Dang
Build LX450 "Rex" Build
- Thread starter NeverFinis
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Tuning #2
- Thread starter
- #242
I recommend installing an extra O2 bung for a wideband O2 sensor when it is time to do the exhaust.
Theoretically one could tune just using Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT).
LTFT will tell you how far your tune is out.
Going by my original post, it looks like I left the tune slightly rich. Ideally, LTFT correction should be at or near 0. Slightly rich might be better during initial start/open loop though....
The above log was from this morning.
I accelerated hard, but not enough values were collected at high RPM to fill out the table. However, enough cells were collected to know that the tune is a tiny bit rich.
The negatives numbers is an indication that fuel is being pulled (i.e. rich).
Being within ±4% isn't horrible and is considered still normal. Horrible is being over ±10%.
But, I will probably now take 2% out of the MAF curve to get closer to 0 LTFM.
MAF stock vs tuned table graphed.
I originally increased the values in the stock MAF table by 73% due to the much larger air intake compared to stock.
Given that the tune is slightly rich, I will reduce the MAF table by 2% when I tune the engine next.
Theoretically one could tune just using Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT).
LTFT will tell you how far your tune is out.
Going by my original post, it looks like I left the tune slightly rich. Ideally, LTFT correction should be at or near 0. Slightly rich might be better during initial start/open loop though....
The above log was from this morning.
I accelerated hard, but not enough values were collected at high RPM to fill out the table. However, enough cells were collected to know that the tune is a tiny bit rich.
The negatives numbers is an indication that fuel is being pulled (i.e. rich).
Being within ±4% isn't horrible and is considered still normal. Horrible is being over ±10%.
But, I will probably now take 2% out of the MAF curve to get closer to 0 LTFM.
MAF stock vs tuned table graphed.
I originally increased the values in the stock MAF table by 73% due to the much larger air intake compared to stock.
Given that the tune is slightly rich, I will reduce the MAF table by 2% when I tune the engine next.
Tuning
- Thread starter
- #243
Update on LTFT after removing 2% from the MAF table.
This is just from the first drive. It will take a few hundred miles of driving for the LTFT table to settle.....and then I will check again.
See the above post for the previous LTFT.
This is just from the first drive. It will take a few hundred miles of driving for the LTFT table to settle.....and then I will check again.
See the above post for the previous LTFT.
Oil dipstick
- Thread starter
- #244
Comparison of 12625031 (tube) and 12669528 (dipstick), top in photo, with stock GM L96 engine dipstick/tube , bottom in photo.
I just noticed I didn't have the dipsticks fully inserted for the photo.
12669528 and 12625031 are used with Holley 302-1 and 302-2 oil pans and their knockoffs. Holley sells them together as 302-15 or you can buy the GM parts separately. One should use these to be able to utilize the full 5.5 quarts capacity of the oil pans.
I just noticed I didn't have the dipsticks fully inserted for the photo.
12669528 and 12625031 are used with Holley 302-1 and 302-2 oil pans and their knockoffs. Holley sells them together as 302-15 or you can buy the GM parts separately. One should use these to be able to utilize the full 5.5 quarts capacity of the oil pans.
- Thread starter
- #245
My relocated washer bottle developed a crack... no idea how it happened... 
I got a replacement washer bottle, installed it, and then I realized what happened
..luckily before I closed the hood.
The DeltaVS washer relocation bracket will let you install washer bottle at two different heights. Why? Not sure.
I had previously drilled a new hole to mount the washer bottle at the lower position when I originally installed it.
I completely forgot about the new hole when I went to reinstall the original Washer Bottle a second time.
Play Doh comes in handy when checkings clearances..
I got a replacement washer bottle, installed it, and then I realized what happened
..luckily before I closed the hood.The DeltaVS washer relocation bracket will let you install washer bottle at two different heights. Why? Not sure.
I had previously drilled a new hole to mount the washer bottle at the lower position when I originally installed it.
I completely forgot about the new hole when I went to reinstall the original Washer Bottle a second time.
Play Doh comes in handy when checkings clearances..
- Thread starter
- #246
It's been a while..
I replaced the original washer bottle with the smaller one, which gives more room for the wiring behind the LS fuse panel that I built.
Changed my air fitler after ~10,000 miles, which included a trip to Moab. Tons of bugs from driving through Kansas and Nebraska.
The air filter housing was clean on the engine side of the filter.
I decided to add an air filter monitor because the filter box is a pain to take apart.
Drilled a 11/16" hole, followed by a rubber grommet.
Filter monitor installed.
Hopefully it gives me an early warning of a clogged air filter.
I replaced the original washer bottle with the smaller one, which gives more room for the wiring behind the LS fuse panel that I built.
Changed my air fitler after ~10,000 miles, which included a trip to Moab. Tons of bugs from driving through Kansas and Nebraska.
The air filter housing was clean on the engine side of the filter.
