Maintenance...Water Pump, T-Stat, Oil Cooler, Flush Engine/Radiator, now head-gasket blown :(

flintknapper

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Wow....glad I checked the first torque sequence (29 ft. lbs.)

After letting the head sit for a couple of hours...I went back over the head bolts and found that the first 4 bolts in either end of the head were still tight...BUT all the others took a bit more turning. After that....I checked them all one last time and all were tight and at proper torque spec.

So the next step will be to finish the 90° sequences. Probably complete that in the morning when it's cooler outside. Should have put my Cruiser inside from the very start.

90a.jpg



90b.jpg
 

flintknapper

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Finishing up my 90° torque sequences this morning. I have the bolt sequence numbers marked on the head so I don't get out of order and after each bolt is turned 90° I put a paint mark next to that number (one dot the first round, second dot after the second round).

I did this because:

1. I'm Old and when you are old your 'CRS' increases. ;) **Can't Remember Sh&t**
2. I live on my ranch out in the country and we have various animals. So being 'interrupted' over something is not only possible, but to be expected. So I need to know where I left off.
3. I'm detail oriented (to a fault). It's inherited...I can't help it.

90 sequence1.jpg


Anyway....all my 'marking' stuff was going along well UNTIL I managed to pull the entire top off of my paint pen. The cap had been getting a little sticky but I was almost finished so didn't stop to clean it off. When the cap didn't come off easily....I did what all men of proper teaching will do....PULL HARDER.

90 sequence2.jpg


The rest of my day will probably be spent with a rag and a can of Acetone.

NOTE: I did record the dynamic torque on all bolts the last 90° pass and it turns out my previous WAG for that figure was WAY off. I'll address that in a later post.
 
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flintknapper

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Well got 'most' of my mess cleaned up. Few spots that will just have to remain.

Double checked my head bolts and moved on to installing the lower intake.

Before putting your intake on you want to be sure to address anything underneath that needs attention (PHH, coolant hose to throttle body, sensors, etc).

I am deleting my EGR and getting rid of the EGR pipe, so I have the block offs in place. I decided to do the 'work around' and have that hose in place. Also replacing other hoses as I go.

Gates PHH work around.jpg


When reinstalling your sensor's (there are four that attach to the head) you'll need a 19mm and 17mm wrench. Then the order in which they go (Back of head to front) is as shown below:


Sensors in Head1.jpg




Sensors in Head2.jpg


This is a good time to install new spark plugs as well.

Spark Plugs 97 LC.jpg


Hopefully get my cams set in the head tomorrow then look at doing the fuel rail and upper intake. Little by little.
 
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flintknapper

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A little more progress. Lower intake back on (that was fun).

Cams back in (that part was easy).

Will put distributor in tomorrow, fuel rail and injectors, maybe the upper intake.

A few random pics of the relationship of the Exhaust Cam to the intake cam (upon installation) for those doing this. Intake Cam goes in first, just follow the FSM. Exhaust cam second. Matching the 'double dots'...then rolling the cam down into it's 'saddles' in the head while keeping the gears meshed is a little awkward.

But once done, your 'double dots' should look like this (both at about 35° angles)


exh cam install2.jpg


And the Cam Lobes at Bearing Caps 4 & 6 should be touching the edges of the lifters at those locations respectively. Just like installing the Intake Cam...you'll slowly tighten these two caps first (alternating turning each bolt) until you've seated the cam nice and straight.

exh cam install1.jpg


Then install the rest of the caps, torque all of them to 12 ft. lbs. Don't forget to remove your capture bolt from the exhaust cam gear.

exh cam install3.jpg


Lastly, you'll need to roll the cams around so the the 'Single' dots are aligned (inboard) and the 'Double' dots are both (outboard) roughly lined up with the head. This will bring the cams into TDC (Top Dead Center) position.

exh cam install4.jpg


At this point check to see that your harmonic balancer is still at (0) (TDC) and if it is...you can reattach the timing chain gear to the intake cam. Then install the distributor drive gear (pin goes in the slot that is at 11 O'Clock) and then torque it to 54 ft. lbs. Reinstall your chain tensioner (use new gasket) and torque the nuts to 15 ft. lbs.

exh cam install5.jpg
 
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Godwin

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A little more progress. Lower intake back on (that was fun).

Cams back in (that part was easy).

Will put distributor in tomorrow, fuel rail and injectors, maybe the upper intake.

A few random pics of the relationship of the Exhaust Cam to the intake cam (upon installation) for those doing this. Intake Cam goes in first, just follow the FSM. Exhaust cam second. Matching the 'double dots'...then rolling the cam down into it's 'saddles' in the head while keeping the gears meshed is a little awkward.

