Land Cruiser 60/61/62 or 80 for Offroading and Overlanding in Paraguay and South America? (5 Viewers)

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Joined
Jan 19, 2020
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Paraguay
Hey guys (and gals),

I am currently living in Paraguay, South America. There are many asian cars driving around here. Speaking of Toyota 4x4’s, there are lots of Toyota Hilux, Hilux Surf, Land Cruisers (of all models from the early J45’s to the new 200).

I haven’t quite decided yet, whether for me it will be a Land Cruiser 60/61/62 or 80. Other models do not interest me. If possible, I want to have an automatic transmission, because my wife will drive the car as well and she does not like stickshift. Car should have at least one differential locker, of course 3 would be best. Only Diesel versions interest me. I do not need a lot of luxury, as I will be upgrading to the luxury I personally prefer (radio, seats, tuffy box, etc.)

As I already did in my homecountry, I also want to do some offroading (mostly sand, mud, little bit of stones - but not a lot of rock-crawling), but more into the overlanding stuff over here.

So the plan is to buy a Land Cruiser in a fairly good condition, do some basic work if necessary (interior parts missing, paint, change all fluids, etc.) and later the fun stuff like offroad modifications (suspension, tires, snorkel, etc.) and overland build for sleeping inside the Cruiser, setup for solar power or 2nd battery, 12v and usb plugs, lights and so on. I do not necessarily need to do a big restauration project, because I do not know, how easily parts are available. I want to keep most parts original if possible.

Unfortunately the car market here is quite difficult, lots of frauds going on, many cars look awesome, because the detailing and cleaning of cars is cheaply available, also the Kilometers/Miles are often faked. Repairs are done in a bad way and with bad parts. Once I buy a Cruiser, the plan is to take a mechanic with me or let it check by a mechanic, but I want to know, what to look out for as well. I have some very basic experience with cars and hope to learn more, due to the (to me as a novice), seemingly fairly simple technic of the 60/80 Cruiser.

Now to my questions, what speaks for the 60/61/62 Land Cruiser? Is it quite safe in a crash situation? Obviously there aren’t any airbags, etc. available. Beginning in 1982 they had an automatic transmission, am I correct? Which motor should I look for? The 12 HT probably is a lot better compared to the 2 H, right? (Speaking of acceleration - of course it is not a race car, but probably in acceleration between the 2 motor versions a big difference or not?) How do I identify the motors? I am afraid, they will swap motors and parts here, so I cannot trust the car dealer/seller here and need to check for originality etc. myself. What are „problems“ I should look out for and avoid? How do I check if the differentials and 4 wheel drive work properly? Which build-year is best? What is a simple way to identify the model year of the 60/61/62? I am also afraid if part availability will be a problem, as sometimes it seems parts will be getting rare for the 60s models. Are all Land Cruisers 24 V models? I read it is better to start on 24 V in cold climate, but many cars here are imported, so how do I find out whether it is running on 12 V or 24 V and should I change it to 12 V if it is running on 24 V?

What speaks for the 80? Beginning in which year did they have airbags? Is there a lot of difference in the motor versions in reference to acceleration and durability? I am afraid, they will swap motors and parts here, so I cannot trust the car dealer/seller here and need to check for originality etc. myself. What are „problems“ I should look out for and avoid? How do I check if the differentials and 4 wheel drive work properly? Which build-year is best? What is a simple way to identify the model year of the 80? Are all Land Cruisers 24 V models? I read it is better to start on 24 V in cold climate, but many cars here are imported, so how do I find out whether it is running on 12 V or 24 V and should I change it to 12 V if it is running on 24 V?

What else should I look out for? Maybe there is even a fellow IH8MUD member in the area, who would be willing to accompany me to check out some Cruisers, as I read before here, of some members having lived in Paraguay as well.

Anyways, hope to receive some help here, as I already read a lot of interesting stuff, builds, restauration processes on here.

Thanks for your help in advance and cheers!
 
I haven’t quite decided yet, whether for me it will be a Land Cruiser 60/61/62 or 80.

80 Series is better in every way, except looks. Engine, suspension, frame, lockers, interior, etc. Post '94 with the 24 Valve HD-FT and A442 Auto with OD are the most desirable. Upgraded rear discs and larger brakes post '93. Post '95 had ABS.

I read it is better to start on 24 V in cold climate, but many cars here are imported, so how do I find out whether it is running on 12 V or 24 V and should I change it to 12 V if it is running on 24 V?

