Late Model E Locker Wiring

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dubsb

dubsb

Joined
Feb 19, 2007
Threads
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I recently did some e locker wiring with an OEM ECU and Switch, I couldn't find any legible schematics so I just messed around until I figured it out. I think the unit I had was from a 99ish 4 runner, as was the ecu. Most of the wiring was idiot proof, but the one thing i couldn't figure out was where the +12v was supplied to. I figured I would post it up considering I will probably loose my drawing and need to look it up.

here's what i came up with:

the idiot proof part:

Motor to ECU

green red---->Green red
Green yellow---->Green yellow
Green Black--->green black
Green--->Green
White/Black--->Ground

Indicator Switch

White Black--->Ground
Blue Yellow--->LED--->+12v

ECU:
White Black--->Ground
Grey--->Ground
red/Black--->Switch
Black Yellow-->+12v

Switch:

Black/red---+12v
red/black--->ECU red black (listed above)

I didn't bother wiring the light in the switch but i would assume it ts the two center wires.
 
yes,
all of that appears to be correct. (I am working on the same setup in my 88 4runner as well)
btw- all of that is available in the fsm wiring diagram section if you need the full diagram or to see it again for whatever reason.
 
I'm appearantly too lazy to download the right fsm, I did see your diagrams but the wire colors were different, so I couldn't figure out where the +12v supply comes into the equation, you used the 80 series computer, which is somewhat the same, but a little different, I couldn't find anything that used the 4runner ecu, and oem switch, I'm weird about keeping my rig oem, even if it's from another year, trying to have a serious crawler, but maintaining that "stockish" feel. Hell, I even rigged a power antenna switch for my in cab winch controls.
 
"I'm weird about keeping my rig oem, even if it's from another year."

lol me too. i do the same thing! its glad to see someone is as anal as I am. I too am going with the factory ecu to control the locker as well as the factory switch in the dash. where are you going to stash the computer? i was thinking behind the panel in the cargo area, that way it is close to the locker motor, and i can go through that big body gromet in the corner of the body. and i only have to run the one power wire for the module and one power wire for the switch up to the front of the truck, rather than the whole wiring harness.

per your post, i found that some of the wiring colors differ among different trucks that had lockers, ie 4runners, tacoma 4x4 and tacoma pre-runners all had them. but colors differed on some things, like "grey wire mod" is sometimes the "blue wire mod" in 4runners or something like that.
 
Trust me guys, I'm as "oem fanatical" as either of you but none of our 4Runners came with a locker. For me, the OEM 80 switch and ECU was the best choice as I was installing front and rear lockers. It looks and feels OEM; especially to me since I also have an 80 with lockers.

What are you guys going to do about locating an LED (or other type) of locked indicator? I installed two just above the dial switch. That's the only part that doesn't really look OEM.
 
WarDamnEagle said:
Trust me guys, I'm as "oem fanatical" as either of you but none of our 4Runners came with a locker. For me, the OEM 80 switch and ECU was the best choice as I was installing front and rear lockers. It looks and feels OEM; especially to me since I also have an 80 with lockers.

What are you guys going to do about locating an LED (or other type) of locked indicator? I installed two just above the dial switch. That's the only part that doesn't really look OEM.
Click to expand...

wardamneagle,
i agree completely with what you did. since you had two lockers that would be an easy call for me too. but i would never put a locker in the ifs diff. so since i only had one i went with the single RRDiff lock switch. if i ever SAS i would replicate exactly what you did probably, but with two tacoma control units maybe?

for my indicator light, rather than hack up my dash and put it where the stock tacoma is, (not that i couldnt do it, but it would be more difficult i think), i am going to just wire the indicator light out of the oem controller to the oem light in the switch. so when i push the button on the dash, the button itself will blink until engaged, then remain lit while in use. push again, it will blink until complete disengagement then go out. simple and clean. only down side is that it wont light up like my instrument panel does at night.

but, i got over that for the simple fact that the clutch cancel switch right next to it doesnt illuminate with parking lights either. so its kind of factory~ish that it doesnt light i guess?? lol
 
...and I should have said that I would have used the Tacoma switch as well if I had only installed a rear elocker.

I also forgot to say that my ECU fit just fine in the driver's side kick panel. Of course I had to remove the dash to get two multi-conductor trailer cords pulled through the firewall and over to that side but it fits well and doesn't interfere with the fuse block. My power comes from an auxillary fuse block in the engine bay.
 
The main reason I didn't use an 80 series ecu was simply because I was already running a 80 series high pinion e locker 3rd up front, for a couple years now and didn't feel like reinventing the wheel. I don't have a radio in my center console, just my ham unit which is small, I just rtv'd the 2 computers together, used 1 of the metal mounting tabs and tack welded it to the floor behind the radio. My center console is an ammo can with 2 2.5" pieces of pipe welded to it (cupholders) and since I run a soft top I have no need for the rear window control, so my diff lock switches fit perfectly above the radio in the oem blank locations , I just got 2 tiny LED's from radio shack and drilled them in.

Here's a pic of my dash

http://www.flickr.com/photos/76780453@N07/6887516643
 
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