Going to be picking up my 2005 Land Cruiser next week and one of the first projects is a stereo upgrade. I've read through quite a few of the threads but just want to confirm I'm thinking about this correctly. My plan is to replace the factory Nav with the Teyes CC3 2k unit. I am going to leave the tape deck in place (will probably eventually pull the CD changer out). My plan is to use a new amplifier and run new wiring to new speakers. I may delete the factory amp. Any reason this won't work?
LC '05 Stereo Upgrade Sanity Check (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter OrlandoJon
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I wouldn't trust my HVAC to a low cost unit like that, but maybe I'm too cynical.
I'd plan on needing to focus on other more important things than a [not at all simple] Nav delete and cheap stereo upgrade when buying a 20 year old luxury car.
For reference, I'm an audio nerd, and the complexity and cost (a few grand just to do the delete properly) have kept me from starting that project.
Those cheap Chinese/Russian stereos never seem to work for more than a short while. There's a reason the name brand stuff is 3-5x the price.
I'd plan on needing to focus on other more important things than a [not at all simple] Nav delete and cheap stereo upgrade when buying a 20 year old luxury car.
For reference, I'm an audio nerd, and the complexity and cost (a few grand just to do the delete properly) have kept me from starting that project.
Those cheap Chinese/Russian stereos never seem to work for more than a short while. There's a reason the name brand stuff is 3-5x the price.
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I hear what you’re saying but the AC controls are basically just CANBUS signals and at this point it seems like several people have gotten it to work. If anything the radio is just an interface.
As for other projects on the car, I’m in the fortunate circumstance of knowing the maintenance on this vehicle and everything is pretty buttoned up.
Does anyone know any good car audio shop that can install CC3 type of system and/or Nav delete on 03+ Hundys? Shops do this kind of swap (on other cars) all the time. I wonder if a reputable shop would have enough experience to figure out the ins and outs competently and do a quality work?
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I’ll be doing mine in a few weeks. Doesn’t look like it’s going to be terribly hard. Seems like most of the kinks with AC are figured out.
From Facebook this morning, lol. From what I'm seeing the T'eyes units work. For some people. Sometimes. Sort of.
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The alternative is don’t do anything and be annoyed about wanting better sound or spent months trying to source thousands of dollars of relatively difficult to find parts and convert the AC controls. I’d rather see if I can get the Teyes working well, add a decent DSP and amplification and run new wiring for the speakers. In theory, as long as the Teyes unit works, everything else is straight forward. I’ll probably roll the dice instead of dreaming about converting AC controls. Hopefully it will pan out. My main concern was if there are any issues completely bypassing the amp. I think I’ve heard you can’t pull the tape deck. I believe that’s all one PCB board.
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Started ordering gear tonight. Going to slowly build up but for now I am going with
Teyes CC3 32g
JBL DSP4086 (8 Channel DSP, 6 Channel Amp)
Infinity Basslink Mini
Infinity Reference Components up front
Infinity Reference Speakers in back
Teyes CC3 32g
JBL DSP4086 (8 Channel DSP, 6 Channel Amp)
Infinity Basslink Mini
Infinity Reference Components up front
Infinity Reference Speakers in back
An easy route option is a Grom vl2 (or whatever their newest version is) and add your aftermarket DSP downstream of the factory amp. New aftermarket amp, new wires new speakers.
That keeps the reliable HVAC and factory look with modern function and upgraded sound. Granted, from a sound quality perspective I'm not sure if the super cheap and modern Teyes outputs are better than the old "premium" from an OEM. The DSP can only tweak so much. There's also still the floating ground problem which I'm not sure which path is easier in that regard.
At any rate, please let us know how it goes. The modern screens are way better and if you can get good quality and reliability out of those packages, that's a good deal.
If I just wanted to improve sound, and didn’t want to go full nerd/spend$$$$….on anything other than SQ
iPad/Tablet/Source, to DSP/AMP, to front stage and then a sub wherever you’d like. Set up the RTA and tune.
iPad/Tablet/Source, to DSP/AMP, to front stage and then a sub wherever you’d like. Set up the RTA and tune.
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I considered the Grom Vline but I couldn’t stand the idea of using the factory terrible touchscreen.
The alternative is to search for 68 ohms resistor mod.
It's old, but reliable. Run wireless Android Auto or Car Play and you don't even touch the screen itself.... except for climate control, obviously.
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Good tip. Definitely put me down another rabbit hole of reading.
