Lx570 Towing Help (pass some knowledge to a young guy)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Dec 26, 2025
Threads
5
Messages
49
Location
arkansas
Hey all, recently bought a 2014 LX570 with 140k miles after selling my 03 sequoia. Changed every fluid, new brakes, and headlight bulbs.

Plan to tow my 2013 ford focus ST around 1000 miles when we move at the end of the month, using uhal car trailer (not a dolly). I’ve see lots of post for the LC about towing, but not many about the LX specifically. Any advice? ECT positions, tire psi, tips on correct tongue weight with AHC active? Any help is appreciated. TIA!


Edit to address some questions:
I’m somewhere in the mild range of towing experience. Grew up on a farm and have some experience with low speed, off-road towing, and for on road experience pulled a small U-Haul trailer behind our GX 460 a couple years ago and that thing was so light that it was just like driving the GX 460 by itself. I have a modern amount of mechanical experience working on my own vehicles growing up and regularly consume content from things like fastening truck on all their tow tests and the Ike gauntlet they do. Gonna be towing from Arkansas to Salt Lake City, so I expect the grades in the Rockies to be steep enough to need downshifting even with such a light load.

IMG_2748.webp
 
Last edited:
Hey all, recently bought a 2014 LX570 with 140k miles after selling my 03 sequoia. Changed every fluid, new brakes, and headlight bulbs.

Plan to tow my 2013 ford focus ST around 1000 miles when we move at the end of the month, using uhal car trailer (not a dolly). I’ve see lots of post for the LC about towing, but not many about the LX specifically. Any advice? ECT positions, tire psi, tips on correct tongue weight with AHC active? Any help is appreciated. TIA!

View attachment 4153317

Literally hitch up and go. The LX will make super easy work of it and require nothing special.

If you want to optimize that tiny bit more
- Bump rear tire pressures to ~35PSI
- Use a trailer ball hitch that will keep the ball close and tight to the bumper. Since the rear won't sag, it's easy to know how much hitch drop you need. Top of ball should be at ~18.5" from ground
- Load your Focus engine forward. Contrary to beginner logic, tongue weight is good for stability so load the car all the way forward against the stops as designed.
- Usual recommendation is to not use overdrive, and use sport shift mode. This sounds like super easy work, I'm not sure I'd bother, or use S5.

Uhaul trailers are super robust and stable. Built in surge brakes so nothing to bother with in regards to brake controller. They even have a new model out (that I have yet to try). Doesn't matter, it'll tow great.

On long downhills, downshifting is critical. Downshift enough so the rig holds speed and doesn't continue to accelerate. Doesn't matter if that means 5000rpm in 2nd gear (I doubt you'll experience those sort of grades and the load isn't particularly heavy).
 
It’s not clear whether this will be your first time towing? If so, take it easy. Plan for extra time, both for lower speeds and extra gas stops. I agree with @TeCKis300 the LX will handle the ~4000 lbs with ease, but you’ll feel that weight and you’ll need some time to get used to it.
 
Literally hitch up and go. The LX will make super easy work of it and require nothing special.

If you want to optimize that tiny bit more
- Bump rear tire pressures to ~35PSI
- Use a trailer ball hitch that will keep the ball close and tight to the bumper. Since the rear won't sag, it's easy to know how much hitch drop you need. Top of ball should be at ~18.5" from ground
- Load your Focus engine forward. Contrary to beginner logic, tongue weight is good for stability so load the car all the way forward against the stops as designed.
- Usual recommendation is to not use overdrive, and use sport shift mode. This sounds like super easy work, I'm not sure I'd bother, or use S5.

Uhaul trailers are super robust and stable. Built in surge brakes so nothing to bother with in regards to brake controller. They even have a new model out (that I have yet to try). Doesn't matter, it'll tow great.

On long downhills, downshifting is critical. Downshift enough so the rig holds speed and doesn't continue to accelerate. Doesn't matter if that means 5000rpm in 2nd gear (I doubt you'll experience those sort of grades and the load isn't particularly heavy).
Thank you for the detailed response, this is what makes this form so great. I particularly appreciate the tip about loading the focus as far forward as possible that is not something I had considered and was going to try balancing the tongue way more but I will take your recommendation to have as much tongue weight as possible.

