Locking down the crankshaft for:

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OffGridOverland

Overland Anywhere - Anytime
Joined
Jan 21, 2015
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Location
Litchfield Park AZ
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I'm trying to retorque my crank pulley.
But getting the 309lbs is being tough.
The motor is rotating on me.
4wd L with brakes?
Sticking something in the flex plate (not really wanting to do that)

Any ideas?
Ever since the timing chain / pump reseal by a shop. My oil pressure has been low.
And based on their quality of work. I'm betting this is yet another issue with it.
 
when you say "something" are you referring the the 14mm long impact socket tip ?

most mudders would agree tis a tried and true solution.

if you are not down with this - making your own sst via angle iron or chains and bolts to the crank is the only other option.

beleive if you search "sst and crank" some nifty ideas will come up.

bf
 
pull inspection cover off bell housing. locate one of the six 14mm bolts on the flexplate . attach long impact grade socket to bolt (dont use "regular" sockets - have had reports of them cracking / shearing ). slowly turn crank to pin socket agaisnt bell housing wall - crank away. can be done clockwise or counter - most though do the "bump start" to loosen crank.

bf
 
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Hello to all mud members:

i need some help, in trying to get the crank pulley bolt loosened. I have the radiator out and all other associated coils out of the way as well. i have full view and access to this entire area , as i am doing quite a bit of work on my 1996 Cruiser. I would like to use my impact on this 30mm nut on my 1996 1fz-fe engine. one supid question, looking directly at the front of the engine and the pulley bolt, should my impact turn clock wise or counter clockwise to get this bolt out????. I am not using the starter bump methoid , i know it worked for the most of you guys on here,, but it does not sit well with me,,, lol ,, especially when i have full access and no coils in the way for any size tool....


Thanks
 
Here is a good video that will help.
@jcardona1 should me this one...
 
Here is a good video that will help.
@jcardona1 should me this one...

Thanks GW nugget. Very helpful, just might need to upgrade to 3/4 or 1 inch drive socket and breaker bar,,, gonna have to wait to see if my friends garage has any of those up for borrow. lol....... Mind you i actually got my hands on the 2 sst tools that hold the pulley in place while trying to loosen up the 30 mm bolt. found them on ebay last year ,,,, at least i got that going for me... I know for a fact another mechanic worked on this 30 mm nut in the past 5 years ago to replace the crank shaft seal, as per the previous owner.

Who knows what he used to re torque this bolt,,lol starting to think a 1 inch drive socket and breaker bar will be needed with a 3 foot piece of black pipe for leverage will be required to be done with this dilema. hopefully no thread sealasnt was used,,,lol
 
I use some synthetic rope gotten at home depot and tie it off to the frame, wrap it around the crank pulley a few times and then keep tension on it as I torque down the bolt. The rope will self tighten as you torque down the bolt. Never was a fan of jambing stuff into anything with gear teeth.

that above or use one of these Home of the Mechanic's Tool Club. the chain holder and some extra muscle always works at the shop
 
I used a torque multiplier and the crank bolt loosened quite easily with about 100 ft lbs of input. No having to bump the starter.. which worried me for some reason. When I retorqued the bolt it was around 77 ft lbs from my 1/2" torque wrench attached to my torque multiplier.

I picked up my multiplier on eBay for $157 awhile back. It is a Proto 1:333. So great for all kind of tasks!
 
Finally got it to break loose. Between 2 broken 1/2 inchbreaker bars , 1/2 inch craftsman impact not strong enough, finally a craftsman high output Impact did the job. Insane whAt I had to go through to get this 30 Mm bolt out,,,, as mentioned someone else had this bolt out before,, so I think it was over tightened ,,,, hopefully nothing got bent or knocked out of whack,,, guess time will tell on that one,, lol. ,,,had that impact tool full speed,,, took quite the effort. Glad I had all the front coils out of the way,,,,doing other work and mods.

Any other members on here , getting ready to do this harmonic balancer removal,, have the right tools ,,,, 1/2 inch sockets and breaker bars don't cut it,, at least that's my personal findings.

The harbor freight 3/4 drive breaker bar was awesome,,, very strong even with a 4 foot black pipe over it ,, never gave in.

Strictly Custom
 
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My bad on quoting the correct torque value for using the torque multiplier. It was around 104 ft lbs of torque from a 1/2" torque wrench to attain 318 ft lbs at the bolt. Likewise loosening it was probably more like 125 ft lbs at the 1/2" breaker bar to gain about 375 at the bolt. My apologies for misleading info!!
 
This has all been done and proven many times.

Loosen the bolt with the Bump the Starter Method and 3/4 Breaker Bar from Harbor Freight (~$25) and a bungee to Passenger Frame Rail. Takes about 3 mins.
Tighten with same bar using a piece of pipe slipped over handle and a 14MM impact socket in inspection hole. Takes about 3 mins.

There is nothing to worry about doing it this way. It is proven! No need to over think this unless motor is already out of truck.
 
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