Build Lynchburg Lemonade, matzell's STW

[Bripars40]

A couple of quick notes.
front axle will be in the same position it was with the 2 1/2" springs. I do not want to cut on the front fenders any more if I do not have to.
the front drive shaft has a slight bind at the upper yoke at T-case. I can grind a 1/16 off and it will be smooth.
I set the front pinion angle at 6 deg up at ride height.

I can get measurements on where I cut the radius arm brackets to meet at the body mount outrigger.
I had to angle the frame side mounts out about a 1/4". I did not take into account that the frame curves in and the arms would point inwards too much. I had to cut the tack welds off and adjust. I also notched the flange and bent it inwards in the vise to fill the void between the mount and the frame. I did not get any pics but if you do this you will see what I mean.

I played around with the pandhard bar. Looks like it will work perfect. I am going to put the slee diy adjuster in. I need to get the steering in to get the angle of the drag link before installing the pandhard so I get the angle correct.

Let me know if anyone has any questions

Thanks for the update! I’m interested in following your lead since I have the parts sitting in the shop. Measurements for the bracket trimming would be great.

 

[clrussell]

I
Assume the brackets you posted are 80 series frame brackets?

 

[matzell]

I
Assume the brackets you posted are 80 series frame brackets?

Yes. Factory 80 series. Part number in the pics. they are the same left and right. I hit the easy button, rather than making them,

 

[clrussell]

Yes. Factory 80 series. Part number in the pics. they are the same left and right. I hit the easy button, rather than making them,

Thank you. I do believe I’ll follow your lead on that. I was trying to figure out frame side brackets.

 

[matzell]

Thank you. I do believe I’ll follow your lead on that. I was trying to figure out frame side brackets.

Here are some measurements from the piece I cut off. You can see the flange I was talking about.

Figure 1/8 for saw blade. I chucked it up in my band saw.

Call it 2.5" off bracket.

 

[matzell]

After double checking my depth and cutting another cut about 3/16 inward and a LOT of heat, I was able to get the balls to turn. I set both the same. 6.1 deg back. I need to find some 16mm or 5/8 weld washers. The brackets holes are a little bigger and I am getting about 1.3 deg of rotation out of it. I am hoping to settle on 5.5 -6.0 deg of caster at ride height.

I used a 4plus axle sleeve to figure cut depth.

 

[matzell]

I do feel like I am cheatin using the lift

I also checked and the panhard bar and draglink should both be 32", so I hope to have almost zero bump steer.

 

[matzell]

I searched my stash of "race car" fab parts amd found some 5/8 weld washers. These are from Ruff Stuff. Thry are designed to add strength and can repair oblong holes

 

[Broski]

I do feel like I am cheatin using the lift

I also checked and the panhard bar and draglink should both be 32", so I hope to have almost zero bump steer.

View attachment 4087759

Just curious, The Delta reinforcement plates come in different sizes to fit the 80 axle.
Did you start with a stock set or were you able to get all one size ?
I’m assuming you’re going to add the 4th plate next to the diff.

 

[clrussell]

Thanks for the above info.

Looks like clearance on the diff housing is close.

Did you get delta to special cut the radius arm mounts? I didn’t see them on their site

 

[fjdiesel]

Thanks for the above info.

Looks like clearance on the diff housing is close.

Did you get delta to special cut the radius arm mounts? I didn’t see them on their site

I wonder if a person could outboard the rear mount a bit to gain some clearance at the diff? Maybe not necessary.

 

[matzell]

Just curious, The Delta reinforcement plates come in different sizes to fit the 80 axle.
Did you start with a stock set or were you able to get all one size ?
I’m assuming you’re going to add the 4th plate next to the diff.

I had them send me a set of 4 all the same without the extra cut out. Looking back, it may have been better to have it, but I was not at the sure the angles. I will have to cut out the bracket to make it fit.

Yes all one size. They had no problem with this when I told them what I wanted to do. I do plan to box the tops in to help support them better.

Yes, I need to cut out the bracket to make it fit the tube. That will be up soon.

 

[matzell]

Thanks for the above info.

Looks like clearance on the diff housing is close.

Did you get delta to special cut the radius arm mounts? I didn’t see them on their site

It is actually not that close. The mounts landed where the stock perch was, so you could look at that and figure it out. I can get a measurement from end of ball to mount and also I will show diff side mount once it is burned in.

I ordered a set of 4 the same.

 

[matzell]

I wonder if a person could outboard the rear mount a bit to gain some clearance at the diff? Maybe not necessary.

See above post, picture is deceiving.

 

[Broski]

You may know this stuff already. Guys bevel the tops of the control arms to keep them for binding and help with articulation. I know this is not a hard core crawler but I think in your case it would help keep the stress down on the mounts.
I would also consider adding knuckle gussets that run all the way to the control arm mounts, easily made out of angle iron. They would add a ton of support.

 

[matzell]

You may know this stuff already. Guys bevel the tops of the control arms to keep them for binding and help with articulation. I know this is not a hard core crawler but I think in your case it would help keep the stress down on the mounts.
I would also consider adding knuckle gussets that run all the way to the control arm mounts, easily made out of angle iron. They would add a ton of support.

Thank you. Do you have a pic of beveling the top of the control arms?

I plan to add gussets and all that fun stuff when I pull the housing out to finish welding.

 

[clrussell]

You may know this stuff already. Guys bevel the tops of the control arms to keep them for binding and help with articulation. I know this is not a hard core crawler but I think in your case it would help keep the stress down on the mounts.
I would also consider adding knuckle gussets that run all the way to the control arm mounts, easily made out of angle iron. They would add a ton of support.

Such as this?

Rampt Customs Toyota 80/105 Landcruiser Knuckle Gussets

The Rampt Customs Knuckle Gusset kits are a little different from others. Instead of some chunky 10-12mm plate welded to the bottom of the knuckleball, this kit is designed to give maximum support for the axle housing. The two-piece lower plates are welded together to form a triangle or V shape...

offroadaddiction.tv

 

[Broski]

Such as this?

Rampt Customs Toyota 80/105 Landcruiser Knuckle Gussets

The Rampt Customs Knuckle Gusset kits are a little different from others. Instead of some chunky 10-12mm plate welded to the bottom of the knuckleball, this kit is designed to give maximum support for the axle housing. The two-piece lower plates are welded together to form a triangle or V shape...

offroadaddiction.tv

Exactly

 

[Broski]

Thank you. Do you have a pic of beveling the top of the control arms?

Let me look.

 

[matzell]

I will not have the coil mounts on top of the axle and planned to put my gussetts up top and then build shock mounts on the back side of the axle housing. Angle iron has been used for along time on axle housing, drag links, tie rods, control arms etc over the years. Always good stuff.

Keep the suggestions coming. This will not be "hard core" to some but this truck was built to wheel, so it will see some action.