And when you say sport shift mode are you referring to the PWR setting on the ECT controller or putting the transmission in standard mode and manually shifting?

And thankfully, since I’ve driven manual transmission car for over a decade I’m very comfortable with a concept of downshifting and it cracks me up when people act like high. RPMs are bad for the engine when using its control speeds downhill, I float shift in the focus ST all the time and I love introducing that concept to people I’ve never seen it before. I spent a lot of time around people, driving big rigs, and picked up some habits for better or worse. I love a flying J or loves.
 
Last edited:
It’s not clear whether this will be your first time towing? If so, take it easy. Plan for extra time, both for lower speeds and extra gas stops. I agree with @TeCKis300 the LX will handle the ~4000 lbs with ease, but you’ll feel that weight and you’ll need some time to get used to it.
I edited my original statement to give some background information to everybody else, it’s my first time towing a car, but I have some small background in farm equipment and moving things around at low speeds. And I grew up in a family with trucker, so I am very prepared to have extra space between me and other cars for the increased breaking distance and the general lethargy that comes with pulling a load and the safety adjustments from normal driving to towing, and I think that it is always good to be reminded of the fundamentals.

Is something that I am quite interested in right now I get about 17 miles of a gallon driving roughly 190 miles to work back a day on the interstate around 80 miles an hour.

Towing expect it closer to 10 or single digits with the elevation change once I get to the Rockies. And I’m trying to guesstimate how much of a tank that will be without having done any of the math yet I’m guessing I’ll get 200 miles out of a tank if I’m lucky.

Do you have any advice on a comfortable speed with that load is 70 miles an hour still comfortable with a load like this in a general sense?
 
Literally hitch up and go. The LX will make super easy work of it and require nothing special.

If you want to optimize that tiny bit more
- Bump rear tire pressures to ~35PSI
- Use a trailer ball hitch that will keep the ball close and tight to the bumper. Since the rear won't sag, it's easy to know how much hitch drop you need. Top of ball should be at ~18.5" from ground
- Load your Focus engine forward. Contrary to beginner logic, tongue weight is good for stability so load the car all the way forward against the stops as designed.
- Usual recommendation is to not use overdrive, and use sport shift mode. This sounds like super easy work, I'm not sure I'd bother, or use S5.

Uhaul trailers are super robust and stable. Built in surge brakes so nothing to bother with in regards to brake controller. They even have a new model out (that I have yet to try). Doesn't matter, it'll tow great.

On long downhills, downshifting is critical. Downshift enough so the rig holds speed and doesn't continue to accelerate. Doesn't matter if that means 5000rpm in 2nd gear (I doubt you'll experience those sort of grades and the load isn't particularly heavy).
thanks for the tips. one of my goals is to tow one of my P-cars out west from Texas. I am trying to figure out which trailer to use.
 
This is not going to be a 4000lb load. The new Uhaul trailer is 3155lbs empty and a Ford Focus ST is 3223lbs minimum. So it is going to be a about 6500lbs still in range for the 200 series but it will be a decent load. Just be very smart about things. Work up to speed it might comfortable at 50mph it might be 75mph.
 
When I tow my 6000lb Airstream, I find speed to be the biggest influence on MPG. Unfortunately, I have trouble going 65 on the interstate, especially if I have a long way to go. :rolleyes:
 
This is not going to be a 4000lb load. The new Uhaul trailer is 3155lbs empty and a Ford Focus ST is 3223lbs minimum. So it is going to be a about 6500lbs still in range for the 200 series but it will be a decent load. Just be very smart about things. Work up to speed it might comfortable at 50mph it might be 75mph.
Yeah, my math is somewhere around 5500 pounds with the U-Haul trailer that is available to me plus the focus. I’m very curious to see how this platform tows and excited to track the MPG’s at the pump and it’s stability at interstate speed, along with the ability to handle grades both up and downhill
 
MPG will be ~11 depending on speed, grade, and wind. Travel trailers have much larger frontal areas and aero load by comparison. You should be able to make 200-230 miles per tank while leaving some reserve.

