Lost all my coolant

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Joined
Sep 19, 2023
Threads
2
Messages
8
Location
Tennessee
Hey guys I need help. Coolant came pouring out at the back drivers side of my motor today. It’s raining so everything underneath is wet already and can’t tell where it’s coming from. Here’s some picture from the engine bay.

I had the valve cover gaskets replaced around October of 2023 along with the ignition coils.

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IMG_1882.webp


IMG_1883.webp
 
there are 2 "T"s at the rear of the engine near the firewall, my WAG is 1 of them broke. they are plastic,
looking in from the front grill, the "T"s are about 1 oclock

hopefully you didn't overheat the engine

a good idea is to change the "T"s when the timing belt is done
 
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there are 2 "T"s at the rear of the engine near the firewall, my WAG is 1 of them broke. they are plastic,
looking in from the front grill, the "T"s are about 1 oclock

hopefully you didn't overheat the engine

a good idea is to change the "T"s when the timing belt is done
Looks like you guessed it. Got home after a few stops and starts to let the temp drop back down. Let it cool again and then started and found steam streaming from the driverside T.

IMG_1887.jpeg
 

OEM or OEM spec metal
 
make sure to use a shop vac on those hoses before you install the new Ts, there's a pretty good chance that there is plastic debris from the old ones inside those hoses, especially since you were driving.

My strong recommendation is metal option.
 
But you will need to replace OEM clamps with worm clamps if you go with the metal option.
 
You’ll need two: 8724860460. OEM is good enough for me. I wouldn’t introduce dissimilar metals in the system for fear of introducing new and exciting corrosion mechanisms.
 
But you will need to replace OEM clamps with worm clamps if you go with the metal option.
Not exactly true if using the oem spec metal ones that patch sells. They are almost identical in size/shape, just metal.
 
Not exactly true if using the oem spec metal ones that patch sells. They are almost identical in size/shape, just metal.
Not according to my first post in thread below asking Patch this quesiton. People have been using metal Ts for awhile but I've never seen or heard of one that is exactly the size of OEM plastic Ts that do not require a tighter clamp.....Which is why I asked him.

"almost identical in size/shape" is why the OEM clamps will not work properly.

 
Not according to my first post in thread below asking Patch this quesiton. People have been using metal Ts for awhile but I've never seen or heard of one that is exactly the size of OEM plastic Ts that do not require a tighter clamp.....Which is why I asked him.

"almost identical in size/shape" is why the OEM clamps will not work properly.


Well I stand corrected. I totally read his post wrong and was thinking they fit with OEM clamps.

Which sucks because I have his kit (with metal T's) sitting in a box.

I'll just get the plastic ones again and be done.

Thanks for the heads up because this probably saved me some aggravation down the road.
 
Here is from my order. Remember, the lower part of the T uses the larger clamp. Order shows 8 of each because I wasn't sure.

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Truth is…. with OEM plastic Ts and same OEM clamps takes 30 minutes of work every 10 or so years
 
Truth is…. with OEM plastic Ts and same OEM clamps takes 30 minutes of work every 10 or so years

For sure. I did OEM T's on mine about 9 years ago.

They're probably still fine but I saw these shiny metal ones... :bang:
 
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