I have my rear tail gate plastic off with parts on order to add one to my 2014. I just need to find the sensor wire for the open/close tracking. Someone with knowledge and expertise could probably use a multimeter. Me? I have a relay on order, but delivery will take a bit.
LC200 Rear Tailgate Cargo Interior Light DIY - Total Cost $26+tax
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I have my rear tail gate plastic off with parts on order to add one to my 2014. I just need to find the sensor wire for the open/close tracking. Someone with knowledge and expertise could probably use a multimeter. Me? I have a relay on order, but delivery will take a bit.
If you find out what wire to tap, please let me know. I would love to do this mod, but am not the best at chasing down wires.
@Squirrel - maybe this?
Thanks! @grinchy
Attached is one of the working photos from my gate latch. I actually added a retrofit power lift gate to my 2014. It was a process due in part to a wiring harness for a 2016+ Landcruiser, likely for the Australian market. I worked the manufacturer and adapted the right wiring harness, but it leaves me with the attached setup (wires changed and connectors now covered with shrinkwrap) that should make it easy to mess with the connector.
The best I can tell from looking at diagrams, the sensor is somehow integrated into the 3 wires of the latching mechanism. I ran an always on power wire to the lift gate from the front fuse box, but I don't have a way to sense the open/close position of the lift gate. I've toyed with using a tilt sensor, but I've ready mixed reviews. Time will tell.
My plan is to place the power switch on the bottom of the lift gate on the opposite side of the latch from the lift gate button. That square-is panel will house one of these LED lights and a power lift gate button to open the lift gate from inside the vehicle. There's just barely enough room... I think (read: hope!)
Attached is one of the working photos from my gate latch. I actually added a retrofit power lift gate to my 2014. It was a process due in part to a wiring harness for a 2016+ Landcruiser, likely for the Australian market. I worked the manufacturer and adapted the right wiring harness, but it leaves me with the attached setup (wires changed and connectors now covered with shrinkwrap) that should make it easy to mess with the connector.
The best I can tell from looking at diagrams, the sensor is somehow integrated into the 3 wires of the latching mechanism. I ran an always on power wire to the lift gate from the front fuse box, but I don't have a way to sense the open/close position of the lift gate. I've toyed with using a tilt sensor, but I've ready mixed reviews. Time will tell.
My plan is to place the power switch on the bottom of the lift gate on the opposite side of the latch from the lift gate button. That square-is panel will house one of these LED lights and a power lift gate button to open the lift gate from inside the vehicle. There's just barely enough room... I think (read: hope!)
Might as well get this out there for those with TLC Power lift gates. Don't know if it will help your unique situation @Squirrel
Thank you! I don't know much about the OEM system, but from what I understand it's very different from the retrofit system I installed. This kit is really pretty simple- it replaces the motored latch in the gate. The new ECU then plugs into the factory wiring for the latch, and it taps into the lock signal in the B pillar. The front button to open/close the latch actually taps into the factory button in the gate. Installing the parts is quick- 30 minutes. Then it's all running wires which takes a while.
Thanks for the post. Got mine wired in today.
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- #29
How is the light output from yellow? I have not considered yellow, but was thinking about red.
I went with the yellow. It’s fine on the bench. I don’t know where my install went wrong, but the slightly larger black and red wires on the plug showed 12v when I put them on the multimeter, but now show 0v. I tried opening doors etc, they aren’t waking up.
On the bench led in switch is always on, and light is on by default, turns off when switch depressed.
I can’t put my panel back in. I put the switch below toward opening of door and it won’t clear the opening to swing in. Will have to loosen the switch then tighten in situ. Have it off while I ponder the wiring problem.
On the bench led in switch is always on, and light is on by default, turns off when switch depressed.
I can’t put my panel back in. I put the switch below toward opening of door and it won’t clear the opening to swing in. Will have to loosen the switch then tighten in situ. Have it off while I ponder the wiring problem.