Feel the trailer out and if it feels stable, it is. Legalities aside, 75MPH is no problem. If there's any instability (there shouldn't be), don't disregard it, slow down and check for fundamentals like having enough tongue weight, tires/tire pressure, hitch setup. Check your speed when approaching downgrades as that's usually the critical moment for sway incidents where the trailer has excess momentum, hitch lash-up transitions from tension (pull) to surge (push), combined with cross-winds when exiting the wind shadow of freeway hill cuts.

Yes, use ECT Power as that'll give you better throttle tip in response and gear logic.

Yes, Sport shift mode for manual shifting. The easiest interpretation of the S-modes is that it'll auto-shift as normal but limit the highest gear selection to the S-number. Example S4, it will not use a gear higher than 4.

thanks for the tips. one of my goals is to tow one of my P-cars out west from Texas. I am trying to figure out which trailer to use.

Works great, engine forward. Mine is pretty low so I had a couple sections of 4x4 to block the wheels from the stops for clearance.
1780671940789.webp


This is not going to be a 4000lb load. The new Uhaul trailer is 3155lbs empty and a Ford Focus ST is 3223lbs minimum. So it is going to be a about 6500lbs still in range for the 200 series but it will be a decent load. Just be very smart about things. Work up to speed it might comfortable at 50mph it might be 75mph.

I had to check as I don't recall them being that heavy. Looks like they have a newer "Toy Hauler" trailer for heavier vehicles which is the 3,155lbs weight you quoted. The Standard Auto Transport is 2,210lbs.
 
Last edited:
MPG will be ~11 depending on speed, grade, and wind. Travel trailers have much larger frontal areas and aero load by comparison. You should be able to make 200-230 miles per tank while leaving some reserve.

Feel the trailer out and if it feels stable, it is. Legalities aside, 75MPH is no problem. If there's any instability (there shouldn't be), don't disregard it, slow down and check for fundamentals like having enough tongue weight, tires/tire pressure, hitch setup. Check your speed when approaching downgrades as that's usually the critical moment for sway incidents where the trailer has excess momentum, hitch lash-up transitions from tension (pull) to surge (push), combined with cross-winds when exiting the wind shadow of freeway hill cuts.

Yes, use ECT Power as that'll give you better throttle tip in response and gear logic.

Yes, Sport shift mode for manual shifting. The easiest interpretation of the S-modes is that it'll auto-shift as normal but limit the highest gear selection to the S-number. Example S4, it will not use a gear higher than 4.



Works great, engine forward. Mine is pretty low so I had a couple sections of 4x4 to block the wheels from the stops for clearance.
View attachment 4153501



I had to check as I don't recall them being that heavy. Looks like they have a newer "Toy Hauler" trailer for heavier vehicles which is the 3,155lbs weight you quoted. The Standard Auto Transport is 2,210lbs.
Ya the trailer I’m getting is the 2210, not the toy hauler for RZR’s. Oh that’s interesting. I had not read about the shifting in the owners manual yet I didn’t realize that putting it into a certain number limited it as the top gear that’s actually a great idea as far as the programming goes. That’s an amazing piece of information. Make sure sharing that even if it’s probably pretty common, I didn’t know it.
 
MPG will be ~11 depending on speed, grade, and wind. Travel trailers have much larger frontal areas and aero load by comparison. You should be able to make 200-230 miles per tank while leaving some reserve.

Feel the trailer out and if it feels stable, it is. Legalities aside, 75MPH is no problem. If there's any instability (there shouldn't be), don't disregard it, slow down and check for fundamentals like having enough tongue weight, tires/tire pressure, hitch setup. Check your speed when approaching downgrades as that's usually the critical moment for sway incidents where the trailer has excess momentum, hitch lash-up transitions from tension (pull) to surge (push), combined with cross-winds when exiting the wind shadow of freeway hill cuts.

Yes, use ECT Power as that'll give you better throttle tip in response and gear logic.

Yes, Sport shift mode for manual shifting. The easiest interpretation of the S-modes is that it'll auto-shift as normal but limit the highest gear selection to the S-number. Example S4, it will not use a gear higher than 4.



Works great, engine forward. Mine is pretty low so I had a couple sections of 4x4 to block the wheels from the stops for clearance.
View attachment 4153501



I had to check as I don't recall them being that heavy. Looks like they have a newer "Toy Hauler" trailer for heavier vehicles which is the 3,155lbs weight you quoted. The Standard Auto Transport is 2,210lbs.
What if one of them has engine in the middle as god intended lol..
 
