Long Travel AHC

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Expoguy said:
Sorry I haven't been on here in a while and just saw this. I finally installed rear shock mounts and have Timbren active bumps. You think I still need to limit travel in front or rear having the Timbren?? I am almost done screwing things up and would like to check AHC pressure. If you are able or willing to do that I would be happy to drive to you and pay for your time.

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Rig is looking good!! Looks like sliders are just about on. I'm not as familiar with the Timbrens and looks like others have you covered her.

I'll PM you my number and see when we can get together. Busy this month with lots of family visits and vacations but we'll work something out. We need to get a local SD Cruiser trip together!
 
You need a spacer. And you will still rub even with it with an aggressive 35.

I had a 1 in spacer in for a while and then stepped down to 1/2 in and the 1/2 inch is perfect IMO. Both spacers are made by Timbren.

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Maybe I'm misinterpreting what @Expoguy is asking, but I thought he was asking if he needs more bump stop besides the Timbrens to keep the shock from over compressing after doing the shock mount mod. Not to keep tires from rubbing.

@TeCKis300 or @turbo8 could remind me again- I know it's been posted a million times, but I've seen things that both confirm and deny/confuse my prior knowledge. I thought there was essentially ~1.75" of unused up travel in the shock with stock bumps. Stock frame bumps measure 2" and compress to 1.75". The Timbrens being 4.75" and compressing to 2.75", possibly as low at 2.5", should limit travel enough compared to stock to not fear over compression, right? I thought the shock mount mod is gaining 1.75" and the unused travel was 1.75" it should be safe to use just the Timbrens from my understanding. What am I missing here??
 
Jason Andrews said:
Maybe I'm misinterpreting what @Expoguy is asking, but I thought he was asking if he needs more bump stop besides the Timbrens to keep the shock from over compressing after doing the shock mount mod. Not to keep tires from rubbing.

@TeCKis300 or @turbo8 could remind me again- I know it's been posted a million times, but I've seen things that both confirm and deny/confuse my prior knowledge. I thought there was essentially ~1.75" of unused up travel in the shock with stock bumps. Stock frame bumps measure 2" and compress to 1.75". The Timbrens being 4.75" and compressing to 2.75", possibly as low at 2.5", should limit travel enough compared to stock to not fear over compression, right? I thought the shock mount mod is gaining 1.75" and the unused travel was 1.75" it should be safe to use just the Timbrens from my understanding. What am I missing here??
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That's sound correct to me and don't want limit travel where it's not necessary. I wonder about the front struts with 20mm of spacer and Timbren in front bump location ?
 
Jason Andrews said:
Maybe I'm misinterpreting what @Expoguy is asking, but I thought he was asking if he needs more bump stop besides the Timbrens to keep the shock from over compressing after doing the shock mount mod. Not to keep tires from rubbing.

@TeCKis300 or @turbo8 could remind me again- I know it's been posted a million times, but I've seen things that both confirm and deny/confuse my prior knowledge. I thought there was essentially ~1.75" of unused up travel in the shock with stock bumps. Stock frame bumps measure 2" and compress to 1.75". The Timbrens being 4.75" and compressing to 2.75", possibly as low at 2.5", should limit travel enough compared to stock to not fear over compression, right? I thought the shock mount mod is gaining 1.75" and the unused travel was 1.75" it should be safe to use just the Timbrens from my understanding. What am I missing here??
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Yes, lots of things mixed up in there that would be good to unpack.

From my gross measurements, I'm showing 45mm "unused". The reality is there's probably more like 25mm of unused if accounting for extreme situation using all available jounce/bump/and shock stop. For things like extreme jumping, crossed up, which I do not do. Intentionally at least.

Bump stops should soften the g-out. Limit stops should protect hardware.

However you want to choose to do that.

Then there's more external things like needing to limit uptravel for tires with aggressive offsets against the fenders.

Personally, I'm not a fan of large stops like the Timbren Activebumps. The normal suspension with springs and shocks should do the job of the tuned suspension. Stops come into play only in the last part of travel. At least that my opinion not having used Activebumps before. As they engage early, they should probably do well to protect hardware at the limit.
 
At the end of the day, you need to space your bump stop down in the rear of the truck. Or beat the s*** out of the fender well sheet metal with a bfh to gain the necessary clearance to properly wheel with a true 35in plus tire.

The bump stop drop of .5 inches serves this purpose when you pair 35s with a lower shock mount relocation. I still rub my rears full flexing in N but it’s negligible.

I can’t even begin to comprehend how you would wheel hard with 37s and no BL/cutting.
 
Expoguy said:
I am not sure myself and need to investigate
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In the 100 series, Techstream attempted to "snapshot" the max pressure for each axle during a lift and it output a somewhat reasonably accurate number for what the pressure was on each axle.

