FWIW, in most cases a threaded connection reaches full strength when the threaded part reaches a depth equal to it's width. In other words, when your 10mm stud is inserted into the threaded hole 10mm deep, it has reached full strength potential. Threading it in further doesn't help strength, although it may be necessary to position the stud shank properly. The stud will break before the threads tear out. This assumes the stud and hole are the same material. As Inkpot and others said, the torque is applied via the nut. Be careful using loctite, if you allow it to set up before you tighten the nut, it will create a plastic bridge between the threads, preventing metal-to-metal contact. This plastic bridge could compress over time, leaving your assembly loose. If you use loctite on the nut as well, you can never get an accurate torque reading on that fastener again. Once it dries, you will be measuring the torque applied to the fastener plus the resistance of the loctite. That doesn't tell you how well the parts are being drawn together. Some assemblies require that, most don't.
I periodically check my steering knuckle torque values, usually at oil changes or when I'm under the truck for maintenance. I just set the wrench for the correct value and try to tighten the fasteners. If all is good, the wrench should click before anything moves. If something moves before it clicks, I know I need to keep an eye on that fastener. If it moves and never clicks, I know it's time to cry and start looking for a Helicoil kit.
Those studs/nuts do get loose occasionally, I assume from the extreme duty or from beating on rocks or whatever. Problems come when they are left loose, allowing the assembly to shift around. That's when threads get stripped and the knuckle falls off while driving. We've seen it several times around here. Not fun to repair on a trail.