I decided to add an air filter monitor because the filter box is a pain to take apart.
Drilled a 11/16" hole, followed by a rubber grommet.
Filter monitor installed.
Hopefully it gives me an early warning of a clogged air filter.
I forget you have a build thread.
- Thread starter
- #248
I noticed these gouges on my front driveshaft today. I did bottom out the suspension at Cruise Moab multiple times.
The only thing I can think of is the driveshaft is hitting the bell housing under full compression.
They're maybe some witness marks on the bell housing. See the shiny... but the area on the bell housing is only about a inch long while the marks are the driveshaft are further apart..
I am thinking of using Timbren bump stops up front, and/or clearancing the bell housing.
I will pull the front springs and check clearance there.
The only thing I can think of is the driveshaft is hitting the bell housing under full compression.
They're maybe some witness marks on the bell housing. See the shiny... but the area on the bell housing is only about a inch long while the marks are the driveshaft are further apart..
I am thinking of using Timbren bump stops up front, and/or clearancing the bell housing.
I will pull the front springs and check clearance there.
Hmmm
Let me guess.. Delta's skid plate or roof rack. You already have the fancy front and rear bumpers.
- Thread starter
- #252
Reading back..I did buy and install Timbren Front Bump Stops. No photo yet. Simple install.
I didn't post about this here, but I had a no-start issue on the way to Cruise Moab. It would come and go, but I was able to start the motor by bypassing the Toyota ignition. LS FTW.
Other circuits also stopped working, but I was able to pull power from a working circuit to get them working.
In the above photo was my 2,300 miles from home fix..
I pulled power from the Defog circuit to power the Gauge, Turn, and IGN circuits. I changed it a bit later to also have A/C and I didn't need to power the IGN circuit as I first thought...
Note: Trying to diagnose the issue by reading a schematic on a phone sucks big time. I need to print out, and laminate the main circuit from the EWD...
It was also hard to track down because all of a sudden everything would start working again...
At Cruise Moab, @Delta VS kindly offered to loan me a fusible link, but I didn't think it was the problem.
Now at home, the truck had the issue again, and it persisted long enough for me to diagnose the issue.
Traced in red are the circuits that lost power.
It was finding out that the FL Power Circuit had no power that helped me track down the problem.
FL Power powers the windows, seats, locks and moonroof. It doesn't pass through the Ignition Switch, which rules that out.
The only connection that is between FL Power Circuit and the fusible links is EA2.
EA2 hides under the fusebox in the engine bay.
Everytime I touched EA2 connector, the circuit would drop or come back... I was using the wipers as an indicator for when the circuit was working..easily seen from the engine bay.
The harness above EA2, which connects to EA1 or EA3, shouldn't be laying on top of EA2.
I must have misrouted the top harness when I was rebuilding the truck. I would to see how it was originally routed...
The fusebox pressed down on it as well. I also don't think EA2 was clicked together...it is now.
As an aside, my windows are working faster as I must have had a voltage drop due to the weak connection at EA2. @PIP Window Rocket is working brilliantly now...
I didn't post about this here, but I had a no-start issue on the way to Cruise Moab. It would come and go, but I was able to start the motor by bypassing the Toyota ignition. LS FTW.
Other circuits also stopped working, but I was able to pull power from a working circuit to get them working.
In the above photo was my 2,300 miles from home fix..
I pulled power from the Defog circuit to power the Gauge, Turn, and IGN circuits. I changed it a bit later to also have A/C and I didn't need to power the IGN circuit as I first thought...
Note: Trying to diagnose the issue by reading a schematic on a phone sucks big time. I need to print out, and laminate the main circuit from the EWD...
It was also hard to track down because all of a sudden everything would start working again...
At Cruise Moab, @Delta VS kindly offered to loan me a fusible link, but I didn't think it was the problem.
Now at home, the truck had the issue again, and it persisted long enough for me to diagnose the issue.
Traced in red are the circuits that lost power.
It was finding out that the FL Power Circuit had no power that helped me track down the problem.
FL Power powers the windows, seats, locks and moonroof. It doesn't pass through the Ignition Switch, which rules that out.
The only connection that is between FL Power Circuit and the fusible links is EA2.
EA2 hides under the fusebox in the engine bay.
Everytime I touched EA2 connector, the circuit would drop or come back... I was using the wipers as an indicator for when the circuit was working..easily seen from the engine bay.
The harness above EA2, which connects to EA1 or EA3, shouldn't be laying on top of EA2.
I must have misrouted the top harness when I was rebuilding the truck. I would to see how it was originally routed...
The fusebox pressed down on it as well. I also don't think EA2 was clicked together...it is now.
As an aside, my windows are working faster as I must have had a voltage drop due to the weak connection at EA2. @PIP Window Rocket is working brilliantly now...
Do you need a picture of how the wiring is supposed to be routed? I have an lx in my shop for a swap I can take a look .
- Thread starter
- #254
I'll check later tonight