Definitely bring a good tire gauge and check the tires of the trailer before you take off. Quite common for one or more to not be at stated pressure, and it can make a huge difference in stability.
 
All good advice above, but way too much info and makes it complicated.

Here is what you want to hear... I did exactly what you want to do with a Camry a larger car than your Focus.

You literally hook up and go. Just drive as you prudently do, but keep in mind you need to take wider turns to avoid clipping something or someone. That's it.

Before you go get the trailer... Get the tow bar, pin and the ball. Get a harness adapter in case the trailer uses the 4 pin connector. Check to make sure your power connection under the bumper in the right is in good condition. Uhaul will hook up the trailer for you. They will not let you go if the electrical stuff is not hooked up and tested OK.

Tip... The uhaul trailer has wheel fenders. As it is you will not be able to open the door after you drive the car on. Before you load the car make sure you flip those fenders open. It is on the instructions papers somewhere.
 
Last edited:
Unless you drive for a long time on steep mountain passes, do not bother with the dowshift part. Just drive.

Yes, 70mph should be a good speed. BTW that might be speeding depending on the local laws, as a trailer puts you on the same speed limit with the trucks in some places.
 
Tip for first time towing... avoid getting in a situation when you have to backup, especially if that is on a bussy place or a tight place. Reversing is not intuitive and requires practice. You may want to play with that to get an idea before you load and go. Use empty parking lot or quiet secondary streets away from other (parked) cars.
Watch some YouTube video first.
 
Definitely bring a good tire gauge and check the tires of the trailer before you take off. Quite common for one or more to not be at stated pressure, and it can make a huge difference in stability.
Yes, sir, I always have a tire gauge and every vehicle I have as well as spare valve stem caps. But that is a great call. I would never would’ve thought to check the trailer tires on a rental so I will definitely do that. I’ll be bringing my air compressor with me just in case.
 
All good advice above, but way too much info and makes it complicated.

Here is what you want to hear... I did exactly what you want to do with a Camry a larger car than your Focus.

You literally hook up and go. Just drive as you prudently do, but keep in mind you need to take wider turns to avoid clipping something or someone. That's it.

Before you go get the trailer... Get the tow bar, pin and the ball. Get a harness adapter in case the trailer uses the 4 pin connector. Check to make sure your power connection under the bumper in the right is in good condition. Uhaul will hook up the trailer for you. They will not let you go if the electrical stuff is not hooked up and tested OK.

Tip... The uhaul trailer has wheel fenders. As it is you will not be able to open the door after you drive the car on. Before you load the car make sure you flip those fenders open. It is on the instructions papers somewhere.
That’s a great tip about the wheel fenders. I will take a note. I actually already took it to U-Haul to have have my trailer connector tested it all works out and on the LX 570 it’s a seven pin connector so I will just buy their $16 adapter because their trailer is a four pin I already have a ball sitting at the house that I plan to use. But those are all great checkpoints to get through.
 
Tip for first time towing... avoid getting in a situation when you have to backup, especially if that is on a bussy place or a tight place. Reversing is not intuitive and requires practice. You may want to play with that to get an idea before you load and go. Use empty parking lot or quiet secondary streets away from other (parked) cars.
Watch some YouTube video first.
I have reversed a decent amount of trailers, but not enough to be good at it lol. I am planning our rest stops and fuel at larger stations and will be on the lookout to only drive forward if possible. I can do it in a pinch, but I prefer not to. There’s a time and place to practice it and this is not that time.
 
Unless you drive for a long time on steep mountain passes, do not bother with the dowshift part. Just drive.

Yes, 70mph should be a good speed. BTW that might be speeding depending on the local laws, as a trailer puts you on the same speed limit with the trucks in some places.

I agree with everything you've said except this. Boy is this bad advice and might be the single most important life saving piece of knowledge for anyone towing.

He's going to be towing over 5500 lbs. Yes, the LX has some grade logic. But it is not tow logic and isn't aggressive enough for the Rockies and weight load he's carrying. Fortunately he's got good intuition having driven manuals.

Gonna be towing from Arkansas to Salt Lake City, so I expect the grades in the Rockies to be steep enough to need downshifting even with such a light load.
 
Back
Top Bottom