Pics
I would start by figuring out where your 12v went on those 2 larger wires. Maybe check fuses? Does the tailgate motor still operate? Also, try bypassing your switch and go led direct to those wires once you get 12v back. Maybe your switch shorted something out.
Tailgate still beeps and goes up and down. Via switch on dash and switch on tailgate.
Yeah it’s weird.
Yeah it’s weird.
The yellow is fine. It illuminates quite well. I am hoping it will reduce the reduction of bugs attracted to the lights, although now they will probably go into the vehicle to the other LEDs...
Try putting the switch back on and checking the voltage (if you haven't already) after opening the hatch.
@ radman and luke27617
Sorry if these are basic questions but wanted to see how this should go without screwing something up.
Does the rear lift gate button just push through or are there clips that need to be pinched or somehow disconnected?
Did you just splice into the wires or use the wiring harness somehow?
In the picture borrowed, looks like borrowed from radman looks like he put the light on the main panel rather than the access door, degree of difficulty? I am considering that as a way to incorporate a rear interior hatch button from cruiser brothers. I pm'ed cruiser brothers yesterday and they were kind enough to send a pic that showed it wouldn't all fit on the access panel. Also, pm'ed with Squirrel a little yesterday, I think he is going to try this as well. Any thoughts?
Sorry if these are basic questions but wanted to see how this should go without screwing something up.
Does the rear lift gate button just push through or are there clips that need to be pinched or somehow disconnected?
Did you just splice into the wires or use the wiring harness somehow?
In the picture borrowed, looks like borrowed from radman looks like he put the light on the main panel rather than the access door, degree of difficulty? I am considering that as a way to incorporate a rear interior hatch button from cruiser brothers. I pm'ed cruiser brothers yesterday and they were kind enough to send a pic that showed it wouldn't all fit on the access panel. Also, pm'ed with Squirrel a little yesterday, I think he is going to try this as well. Any thoughts?
This is why i mounted to the main trim and not the inspection panel. There are a few different pictures here:
DIY Liftgate LED install
I had reached out to a fellow member about purchasing some parts; however, I never heard back from him and then decided to yolo and try to DIY. I hesitated posting this because I don’t want to take away from anyone’s business, but I also think others might want to save a few bones or mount...
forum.ih8mud.com
I shoved the led wires into the back end of the switch harness. They will seem a little loose at first, but they will be friction tight when you click it back onto the switch.
Great idea and thanks for the walk-through.
Can't get those components in Canada at a reasonable price, so I ordered some similar, but different ones. Will install in the next few weeks.
Can't get those components in Canada at a reasonable price, so I ordered some similar, but different ones. Will install in the next few weeks.
put a different switch on that will clear the panel swing. Still didn't have 12v at the hatch plug. I get a couple 2v signals . . . I think I'll pull the trim and wire it to the accessory wire I put in there when I relocated the rear view camera a couple weeks ago. I think I want to be able to control on and off and not be a slave to the interior lighting circuit timeout. That accessory wire terminates right next to a junction box I added for the trailer wiring under the rig, very convenient.
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- #40
The lift gate button has 4 push on clips. As soon as you got couple from top undone, the bottom two will take a second. You need to stick your hand inside to loose the switch. You can as well just unplug the plug, but found removing the whole rear gate switch makes it easier to work on the project.
No cable splicing. I have showed the two wires into the plug to make proper contact and taped it good. I didn't take picture so used one from radman as his work was more visible. Make sure you use a proper gauge wire so it nicely makes the contact in the plug.
Re: interior hatch pannel. I decided not to do as don't want to damage interior pannels but though about it as it is a next cheap and fast project.
I was planning to buy one more push button switch and install it next to the push button for the light on the access panel. It should take few minutes to wire to the existing switch where wires for lights are connected (additional $10 cost for the switch). Only thing that would require drilling holes into panel is to add the grip handle. You can buy one directly from Toyota for about $16. So next project were personally I would save money and do it myself and the cost would be in low $30s including shipping.