Builds LHD HZJ73 Refresh

[Kaderabek]

Those are very cool. Taking the dash apart is probably beyond my reasonable skill set though. Thank you very much.

 

[svsisu]

Those are very cool. Taking the dash apart is probably beyond my reasonable skill set though. Thank you very much.

The dash is super easy to take apart, and more importantly, get back together. If you can get your wheel off to check that the spacers are still torqued you have the skill set to play with the dash

 

[Rigster]

Yes, definitely interesting

FYI I have found that my 70 is consistent in its gauge inaccuracies. When I have encountered inconsistency in fueling; the source was me, so this may make me a poor witness to the jury. I found that I got impatient and did not allow enough time for the head of foam to settle out and/or did not burp out the trapped air at the top of the tank. Further, I may forget to pick a pump which allows some off camber during fueling that will place the fill tube slightly higher than the level position (which is of aid in reducing the size of the pocket of trapped air that needs to be burped).

You are not crazy, I have found my 2002 76 also displays a consistent level of inconsistencies - lol

More specifically - as the fuel is consumed from the tank, I find the gauge reading all over the place. The most consistent abnormality is that the gauge will read far lower than the actual - making it appear that I am consuming fuel as though someone poked a hole in the tank and it is draining on the ground behind me. Sometimes after I stop, shut down for a bit, it will read higher when I come back and start it up, sometimes it won't. At the beginning I can recall thinking I had a ways to go on this next errand and the gauge was close to empty so I went to fill to be on the safe side and I was only able to put in half a tank (45 litres)

Interestingly, I discovered on a long trip on the highways, that though the gauge drops down to empty, the low fuel warning light (not sure if you guys have this or not on your models) does not come on. I have also witnessed the gauge going up again on a long trip while I am cruising down the road. So what I have taken to doing is monitoring the KM and gauging how many KM on the tank as well as waiting for the actual low fuel warning light to come on so I know when to fill up.

I have not decided whether a new float//sending unit will fix this or not....

 

[Kaderabek]

The dash is super easy to take apart, and more importantly, get back together. If you can get your wheel off to check that the spacers are still torqued you have the skill set to play with the dash

I’ll take a closer look - thanks!

 

[Nikofzj80]

Another thing that had a good salt road soak was the tie rods. We ordered OEM ends 6-8 weeks ago and they finally arrived. I was secretly hoping they would not make it so some tire shop guy would have to do them in Asheville.
Before I lost the rigidity of the front springs being in the truck I decided to do them before I pull the front springs.

Whipped my ass but I won. I’m only bleeding from two places.

View attachment 2750968

View attachment 2750969

View attachment 2750970

View attachment 2750971

View attachment 2750972

Hi, nice build!! Im jelaous!
By the way, what are part # on the tie rods you got: I can't seem to find online.
45045-69045 This I got in Argentina no problem
45044-69085 I can't seem to find OEM anywhere
45046-69115 This one I believe I can source it in the US
45047-69065 Same as the one above

Am I on the right track?
Cheers, thanks

 

[wngrog]

Hi, nice build!! Im jelaous!
By the way, what are part # on the tie rods you got: I can't seem to find online.
45045-69045 This I got in Argentina no problem
45044-69085 I can't seem to find OEM anywhere
45046-69115 This one I believe I can source it in the US
45047-69065 Same as the one above

Am I on the right track?
Cheers, thanks

Man. No idea. They did come from Partsouq.com

 

[Nikofzj80]

Man. No idea. They did come from Partsouq.com

Thanks! just double checked in partsouq and got substitution #, and luckily I managed to find them in Argentina! Only bits missing are compressor V belt and hose n2 from the air cleaner

 

[Kaderabek]

Should have a soft top update sometime soon.

 

[OGBeno]

Pimp.

OEM setup or aftermarket, Todd?

 

[Kaderabek]

It's an aftermarket setup from 4060seriesnut. I'm also picking up a set of doors tomorrow that I can cut down to half doors. Then I need to work on some tunes.

 

[FJ73Texas]

If you have the newer style gauge that lets light through the gauge, these translucent conversion overlays are an available option:

Land Cruiser. KMH to MPH Conversion Dial for imported vehicle. Part No. C836 – Lockwood International

lockwoodinternational.co.uk

That translucent one would be perfect for me if it was just like the overlay in the sense that the mph is the smaller font within the second row of numbers. Like the magnetic overlay. It just bugs me that the MPH being the dominate row when the number dials showing milage will be in kmh.

I am going to contact them and see if they can use my original to make a translucent copy.

 

[Kaderabek]

I received my soft top and bows from @4060seriesnut a week or two back and finally have had some time to unpack it and sort through it a bit. The quality looks to be first rate and it was delivered as promised and actually a good bit ahead of schedule. Very pleased.

My only "issue" so far is no instructions. If someone could link me to a thread on installing one of these, I'd appreciate it. I can't find one but I'm old and dumb.

Failing that, I need some advice from those who have removed their hard tops. The soft top comes with no hardware. How confident would you be based on this pile of parts that this all bolts on with factory hard top hardware?

Thanks!

TJK

 

[wngrog]

You find a powder or paint place near you?

 

[OGBeno]

^^. This. Ideally paint. FST super structure is tight fitting if they mimicked the OEM iteration…. Which some of it does.

 

[svsisu]

I believe @FJBen installed the same top. You can probably find some info in his build thread starting here:

Builds - 1988 BJ74 “Number 1”

:flipoff2: *the irony of this emoji is that I honestly can't remember the last time I ever used this hand signal in real life*

forum.ih8mud.com

Or perhaps he'll chime in and can lend a hand.

 

[Kaderabek]

These parts are all painted. What might appear to be rust in that one photo is fine dust. Covered in it. Now hosed off.

 

[Kaderabek]

I'll sort through that thread - thank you.

 

[FJBen]

I'll sort through that thread - thank you.

On a quick trip I’ll respond shortly with my thoughts but yes in my thread it goes over most of it.
I would just get all new hardware and keep your hard top stuff together.

 

[Kaderabek]

On a quick trip I’ll respond shortly with my thoughts but yes in my thread it goes over most of it.
I would just get all new hardware and keep your hard top stuff together.

That's good advice - thank you. I'll take the hard top set down to my friends at Asheville Bolt and have them duplicate it.

Your thread is excellent too - thank you!

 

[FJBen]

That's good advice - thank you. I'll take the hard top set down to my friends at Asheville Bolt and have them duplicate it.

Your thread is excellent too - thank you!

Thanks!
You might wait on that and see if you want it that way. The bolts aren’t the same, or length or amount you need.

The windshield needs short nuts/bolts
The sides in the rear need nuts/bolts, 4 each side
If you have above front doors you can use same bolts
Framing in back and across the top needs nuts bolts

I haven’t put the side piece that in that goes by the roll bar but that will need a really short setup. Most of it is finding right length and orientation but it’s pretty easy.

It will take some bending and possibly shaping cutting elongating of holes to fit right