadier. The space on the passenger side held a Dometic 11L Water Jug and the Dometic Faucet
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Here's a close up of the face of the panel (with the right panel off). Top is the Victron BMV-712 battery monitor, then a Feniex 4200 Mini switch controller (controlled lights in the cargo area, inverter on/off, and the backlight feature on the exterior Diode Dynamics lights); AC outlets and USB outlets from the Inverter; USB-A/USB-C, and 12v outlets, and then the air chuck from the air compressor
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And inside... (before the Starlink 24v adapter). Large fuse is for the Victron IP67 25A AC-DC charger located behind the interior panels, below that is the BlueSea 12 outlet fuse block; The small blue box is the Victron 75/15 MPPT controller (100W panel on the roof), large blue box is the Victron Phoenix 12/1200 Inverter, larger black box mounted horizontally is the WeBoost Drive Reach unit. The air compressor and radio body mount forward of the inverter towards the seat space
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CH4x4 switches installed in the dash - YouTube Video for the install
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Next update will be the final install/securing the aux battery... Hopefully at sometime in the coming days; perhaps mixed with a walkthrough of where/how I store all the stuff (way less than previous builds) this thing carries at all times.

Tomorrow marks 9 weeks of waiting for the Ohana Rig Supply dash mount (4-8wk initial lead time), after checking in with them almost 2 weeks ago and letting them know about my timeline, I got a tracking number just over a week ago that hasn't made it beyond "label created". Looking at their Facebook Reviews, they're sitting at a 1 star, with everyone complaining about missed deadlines, and one person saying they've waited 10 months for rear door tables?! We've got just over a week before departure and I've gotta get something to hold our phones, I can't do 10k miles in 5 weeks with just tossing it in the ashtray every time.

Also just got the Nytop reverse light housings for Baja Designs S2s, but not positive that the S2s will arrive before we leave at this point as they too are sitting with a label printed (but only for 1 day thus far).
 
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Good call on having the 'chrome' wrapped. I didn't consider doing so when I had mine ceramic coated, but after living with the truck for a year and learning what a pain it can be to make the stuff look good, I may do the same.
 
A couple quick updates... I washed the truck for the first time since having the ceramic coating applied 3.5 weeks ago... The paint's hydrophobic-ness was surprising and impressive.

Also realized the reason for the Diode SSC1 fogs were angled was because in my haste of being tired of laying in my driveway used the wrong hole to mount the Ronin Metalworks brackets... So for anyone installing them that stumbles upon this thread, use the factory hole above the fog light. Makes way more sense with the notch in the bracket now.
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Also made a shelf for the cargo area... We're about to hit the road for 5 weeks, and our normal load out for a trip that long is a large duffel full of clothes and then individual (for myself and my girlfriend) duffels that hold 4-5 days worth of clothes at a time. Instead of having bags just tossed and laying on top of each other this should allow some separation
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I shot a video of the assembly/install of the shelf (just need to edit it), and will probably shoot another one going over the bags/load in the coming days when we're visiting the in-laws for a few days
 
How are the SSC1s compared to the stock fogs, and are they on a separate harness or the stock fog wiring? Might swap mine out one day using those brackets.
 
How are the SSC1s compared to the stock fogs, and are they on a separate harness or the stock fog wiring? Might swap mine out one day using those brackets.
So, my opinion on this is a bit biased. My '21 Tundra has SS3 Max fogs, '21 Tacoma had SS3 Pro fogs, Sprinter has Diode SL1 bulbs and Lamin-X film on the fogs, my better half's '23 Forester has SS3 Max fogs, etc... I'm used to a lot of light output from the fog lights. The SSC1's are definitely nowhere near that level of light output, but they are definitely more potent than stock, they also have a wonderfully wide spread (and, since they are the SAE fog lens, have a sharp cut off as to not blind the world).

Conveniently enough, this morning was the first time I drove in some very thick fog with them (we drove through some light/moderate snow showers and rain last week), and certainly no complaints. My biggest complaint is that because I'm using the factory wiring, they turn off with the high beams (we're currently in OK to see my girlfriend's family, who live miles out on gravel roads, so I'd love to have the long distance illumination of the highs, and the low/wide illumination of the fogs for the roadside).

If this wasn't an OEM+ style daily driver build, it would have a Switch Pros controller and the fogs would be wired off of that so I'd have independent control.

If the weather forecasts are correct, we'll be driving through some fresh falling snow next week through WY/MT and I can report back on that.
 
That's not Maryland is it? It looks more like west, south west U.S..
Indeed the SW! that was just outside Page, AZ… In Utah for the next day or so, then Montana and West to the coast, before heading south to California and then starting back east
 
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Indeed the SW! that was just outside Page, AZ… In Utah for the next day or so, then Montana and West to the coast, before heading south to California and then starting back east
If you're heading as far south as San Clemente, CA, PM me to stop by for a beer! There's a beach at the end of our street to go for a swim!
 
40k service performed at Findlay Lexus in Spokane, WA on Saturday without any surprises or hiccups, other than I'm assuming their carwash is a traditional brushed style carwash as the WeBoost antenna was knocked off the roof and dangling from the cable (the Starlink wasn't on the roof at the time luckily). Also the first time since I bought the truck that it's had tire shine on it, I'm guessing that's just part of their car wash process.

Here's a photo from 600 miles after the service, along the Central Oregon coast this evening
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