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Mine would just slowly rise higher and higher. If I reved it to 800rpm it would slowly drop.
Dang
I recommend installing an extra O2 bung for a wideband O2 sensor when it is time to do the exhaust.
Theoretically one could tune just using Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT).
LTFT will tell you how far your tune is out.
Going by my original post, it looks like I left the tune slightly rich. Ideally, LTFT correction should be at or near 0. Slightly rich might be better during initial start/open loop though....
The above log was from this morning.
I accelerated hard, but not enough values were collected at high RPM to fill out the table. However, enough cells were collected to know that the tune is a tiny bit rich.
The negatives numbers is an indication that fuel is being pulled (i.e. rich).
Being within ±4% isn't horrible and is considered still normal. Horrible is being over ±10%.
But, I will probably now take 2% out of the MAF curve to get closer to 0 LTFM.
MAF stock vs tuned table graphed.
I originally increased the values in the stock MAF table by 73% due to the much larger air intake compared to stock.
Given that the tune is slightly rich, I will reduce the MAF table by 2% when I tune the engine next.
Update on LTFT after removing 2% from the MAF table.
This is just from the first drive. It will take a few hundred miles of driving for the LTFT table to settle.....and then I will check again.
See the above post for the previous LTFT.
Comparison of 12625031 (tube) and 12669528 (dipstick), top in photo, with stock GM L96 engine dipstick/tube , bottom in photo.
I just noticed I didn't have the dipsticks fully inserted for the photo.
12669528 and 12625031 are used with Holley 302-1 and 302-2 oil pans and their knockoffs. Holley sells them together as
302-15 or you can buy the GM parts separately. One should use these to be able to utilize the full 5.5 quarts capacity of the oil pans.
It's been a while..
I replaced the original washer bottle with the smaller one, which gives more room for the wiring behind the LS fuse panel that I built.
Changed my air fitler after ~10,000 miles, which included a trip to Moab. Tons of bugs from driving through Kansas and Nebraska.
The air filter housing was clean on the engine side of the filter.
I decided to add an air filter monitor because the filter box is a pain to take apart.
Drilled a 11/16" hole, followed by a rubber grommet.
Filter monitor installed.
Hopefully it gives me an early warning of a clogged air filter.
I forget you have a build thread.
I noticed these gouges on my front driveshaft today. I did bottom out the suspension at Cruise Moab multiple times.
The only thing I can think of is the driveshaft is hitting the bell housing under full compression.
They're maybe some witness marks on the bell housing. See the shiny... but the area on the bell housing is only about a inch long while the marks are the driveshaft are further apart..
I am thinking of using Timbren bump stops up front, and/or clearancing the bell housing.
I will pull the front springs and check clearance there.