locker ecu problems... searched!

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Joined
May 8, 2009
Threads
68
Messages
677
Location
Ambridge, PA
I've been having problems with my rear locker, the motor is fine (will lock with an 18v battery). The switch works as well as the wiring to the ecu, can lock and unlock with battery at the ecu.

My question is could the ecu be bad, there are 3 relays in it and the front clicks but the rear does not, although it did intermittently when I first started messing with it.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thank you
 
Sure, I guess any ECU can go bad. I've never seen a factory one, can it be opened up to inspect for bad solder?

You could always try swapping the wiring for the rear diff with the wiring for the front diff at the ECU connector (4 wires each).

If the problem moves to the front, you'd know it's the ECU.
 
I'd check power both at the ECU & then the rear of the body harness plug to the locker - the current goes through either 3 or 4 connectors to get to the axle, forget the number off the top of my head.

Like the other guy posted, flipping the connectors will at least rule out the locker ECU - after that it's the multiple connectors or corrosion on the body side pin connecter down on the axle.
 
Yeah, I tore the ecu apart and all the solder looks good, there are 4 relays soldered in place, I'm assuming one for lock, the other for unlock front and rear.

The chassis harness is good all the way to the ecu, and the switch is good, so it's either the relay in the ecu, or the wiring from the switch to the ecu.

Does anyone have a wiring pinout for the ecu so I can try swapping them?
 
The cdl works as it should (did the 7 pin mod with an extra hazard switch) this is just really bugging me...

If someone had a pinout of the rear locker ecu I would just rewire in 2 relays and bypass the ecu all together for the rear...
 
FWIW, I'm having the same problem. But, I work three jobs and have three boys, so my time to wrench and troubleshoot isn't what it once was... No help, but at least you know it isn't just you.
 
I hope these pics of the diagram help, pardon the quality.

Basically you'd swap pins:

5<>1, 7<>3, 14<>11, 16<>10

P231.webp

P232.webp

P231.webp


P232.webp
 
Yuk! Those pics came out pretty bad.
Sorry I don't have this on PDF...Anyone?

Maybe this is a little better:

P233.webp

P233.webp
 
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