Look what I get to fix. Any tips, tricks or knowledge you want to provide is greatly appreciated.
Maintenance work (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ASI H8
- Start date
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2fpower
SILVER Star
I will assume that is rear diff oil, not brake fluid.
Beno has a great thread on rebuilding the rear full floats. Did mine last year ... first time on a FF. I thought it was really easy. I have the SST -- that I really don't know if it really needed. I can bring it next week to the meeting if you want it.
Bearings are same as front and there is a thread out there on the KOYO part numbers.
Beno has a great thread on rebuilding the rear full floats. Did mine last year ... first time on a FF. I thought it was really easy. I have the SST -- that I really don't know if it really needed. I can bring it next week to the meeting if you want it.
Bearings are same as front and there is a thread out there on the KOYO part numbers.
2fpower
SILVER Star
2 x JLM104948 w/ JLM104910 race.
2 x JLM102949 w/ JLM102910 race.
How-to: rear axle rebuild
Rear axle job and pics.
2 x JLM102949 w/ JLM102910 race.
How-to: rear axle rebuild
Rear axle job and pics.
Pretty easy job to rebuild those rears, much easier than the front.
- Thread starter
- #6
Did you guys replace the races and bearings? If so, how and what did you use to get the races back in?
I've always fight races with punches and a lot of cussing. Some times I'll have a 4wd socket that fits and makes it a touch easier but cussing seems to be the underlying commen theme. Not good advice but some times misury loves company and all is well. I know some have race drivers that seem to work well. EverytimE I look at them I think of the times when I had a socket that was right sized and still a pain and save the money.
Maybe that opinion is just mine.
Maybe that opinion is just mine.
2fpower
SILVER Star
Yes, change the races always. I was told they should be considered a set.
I use a brass hammer first, sideways so it will hit both sides of the race and hit the hammer with another hammer to drive it straight in, then I take the old race and grind off a little bit all around the outside. then put it on top of the new race you are putting in narrow side to narrow side, and repeat the sideways brass hammer, sometimes going to steel hammer as I dont care about damaging the old race. Sometimes I just tap them in with light hits on one side then other side with the brass drift.
I did cuss quite a bit when driving races out and slam my thumb; however, that does not help the situation.
I use a brass hammer first, sideways so it will hit both sides of the race and hit the hammer with another hammer to drive it straight in, then I take the old race and grind off a little bit all around the outside. then put it on top of the new race you are putting in narrow side to narrow side, and repeat the sideways brass hammer, sometimes going to steel hammer as I dont care about damaging the old race. Sometimes I just tap them in with light hits on one side then other side with the brass drift.
I did cuss quite a bit when driving races out and slam my thumb; however, that does not help the situation.
When I did Moby last year the rears looked like brand new bearings with old grease in them. I just cleaned everything up really well and re installed. I believe it was Beno who told me over the phone that the rears on these trucks almost never require replacement. In fact the only bad wheel bearing i've seen was the one I dropped and bent the cage on.
Edit: also the HF seal driver kit works awesome on races as well as seals.
2fpower
SILVER Star
Mine looked great too; however, I am scared with the rear axles on these rigs. The spindle is non-replaceable. If a bearing goes out, you need to source a whole rear axle. That is why I throw my $50 at it.
- Thread starter
- #13
A little tap here. A little tap there. Keep working it. Good idea to use the old race. Jeff City Harbor Freight didn't have a race bearing seal set. I went to Auto Zone and "barrowed" theirs. Soon as kids are in bed I'll give all ideas a shot. Well other than the brass hammer (don't have one, yet). Also don't have time to chill drivers side but I'll try it on the passenger side next week.
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- Thread starter
- #14
So I used the old race and put the new inner race in. Then I went ahead and put in the inner seal. Note to self, don't do that. I used the race bearing set to put in the outer race. Both worked well.
Do I need to pack the area full of grease?
Do I need to pack the area full of grease?
- Thread starter
- #15
Should the axle slide in without issue?
- Thread starter
- #16
Oh well. Packed grease between the bearings. Used the 6 studs to set the axle. Still need to top off oil in the third. That will have to wait until tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #18
I got everything put together, topped off the gear oil in the diff, and took it for a drive a few days back. All is good. Thanks to all for the assistance. BTW, I didn't cuss once while removing the races.
- Thread starter
- #19
When changing the passenger side bearings and seals, I noticed the pads were more worn than the drivers side. Last week the squeaker started squeaking. The caliper was not releasing completely. Might as well replace disk and pads along with caliper on both sides while I have time.
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- Thread starter
- #20
Breaks were done just in time for a shock to go out on the wife's car. While I was working on her shocks she was driving the 80. Well, until this happened. So who has a passenger side second door large window for sale?
