Leaking freon A/C help

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trackmur said:
I can see where a dealer would lift the body off of the frame for those line changes. I placed a small scissor jack between the frame and body and lifted the body slightly. If you look at the body mount bushes, they are made for this sort of movement. Like many things, this is a situation where subtlety is key. Lift it only what you need and then sneak the line or lines out. Too much movement will probably wreck something.
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If you are telling me you have replaced your lines by jacking the body slightly then i would be very very interested to hear more as this would be a great help to hear how you did it.

It would also mean that i could get the pipe and do it my self. I guess the exhaust would have to come off?
 
Get under the truck and look at what you are dealing with. The pipes are not continuous, but are in sections. I was only fixing a leak on the rearmost section. I lifted the body slightly with the jack in order to sneak the old pipes in and the new ones out. The actual pipe or pipes you need to replace may or may not need such mucking about.

The connections are sealed by the O-rings, so are not particularly tight. You can unfasten these by using a pair of stubby wrenches clocked slightly out of phase and then pull them together with one hand. You do not need to see what you are doing and you don't need a lot of space for this.
 
Finally found it...Turns out it was the evaporator core. Wish I would have replaced it when I did the expansion valve.
 
I finally went to get a/c recharged after not having cold air for 3 years, mechanic found leak in the lines going to the rear also. I would love to just bypass those. Going to do some searching here and see if there is an easy way. Anybody done this and how did you do it?
 
1999 (124K miles) w/ Rear Air:To seal off rear or not? I can replace the lines if need be but we only use the vehicle for towing a trailer. But I love this truck and I want to know what you think about finding the rear line leak, cutting the pipe, and welding on a cap, or going the full route? What is the prevaiiling wisdom?
 
Taktiks said:
1999 (124K miles) w/ Rear Air:To seal off rear or not? I can replace the lines if need be but we only use the vehicle for towing a trailer. But I love this truck and I want to know what you think about finding the rear line leak, cutting the pipe, and welding on a cap, or going the full route? What is the prevaiiling wisdom?
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If you elect to disconnect the rear A/C, you might look into these caps. https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/490157-rear-ac-line-caps.html See posts #20 &30
 
On my phone so didn't read entire thread.

I've lost AC twice in the past 48 hours. Lost it on the trail Saturday (living HELL) and today about 30 minutes ago (blowing kind of cold). I rana bottle of freon/refrigerant and a bottle of stop leak. Charged to 45PSI. Was perfect last night and today. Seems to happen immediately, worked on the way to work, 3 hours later nada.


Anything? I can't do This heat in atl with no air
 
2000UZJ said:
On my phone so didn't read entire thread.

I've lost AC twice in the past 48 hours. Lost it on the trail Saturday (living HELL) and today about 30 minutes ago (blowing kind of cold). I rana bottle of freon/refrigerant and a bottle of stop leak. Charged to 45PSI. Was perfect last night and today. Seems to happen immediately, worked on the way to work, 3 hours later nada.

Anything? I can't do This heat in atl with no air
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Adding some things-

The core in the engine bay doesn't get cold, 20PSI in the system on the trail, working 100% today all day. Turned of and 3 hours later nothing. It blows kind of cool ( about as cool as a old ladies house). The air gets hot/cold in quick waves... Is there anything I can hit with a hammer to jolt it free or unstick it? This is torture, I feel like a 12 year old Chinese boy making knit sweaters for Marshalls in the dead of July heat....
 
I cannot believe there are no aftermarket flex-pipes? This area (A/C piping) would seem ripe for a logical solution other than redoing aluminum piping on a used car (unless you are keeping it for 25 years). Mine is failing but I don't want to cap it - I, however, cannot envision that I will pay the $500-$1K for replacement. Local independents don't seem to know if they can create a solution to this.
 
24 hours later I'm back to square one. I'm so friggin frustrated already. Not being able to drive without melting :rolleyes: hissing sound now present when AC is on.
image-2096120875.webp
 
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Parker Stores...don't know where that is? I tried googling it, and couldn't find it (in my location - midwest). Can you give me more information? Rubber refrigerant hoses is a place to start - thanks.
 
splacek007 said:
Parker Stores...don't know where that is? I tried googling it, and couldn't find it (in my location - midwest). Can you give me more information? Rubber refrigerant hoses is a place to start - thanks.
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I used Parker's web site to locate stores in Nebraska (your location). www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKER/menuitem.76df8d844a1b641680684c0a8320d1ca/?vgnextoid=809a4dd53480d210VgnVCM10000048021dacRCRD&vgnextfmt=default&vgnextreg=North%20America

KRIHA FLUID POWER, 2133 CORNHUSKER HIGHWAY, LINCOLN NE 68521
Telephone:(402) 438-8303

KRIHA FLUID POWER, 9355 H COURT, OMAHA NE 68127
Telephone:(402) 339-5300

Here is some info on their product line for automotive refrigeration: Parker - MOBILE/AUTOMOTIVE

Hope this helps. Let me know what you find out.




 
Come on guys, take the plunge and order the caps and cut your rear a/c lines. This is the hottest dang summer ever! I was dying without my a/c and my hundy isn't even a daily driver. I can assure you if it isn't blowing out ice cold air you have a leak.
I tried Red Angel leak seal and that worked great for a year but the freon all leaked eventually over the winter.

For $90 dollars I got mine fixed. The A/C blows so cold that my daughter in the back seat tells me to turn it down. The rear a/c is nothing but problems anyhow. If you can afford to drop a grand do it but otherwise for $90 dolalrs cutting the rear lines and capping them is an ideal alternative.

Keep cool.
 
$150 dollars yesterday and I'm back to square one again. No dye found, no leaks found, NOTHING.

It's 103* right now and I'm soaked head to toe like a dumbass. Anybody have any ideas before I go ape s***?
 
Trunk Monkey said:
You sure it's AC and not truck temp? AC cuts at like 220*.
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Truck temp is steady between 198-207. I had the dealership recharge it to book specs. Worked all day running errands. She sat in the sun for 5 hours and it didn't come back on. Strange.....sorry of the last post came of bad. I'm just a little frustrated after a days work outside and it's even hotter in my truck
 
Trunk Monkey said:
No worries, no one likes swamp ass. Weird that dye wouldn't show something since it's pretty obviously leaking.
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If the rear air is leaking...could that effect the front? Probably a stupid question. But I was under the impression the rear air was electric and did not use freon.
 
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