24V will have two batteries and parallel/series switching solenoid (LH fender). While it might start better with 24V in the cold, it's no better for the engine. Better to install a Webasto diesel fired coolant heater for cold starts below -5 C if on a regular basis.

12V start with 2 batteries allows you to parallel when winching, cold starting (more CCA), running the fridge for an extra couple of hours or if your main starting battery dies. Much better set-up for touring. A 24V system would require 3 batteries for the same funtionality, or 4 for the same redundancy.
 
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80 Series is better in every way, except looks. Engine, suspension, frame, lockers, interior, etc. Post '94 with the 24 Valve HD-FT and A442 Auto with OD are the most desirable. Upgraded rear discs and larger brakes post '93. Post '95 had ABS.

Hi SHREDwagon thank you for taking the time to respond to my questions.

That is what I figured, so heart should decide 60 and head 80. At the moment I think I am going for the 80, mainly due to the more powerful motor as I do not want to do an engine swap or change it too much. Maybe thinking of upgrading to an aluminium cooler, tuning hoses/air intake, KN filter, etc. but not too much of changing a good running system. So all 80s from 94 and older do have the HD-FT motor? To upgrade the brakes I only have to swap them to bigger ones, if I should buy a model prior to 93, am I correct? Are the ABS models suggested? I have never driven a car without ABS, I have faced problems with ABS sensors and it can be a pain in the a**, normally I think, less electronics, less problems. But I am not sure about safety features like ABS, airbags etc. did any model 80 have airbags?

24V will have two batteries and parallel/series switching solenoid (LH fender). While it might start better with 24V in the cold, it's no better for the engine. Better to install a Webasto diesel fired coolant heater for cold starts below -5 C if on a regular basis.


Thanks for the input, well cold is not a problem here, I am living in Paraguay. I looked up the 24V to 12V change threads here and on other forums and it seems quite complicated, don't know if I want to mess up a running system. Does it get much complicated to install aftermarket stuff? I know that there is the possibility to get 12V winches like WARN or Milemarker also in 24V, as military vehicles run on 24V if I am correctly informed. What about 12V usb-charging plugs, cables for charging iPhone, inverters, freezers/fridges or lightbars, compressor (for tires inflation and airlocker)? I don't want to make a lot of electrical changes, just these ones and maybe a solarpanel. But if these installs are very difficult to make or get if running on 24V, maybe I should consider changing the cruiser to 12V.

12V start with 2 batteries allows you to parallel when winching, cold starting (more CCA), running the fridge for an extra couple of hours or if your main starting battery dies. Much better set-up for touring. A 24V system would require 3 batteries for the same funtionality, or 4 for the same redundancy.

Yeah I am more into the Overlanding kind of stuff and would want to run a fridge, so did you change your system to 12V and recommend it? Seems really difficult to do. A third battery only for the fridge, radio, etc. powered by a solarpanel an run in the back would maybe be an option, but I am not sure yet. Which size are the standard cruiser batteries in the 80? (How many aH)?

Cheers!
 
Yes, all post 08-94 have the 24 Valve HD-FT motor and are ALL 12V btw, including starter motor. The HD-T uses 24V for starting ONLY by way of a series/parallel switching solenoid - alternator is 12V and so are all electronics so no converter is required.

If you end up getting a HD-T with the 24V start, simply swap out the starter for a 12V and bypass the solenoid at the fusebox. Pretty simple. This will allow you to isolate the 2nd battery for "house" duty using a relay to parallel and charge. I prefer the "smart" relays from IBS or National Luna as they automatically isolate the starting battery with the key out of the ignition and allow solar to charge both batteries as well. Other products allow your battery to drain to 11.7V before isolating the starting battery - which is useless for a diesel with a 4.5Kw starter motor.

IMHO, replacing the radiator or air filter with anything other than OEM is a downgrade. For touring, the only aftermarket replacement parts I would recommend from experience are turbo, intercooler and suspension.

Good luck shopping.
 
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Hey CP. Just wondering if you had considered importing a truck to PY? I am mulling that over.
 
+1 80 over 60.
Largely for the reliable transmission, 4-corner coil springs, high-pinion front diff, selectable low range, and modifiable lo/hi range available lockers. K294 VIN indicator.
12/24V 4.5L gas I6 or 12 or 24V 4.2L diesel I6, with or w/o turbo.
Recommend fully 24V model over 12/24V model. And run all add-on accessories on 24V.
Otherwise you can always pick 12V off a twin-battery 24V system by wiring to one of the 2 battery's +/- terminals.
 

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