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Discussion in 'Trailer Tech' started by wngrog, Oct 15, 2015.
Sad to say I actually spent a LOT of money to do that on my CDN101
It looked ridiculous.
You have to go all-in with a color-matched paint job (trailer same as Cruiser) to make matching wheels work (unless we are talking FJ-40 steelies with hubcaps). Otherwise, you are better off with the OE trailer wheels from a looks perspective...
And the width. And the expense of adapters or changing out the perfectly good M416 stuff. I love the weight and size of this trailer. Anything bigger I could not manhandle around.
I agree on all points, just messing with you.
Added a 1255mm set of FrontRunner rails to replace the Yakima.
Decided to go with 56" crossbars instead.
These fishing rod sleeves worked great to silence the chains and keep them from catching when you close the tailgate.
I decided to make my FrontRunner bars a solid mount after the trip to Arkansas last month. I love the FrontRunner bars but the clamps are designed for thick OEM roof rails so they didn't grip the tiny 1" tube rail as good as I hoped.
This will take the same amount of time to remove as the other. 8 nuts and it's off. Super solid.
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The Beaver Box slides under the tent but won't go past the crossbar so it's in a solid spot with no real need for straps but I keep one back there if for some reason the tailgate was to open
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All ready. The FrontRunner wolf packs slide in the front gap so I can take in and out without unloading all the kitchen stuff
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The FrontRunner stainless table slides under the bars on a tray they sell
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As for a trailer update.
My trailer tires did finally do some rubbing on the close fenders but I also had a s*** ton of weight on the trailer with two rows of greenish Hickory and Oak plus all my #eaf gear on a 2490 mile trip with major off reading.
Also when you cut a tailgate into it you may experience some box integrity issues.
Two in my group (out of 4) had the rear corners spread. This effects the way my tailgate latches. Because of the way my kitchen box fits I can't weld a solid bar across to tighten it up and a skratchet was not strong enough.
I got some slick clips today at Revell Ace and have a ratchet back there that will do the job.
I still prefer the low COG of the tent direct on the rails and with that a tailgate is mandatory.
One guy that cut his tailgate with us has not had the problem and Another that built his trailer with a frame that raises the tent made it where a tailgate is unnecessary
Info on the Beaver Box???? A Google search turns up all sorts of strange things....
Beaver Tree Camp Kitchen Organizer | Dom's Outdoor Outfitters, Inc.
Thank You! Going to put that on my 2017 Christmas List!
I also run an extender to open the swing out on my 100 - was literally just wondering how to mount the spare when i stumbled across your thread. Never thought to use the factory unused LC spare tire winch. SMART!!!!
I also keep a ratchet strap on it just in case.
I like that it keeps the center of gravity low
I added this cool Expedition Outfitters awning bracket
Nice trailer. And I'm going to steal some ideas for mine.
Question, how did you mount the box on the outside front corner?
It's bolted to the tub.
What Yakima towers did you use?
The awning is a game changer...I use a full set of tapered walls....love em'.