But once done, your 'double dots' should look like this (both at about 35° angles)


View attachment 2356691

And the Cam Lobes at Bearing Caps 4 & 6 should be touching the edges of the lifters at those locations respectively. Just like installing the Intake Cam...you'll slowly tighten these two caps first (alternating turning each bolt) until you've seated the cam nice and straight.

View attachment 2356692

Then install the rest of the caps, torque all of them to 12 ft. lbs. Don't forget to remove your capture bolt from the exhaust cam gear.

View attachment 2356694

Lastly, you'll need to roll the cams around so the the 'Single' dots are aligned (inboard) and the 'Double' dots are both (outboard) roughly lined up with the head. This will bring the cams into TDC (Top Dead Center) position.

View attachment 2356697

At this point check to see that your harmonic balancer is still at (0) (TDC) and if it is...you can reattach the timing chain gear to the intake cam. Then install the distributor drive gear (pin goes in the slot that is at 11 O'Clock) and then torque it to 54 ft. lbs. Reinstall your chain tensioner (use new gasket) and torque the nuts to 15 ft. lbs.

View attachment 2356698
What is the purpose of the capture bolt on the exhaust cam? I've been following this thread because I have been reinstalling a head on a 1FZ. I am a few steps behind your progress and have found your postings to be very helpful.
 

flintknapper

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What is the purpose of the capture bolt on the exhaust cam? I've been following this thread because I have been reinstalling a head on a 1FZ. I am a few steps behind your progress and have found your postings to be very helpful.

Hi Jim,

The exhaust cam is unique in that it is a split gear arrangement (main gear and a sub gear). Between these two is a Wave Washer. My understanding is that the purpose for this set up is to eliminate back lash noise. The washer creates thrust (Sub Gear against #1 bearing cap). If it weren't there...you would have a clicking noise. We can think of it as a 'damper' I suppose.

The intake gear drives the gear on the exhaust cam, so by necessity there is a small amount of clearance between the two 'backlash'.

If the movement of the exhaust cam gear were not attenuated...there would be a 'hammering' of the gears as the cam lobes engage and disengage the lifters.

Now on to your question: 'Why capture the Main/Sub gear'? By using a Service Bolt you relieve the torsional pressure the Wave Washer is creating so that removing and installing the Cam is easier AND it keeps the teeth on the two gears lined up.

So you'll want a M6 x 1.0 x 20 mm bolt on hand (some folks have used one the valve cover bolts). I used an Allen Head bolt on mine just so I wouldn't have clearance issues with the #1 cap when removing the bolt.
 
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Good stuff here. I'm also a few steps behind on my 2nd HG replacement (different trucks, same year). Only thing I see that I would do differently is more assembly lube on the cam buckets and I did teflon tape on the ECT Cutoff.

Also, I install the sensors, PHH and lower intake first, then put it all on at once with the head. I'm also using a hoist, so it may not be feasible without it.
 

flintknapper

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So....today I installed the Distributor, Fuel rail and injectors, Valve Cover, Upper Manifold and Alternator. Connected a bunch of hoses, wiring, etc....

Is it just me...or has anyone else wondered why Toyota couldn't have put the fasteners for the upper and lower intakes on TOP of the intake instead of UNDERNEATH?

I'm a simple man (and the first to say so)...maybe there is a reason they put the bolts there. But IF there is, it certainly escapes me.

I don't consider myself a very scholarly person or 'deep thinker'...but I DO know that if the bolts/nuts had been put on TOP:

A). We could SEE them (always helpful).
B). We could access them with little trouble (better for our blood pressure).
C). We could place them in their respective holes taking advantage of GRAVITY to keep them there. (a novel idea).
D). We wouldn't need 3' of extensions, universal joints, wobble extensions, flashlights, taped up bolt heads, Ibuprofen.

Getting Closer:

Getting Close.jpg
 
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flintknapper

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A good time to install your distributor is when you still have the Valve Cover off. The reason for this is that you can see the witness marks on the distributor and can be certain they haven't moved as you push the distributor in.

Be sure to lube the distributor bore in the head, the shaft of the distributor and the O-Ring before installing it.


Dist Install1.jpg


Watch to see that along with keeping the match marks aligned....that you also orient the distributor so that the lock bolt hole is roughly centered in the slot of the distributor body.

Dist Install2.jpg


As the gear on the distributor contacts and mates the camshaft gear....the alignment mark on the distributor gear will turn clockwise (as will your rotor). This should bring the rotor into a position that has it pointing at the front edge of the connector. This should provide timing close enough to allow the engine to start. You'll set the timing more accurately later, of course.

Dist Install3.jpg


Dist Install4.jpg
 

flintknapper

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When reinstalling your fuel rail and injectors be GENTLE with the O-Rings and seals. You will hate yourself if you tear, pinch or mis-align anything and later discover you have a leak.

