LC200 Rear Tailgate Cargo Interior Light DIY - Total Cost $26+tax

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luke27617 said:
The lift gate button has 4 push on clips. As soon as you got couple from top undone, the bottom two will take a second. You need to stick your hand inside to loose the switch. You can as well just unplug the plug, but found removing the whole rear gate switch makes it easier to work on the project.

No cable splicing. I have showed the two wires into the plug to make proper contact and taped it good. I didn't take picture so used one from radman as his work was more visible. Make sure you use a proper gauge wire so it nicely makes the contact in the plug.

Re: interior hatch pannel. I decided not to do as don't want to damage interior pannels but though about it as it is a next cheap and fast project.
I was planning to buy one more push button switch and install it next to the push button for the light on the access panel. It should take few minutes to wire to the existing switch where wires for lights are connected (additional $10 cost for the switch). Only thing that would require drilling holes into panel is to add the grip handle. You can buy one directly from Toyota for about $16. So next project were personally I would save money and do it myself and the cost would be in low $30s including shipping.
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Why would you need a grip handle if you have a powered hatch? Pressing the button should close it, right?
 
MTNLIVIN said:
Nice work, this is awesome. Thank you for sharing! I will be doing this with the Amber light, from my understanding that should attract the least amount of bugs at night.
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Excellent thought... in reading up on this .. "Red, which is at the far end of the spectrum, is actually completely invisible to insects. "
 
Fisher23 said:
Excellent thought... in reading up on this .. "Red, which is at the far end of the spectrum, is actually completely invisible to insects. "
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For what its worth I ordered the red one because of just that. The article I read said that red could appear dim to the human eye as well. But everything I have seen on this light says how incredibly bright it is. So I will see.
 
radman said:
Why would you need a grip handle if you have a powered hatch? Pressing the button should close it, right?
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Damn, you are right. I was looking at previous installs which had the handle without putting more thought into it. Looks like time for a new project ;)
 
luke27617 said:
Damn, you are right. I was looking at previous installs which had the handle without putting more thought into it. Looks like time for a new project ;)
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I just tried to find the switch, but I'm not able to find the new part#. The old number is 84930-28150, and there's a few sellers in UAE but I'm sure we can find the new number somewhere.
www.ebay.com

8493028150 Genuine Toyota SWITCH ASSY, DOOR CONTROL 84930-28150 | eBay

Condition:OEM 100% GENUINE NEW PART. East Asia and Middle East -. LAND CRUISER. ESTIMA HYBRID.
www.ebay.com
 
radman said:
I just tried to find the switch, but I'm not able to find the new part#. The old number is 84930-28150, and there's a few sellers in UAE but I'm sure we can find the new number somewhere.
www.ebay.com

8493028150 Genuine Toyota SWITCH ASSY, DOOR CONTROL 84930-28150 | eBay

Condition:OEM 100% GENUINE NEW PART. East Asia and Middle East -. LAND CRUISER. ESTIMA HYBRID.
www.ebay.com
Click to expand...
Why not use "momentary push button switch"which looks like the one we have for lights. The difference in momentary is that there is no on/off but just on when you keep pressing it down. Does the factory do something more than that?
 
luke27617 said:
Why not use "momentary push button switch"which looks like the one we have for lights. The difference in momentary is that there is no on/off but just on when you keep pressing it down. Does the factory do something more than that?
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Yes, this will work; however, I think the oem will look a bit nicer if I can find it for $30-40
 
This thread completely justifies and explains the original designer/vendor’s product and pricing. The irony is delicious. He took the time to figure all this out. Researched. Developed a product that...just works. Then brought it to market for a price that’s easily justifiable.

Pay the man his money :)
 
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I don't know, man. $140 for $25 in parts and some basic assembly? Compare that to Jowett's filter housing at @ $125... something that was actually designed and made, not just assembled.
 
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I don’t begrudge kit builders or underestimate the time and cost that goes into it. But I also know that this particular thing could be accomplished by anyone with an led and a circuit diagram. it was on my list for a while . . . And has already evolved into new ideas and other ways to solve problems with switches and electricity that some will find useful and others frivolous.
 
luke27617 said:
The lift gate button has 4 push on clips. As soon as you got couple from top undone, the bottom two will take a second. You need to stick your hand inside to loose the switch. You can as well just unplug the plug, but found removing the whole rear gate switch makes it easier to work on the project.

No cable splicing. I have showed the two wires into the plug to make proper contact and taped it good. I didn't take picture so used one from radman as his work was more visible. Make sure you use a proper gauge wire so it nicely makes the contact in the plug.

Re: interior hatch pannel. I decided not to do as don't want to damage interior pannels but though about it as it is a next cheap and fast project.
I was planning to buy one more push button switch and install it next to the push button for the light on the access panel. It should take few minutes to wire to the existing switch where wires for lights are connected (additional $10 cost for the switch). Only thing that would require drilling holes into panel is to add the grip handle. You can buy one directly from Toyota for about $16. So next project were personally I would save money and do it myself and the cost would be in low $30s including shipping.
Click to expand...
What gauge wire have most people used to plug in to the plug?
 
samster747 said:
What gauge wire have most people used to plug in to the plug?
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If you haven't purchased yet, this switch comes with a harness:
APIELE [3 year warranty] 16mm Latching Push Button Switch 12V DC Angel Eye Halo Ring LED Metal1NO1NC SPDT With Wire Socket Plug (WHITE) Amazon product ASIN B079HLLDYD
 
radman said:
If you haven't purchased yet, this switch comes with a harness:
APIELE [3 year warranty] 16mm Latching Push Button Switch 12V DC Angel Eye Halo Ring LED Metal1NO1NC SPDT With Wire Socket Plug (WHITE) Amazon product ASIN B079HLLDYD
Click to expand...
ok but lets say if I wasn't going to use that but maybe for example the bajadesigns light with switch...I haven't gotten the light yet, but wondering if the wires will plug straight into the LC plug without issue.
 
samster747 said:
ok but lets say if I wasn't going to use that but maybe for example the bajadesigns light with switch...I haven't gotten the light yet, but wondering if the wires will plug straight into the LC plug without issue.
Click to expand...

22-26 awg is fine. There's no direct plug into the harness, but just make sure your tips are twisted tight and shove them in there.
82C651CD-60B5-447D-BDD8-E5708B983E8C.webp
 
CharlieS said:
Maybe just my OCD tendencies, but just jamming a wire into a connector is not a solid or reliable way to make good electrical contact.
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I hear you. I did this to test, and then realized that when the harness is plugged into the switch, there's a tight friction grab from the switch blades. We added electrical tape up top to help secure it.

Other options are to use a wire tap or cut and splice, but that picture has been going strong for over 6 months.
 
radman said:
I hear you. I did this to test, and then realized that when the harness is plugged into the switch, there's a tight friction grab from the switch blades. We added electrical tape up top to help secure it.

Other options are to use a wire tap or cut and splice, but that picture has been going strong for over 6 months.
Click to expand...

One thing I have done is solder the leg of a staple from a staple gun to the wire to insert into the harness. That worked well.
This time I used two of these Posi Tap, They do very little damage to the wires.



 
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