LC200 SparkPlug Change

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Aug 21, 2006
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Has anybody replaced the sparkplugs and coils in an LC200? I need to do mine and see the cooling lines are in the way for cylinder 8 (rear most cylinder on passenger side). I looked at the service manual online and can't tell if you need to remove the cooling bypass lines entirely or just loosen the bolts that secure them to the motor so they can be moved out of the way. Whatever it takes - it looks like a major pain in the butt.
 
Check post 777 in
What have you done to your 200 Series this week?

Once you unbolt the heater lines, you can get the socket in there and get the plug and coil pack off. It takes time and patience but can be done without removing them completely.
 
are all the heater line bolts accessible from the top of the engine? In looking at the online manual it appears one of them is at the rear of the engine block.
 
I added it here for completeness, make it easier to add to the FAQ. Please add any additional info support in this thread

From Archtaan,

Also did spark plugs. My mileage dropped to 15.5 which is low for me even on winter blend. Fresh oil, fresh air cleaner, tire pressures all good so I figured it had to be plugs.



Checked the gaps on the NGK 6619 Iridiums. (Amazon - $58 for the set) They are all pregapped and all came out to .044 which is spec!



Pop the hood, disconnect battery and pull engine cover (it just lifts straight off)



Coil packs look easy to get to, but every single one had an obstruction of some sort. You will need a variety of extensions and will need to unclip and move things around.



Unbolt the coil pack (10mm nut) and unclip the connectors. I used needle nose pliers to make it easier.



After pulling the coil, I used some compressed air to clean out the tube before pulling the plugs. Use a spark plug socket with the rubber insert to help pull it out of the tube.

1st plug on drivers side out. The washers are captive on the plugs. Also, be sure to inspect the coil packs and rubber seals. Some of the plugs are really in there. You will feel like you unscrewed a 24" bolt on some of them.




Checked the gap. .0525. Could explain things. (all of the plugs gapped in this range)


Factory next to replacement


Dont forget your anti-seize before reinstalling. (Hand thread it first, then torque it) Repeat for rest of plugs. You will need to open the fuse box and slide up the wires to get to 1 of the plugs. Push the coil packs on hard and bolt the 10mm bolts back on. Make sure you get a positive click on the wire connectors as well.



Passengers side. Much more difficult. Pull the air cleaner and set to side. This lets you get to the front 3 plugs pretty easily.



Now, the firewall plug on the passenger side. Very hard to do. You have to unconnect the 3 heater hose brackets since they route directly over the plug.

10mm bolt, easy to undue. In between front 2 plugs.



12mm bolt at back of the head. Yeah, not easy. You have a very small degree of movement to get the hose out of the way to undue the bolt. You also need long needle nose pliers to unplug this clip. (top of the engine shot)



Heater hose bolt 12mm in very back of the head has to come out. About 14" of extensions and a swivel socket while trying to maneuver a wrench under the cowl.



See this really thick black wire bundle over the 2 silver tubes? Yup, the plug is under all of that and none of it wants to move.


So my tips. - Take your time, you will need to maneuver, twist and turn to get some of the coil packs out.
If you drop a socket/tool and it doesnt hit the deck, you will likely need to pull a skid plate to get to it. (I used a long mechanics magnet for the 1 socket I dropped.)

So all done. Double check your connections, make sure all of your tools are picked up, reconnect battery and start her up.

All the tools needed. Job took 3 hours with most of it on the last plug. Dealer quoted @ $350 for the job (parts and labor)



So here is where I was after last fill up. Lets see if this helps get those mpg's back up.
 
I added it here for completeness, make it easier to add to the FAQ. Please add any additional info support in this thread

From Archtaan,

Also did spark plugs. My mileage dropped to 15.5 which is low for me even on winter blend. Fresh oil, fresh air cleaner, tire pressures all good so I figured it had to be plugs.


Do you always keep ammunition handy when changing spark plugs? ;)
 
The T's are right there as well and are clearly shown in the above pics. Could add that to the list. I know on my 100 they were pretty bad. I think only folks on the forums change them out so those that buy high mileage 200's should add those, at once, to the baseline list. They sure need to swap out as the miles/years grow.

IMAG0868_zpsysrftwah.jpg
 
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job done - took me about 2 hours - couldn't have done it with your help - thank you! Honestly I was intimidated by the coolant lines over cylinder 8 but this thread helped me through it. Really not a big deal. My local dealership wanted $600 to do the job - it cost me $51 in OEM plugs at Advanced Auto. I'd buy y'all a beer if I could...
 
I was planning on having my t's replaved at the 90k service. The dealer changes the coolant anyway.
 
You guys had me worried about changing the last plug on the passenger side, it wasn't bad at all. Unbolted the hoses, moved them and had it done in 5-10 minutes. Thanks for the write up.
 
Has anyone heard of the need to replace the spark plug wires at the same time? I just purchased a 2010 200 and had a pre-purchase inspection performed by a Toyota dealership before I drove down to get it. One of the few things they suggested was replacing the spark plug wires.
 
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Has anyone heard of the need to replace the spark plug wires at the same time? I just purchased a 2010 200 and had a pre-purchase inspection performed by a Toyota dealership before I drove down to get it. One of the few things they suggested was replacing the spark plug wires.

The coil packs? Or the actual coil pack harness? I've heard of coil packs taking a dump but the harness is stout. You can pull the coil packs and give them a look over, if they look good and are producing spark, they're probably ok. These don't have plug wires like old school dizzy or rotor spark systems.
 
The coil packs? Or the actual coil pack harness? I've heard of coil packs taking a dump but the harness is stout. You can pull the coil packs and give them a look over, if they look good and are producing spark, they're probably ok. These don't have plug wires like old school dizzy or rotor spark systems.

Ok... They must have copy and pasted the wrong item in the additional service recommendation section. It had a pic of spark plugs wires and talked about spark plug wire insulation going bad and not delivering a spark to the distributor.
 
Yeah, be carefully on website pictures. Copy and paste happens all too often.
 

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