Begin by making sure the injector bores in the intake are clean. Then place the bottom seals in the bores. Do NOT try to put them on the injectors, they won't stay and that is the hardest way to do it.


Fuel Rail3.jpg


Carefully insert your injectors into the fuel rail (they will hold themselves in place).

Fuel Rail2.jpg


Next place the 3 'spacers' on their bosses and carefully lower the whole arrangement into place. You'll probably have to reach in and guide a few of the injectors into their seals, but once everything is lined up it will all slide right in.


Fuel Rail4.jpg


This is one of the few places it might makes sense (to me) to use a dab of blue locktite. You don't want these bolts coming loose.

Fuel Rail6.jpg


Install new crush washers on your Banjo Bolt and attach it to the fuel rail. Last thing to do is gently rotate each injector to see that it moves freely (meaning no O-Rings or seals have been pinched). You're done.

Fuel Rail10.jpg
 

flintknapper

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New Fan Blade and Shroud today. Filled radiator. Going to put the new Heater Valve on later this evening. Need to get my Air Filter housing (and tuna can) put back in place. Then connect the air intake and MAF sensor.

That should pretty much do it. I'll double check everything this weekend and see if it will start (hopefully no surprises).

I'll need to burp the cooling system and get all the air out the power steering system as well.

fan and shroud.jpg
 

Godwin

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This thread has been great. I've picked up some timely tips as I've been working a 1FZ . The angle gauge was very helpful and using paint dots with the torquing sequence. I'm working on a stand that makes this easier and I've added support under the front because I don't trust the cheap engine stand.

IMG_4646.JPG
IMG_4647.JPG
IMG_4648.JPG
IMG_4649.JPG
 

flintknapper

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This thread has been great. I've picked up some timely tips as I've been working a 1FZ . The angle gauge was very helpful and using paint dots with the torquing sequence. I'm working on a stand that makes this easier and I've added support under the front because I don't trust the cheap engine stand.

View attachment 2359762View attachment 2359763View attachment 2359765View attachment 2359770

You've got it looking good Jim. Smart of you to prop it up securely. Keep us updated. 👍
 

flintknapper

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Except for a few electrical connectors yet to be replaced....I'm pretty much done. Got the rest of it buttoned up today (Heater Valve in), pressure checked system, double checked everything. Put a fresh coat of paint on my tired looking Air Cleaner Housing and 'Tuna Can' (I mean...Cyclonic Filter).
ACH2.jpg


Tuna Can2.jpg

Pressure Test System.jpg


Start up:


After 20 Minutes Run Time

Start Up2.jpg
 

flintknapper

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Congrats Flint! Great job on your project and love the attention to detail!

Thank You Sir, but I'm not calling it a success until I've got a few hundred miles on it. Hopefully, no issues....so I can start on the LX470. Got a bunch of front end work I want to do there, plus Timing Belt, Water Pump, etc.........

Take Care everyone.


Flint.
 

Godwin

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Just generally looking over the engine compartment this morning and reached down to spin the A/C tensioner pulley. It didn't make any noise BUT it spun a bit too freely meaning the bearing was low on grease or the grease had migrated away from the ball bearings and dried up.

I don't remember having replaced the bearing or pulley in the 20 years I've had my Cruiser so....off it came for a clean up and new bearing.

A definite plus of not living in the rust belt...is that parts are normally easy to remove and nuts and bolts, etc....can just be wiped down and reused. I'll put a light coat of paint on the pulley and install the new bearing when it comes in.

I have the bearing ordered.....but for those needing to replace theirs...I can save you the trouble of looking it up:

NSK 6301 DDU (12mm x 37mm x 12mm). It is a deep groove bearing with seals on both sides.

Just remove the snap ring that retains it, turn the pulley over, tap it out with a drift punch.


View attachment 2339776


Edit: Something in the back of my mind (tiny as it is) was telling me I already had a 'spare' tensioner pulley. So I got to looking around in my parts box and sure enough...there it was. Oh well....I will put this one on and still have a 'spare' when the new bearing comes in. Why didn't my mind 'nag' me BEFORE I pulled this one apart. ;)

View attachment 2339880

Maybe I should check and see if I've got a Spare Land Cruiser back there someplace. The older you get the worse your 'CRS' gets.
Do you know if this bearing will work with the double pulley idler? Maybe two bearings are needed to rebuild that pulley?
 

flintknapper

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Do you know if this bearing will work with the double pulley idler? Maybe two bearings are needed to rebuild that pulley?
Jim the idler pulley for the dual belts is not serviceable since it is riveted together (or at least not worth the trouble).

Idler Pulley 16603-66010
 
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