On the 200, there is a data point for system pressure, but the ECU makes no attempts at snapshotting a max pressure and also doesn't split pressure running at each axle. Also because of the way the system is designed and the location of the pressure sensor, pressure is only measured while the pump is engaged. With the slow updating of the data list in Techstream for the AHC module, it's pretty difficult to get an accurate reading for max pressure. You have to hope an update hits at the right time and that you aren't getting a pressure reading for while the accumulator is filling up, and then you still aren't getting a reading per axle, just the pressure on which ever corners are being lifted during the data point update.
 
Working on installing the rear shock extensions from @turbo8 and wanted to lower the sway bar to account for the extra flex. Found these here, and I think they fit the bill. I went with the 0-2” bracket which should account for the extra droop gained

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nwfl4runner said:
Working on installing the rear shock extensions from @turbo8 and wanted to lower the sway bar to account for the extra flex. Found these here, and I think they fit the bill. I went with the 0-2” bracket which should account for the extra droop gained

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Great find, would love to know if it makes a difference.
 
nwfl4runner said:
Working on installing the rear shock extensions from @turbo8 and wanted to lower the sway bar to account for the extra flex. Found these here, and I think they fit the bill. I went with the 0-2” bracket which should account for the extra droop gained

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Nice, didn't know those those existed! Great clean way to do it.

I never got a pic of mine but I did space down the factory mount about 1/2". 1/4" spacer on each bolt that mounts to the frame. Then spaced the sway end link on the top mount with a 1/4" washer. Seems to be working well.
 
I wasn't sure where to ask this question, so I'll just throw it up here:

If I disconnect the front shocks to remove the coilovers and add a spacer, how much AHC juice can I expect to lose? Will I have to bleed the whole system, or can I just bleed the fronts? I did a full AHC flush and bleed less than 10k ago. Hoping to minimize costs - mainly because I'm still iffy on whether I intend to keep the AHC long-term.
 
The last time I worked on the AHC system, I replaced an actuator for one of the front shocks. I put the suspension in "high" and supported the LX as close to that height that I could with jack stands. I then opened the bleeder valve for that shock until the vehicle came to rest on the jack stands, quickly closing it afterwards. Since I pretty much had it resting on jack stands anyway, I lost very little fluid through suspension compression when I did the part replacement.
 
And I don't think there is any issue with salvaging the fluid out of the bleeder as long as you are using clean things to capture it.
 
Just have a can on hand. More than enough… bleed into clean vessels and use a clean pump to fill the resi.

You do need to bleed the system after the work has been done a few times. But you don’t have to flush a full fluid cycle.

If I remembered I would tell you how much. But I’ve done this a few times now and always had one can on hand and never went through all of it.
 
This has been touched on a bit in this thread, but looking for easiest answer possible, with some details.

I need to order extended brake lines. Are the kits from SDHQ/SLEE that says they do 2” enough to cover the front and rear?

I saw the link for Crown lines as well where I can contact them. If I’m doing that, I just want to make sure I understand what I need.

There are 6 lines total in these kits. For the front a soft line at each wheel to go from the frame to the caliper. In the rear 2 lines that go from the frame to the axle and then 2 more lines that go from the axle connection to each caliper. I assume only the frame to caliper on the front and the frame to axle lines need to be extended?

So the questions are, if I go the crown route, is 2” enough, or should I ask for 3 or 4”? Or if 2” is enough, do the SDHQ/SLEE lines have 2” extension at all 4 spots needed.

Thanks in advance.

I have the E&E Offroad rear lower shock mount bracket and have 20mm of front spacer I plan to install. It seems like neither of those parts is adding more than 2”, so I would assume the 2” kit is enough. (For completeness, I have the PerryParts bump stops for front and rear)
 
lx200inAR said:
This has been touched on a bit in this thread, but looking for easiest answer possible, with some details.

I need to order extended brake lines. Are the kits from SDHQ/SLEE that says they do 2” enough to cover the front and rear?

I saw the link for Crown lines as well where I can contact them. If I’m doing that, I just want to make sure I understand what I need.

There are 6 lines total in these kits. For the front a soft line at each wheel to go from the frame to the caliper. In the rear 2 lines that go from the frame to the axle and then 2 more lines that go from the axle connection to each caliper. I assume only the frame to caliper on the front and the frame to axle lines need to be extended?

So the questions are, if I go the crown route, is 2” enough, or should I ask for 3 or 4”? Or if 2” is enough, do the SDHQ/SLEE lines have 2” extension at all 4 spots needed.

Thanks in advance.

I have the E&E Offroad rear lower shock mount bracket and have 20mm of front spacer I plan to install. It seems like neither of those parts is adding more than 2”, so I would assume the 2” kit is enough. (For completeness, I have the PerryParts bump stops for front and rear)
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I have extended Tundra lines on the rear of mine from Toytec. I believe the stock Tundra lines are already longer than the 200 series and then they add 2 inches to them.
www.toyteclifts.com

SS-TUN7 - Stainless Steel Extended Rear Brake Lines (07-21 Tundra)

Vehicle Fitment: 2007-2021 Tundra
www.toyteclifts.com www.toyteclifts.com
 
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