Kitsap Cruiser - Newbie in the PNW

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Szyd

Szyd

Joined
Apr 7, 2019
Threads
3
Messages
41
Location
Gig Harbor WA
I researched the data from this thread for months and finally pulled the trigger on my first Land Cruiser. Reading these threads made me way more comfortable purchasing this 1994 FZJ80 with 233k miles out of Bend OR, especially for the price I got it for. I appreciate you all and just wanted to post and say thank you for the info as a lurker.

My plan for the rig is to make it a weekend camping rig that my lady can daily drive 10 miles a day to work. We live out in rural Kitsap Peninsula of Washington and she finally gave me the okay to get her a 4WD. It's all fully stock and OG and has got some battle scars and the CEL pulled a code 71 but overall it runs very nicely. I'm super stoked on this project. Thank you all in advance for the future help!

On the list
-full fluids flush and change
-33" tires
-new brake booster
-EGR delete
-OME kit
-remove running boards for rock sliders
-new front bumper
-new roof rack
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I'd add a new factory rubber intake tube to your list of items that need to be fixed. The one on your truck looks like it has about 10 yards of electrical tape rapped around it to fix an intake leak.
 
Rifleman said:
I'd add a new factory rubber intake tube to your list of items that need to be fixed. The one on your truck looks like it has about 10 yards of electrical tape rapped around it to fix an intake leak.
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Yeah it's on that list. It's servicing fine for now but don't expect it to last very long.
 
Wow, looks very clean! Either they did a bunch of upkeep on it or they degreased / pressure washed the engine bay before selling it.

Good find. You got the best flavor of the 80 IMO.

PS download the FSM's here save them on your computer, a flash drive, burn them on to a CD, have someone transcribe them in stone... You get the idea, it's invaluable to have. Code 71 is an EGR code.... who cares...
 
SmokingRocks said:
Wow, looks very clean! Either they did a bunch of upkeep on it or they degreased / pressure washed the engine bay before selling it.

Good find. You got the best flavor of the 80 IMO.

PS download the FSM's here save them on your computer, a flash drive, burn them on to a CD, have someone transcribe them in stone... You get the idea, it's invaluable to have. Code 71 is an EGR code.... who cares...
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Dude, thanks for those links. I saved them to my Google drive and will be flipping through them tonight. 🤙

The guy I bought the cruiser off of had kept good care of it and had an FJ62 he rebuilt. The only thing concerning me with the 71 code is that on driving it home the 300 miles from Oregon there was a little bit of a hesitation or pull above 70mph. It only happened once or twice during the drive above 70-75. It was a little jutter so I was thinking the code 71 was tricking the EGR and air flow sensor making it not know what to do. The whole rest of the drive at 60-65 there were zero issues. Even got 17mpg for those 300 miles
 
Nice buy, congrats. As for the 71, either search for how to test the EGR components or search for how go delete the EGR. Since youre new to it, if you eliminate the need for a new EGR modulator (again search, its an easy test) its likely your VSV valve, clogged vacuum that runs through the upper intake tube, cracked vacuum hose or blocked EGR inlet that can be seen if you remove throttle body. Its a pain in the butt but not as complicated as it sounds.
 
whaler said:
Nice buy, congrats. As for the 71, either search for how to test the EGR components or search for how go delete the EGR. Since youre new to it, if you eliminate the need for a new EGR modulator (again search, its an easy test) its likely your VSV valve, clogged vacuum that runs through the upper intake tube, cracked vacuum hose or blocked EGR inlet that can be seen if you remove throttle body. Its a pain in the butt but not as complicated as it sounds.
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I'm reading up now on the EGR delete. I had that in the back of my mind but didn't know if I should keep it as stock as humanly possible. The vacuum lines most def will be checked out this weekend.

Thanks man.
 
yes, if you just cap the vacuum line going to the EGR modulator from the intake manifold the valve will never open. Essentially disabling it in place. I do this because every 2 years I have to run emissions and its a ton easier to just put a vac hose back in rather than the whole EGR to get past visual inspection.

Removing the system is right up there with the PHH on the 'pain in the ass scale'.
 
SmokingRocks said:
yes, if you just cap the vacuum line going to the EGR modulator from the intake manifold the valve will never open. Essentially disabling it in place. I do this because every 2 years I have to run emissions and its a ton easier to just put a vac hose back in rather than the whole EGR to get past visual inspection.

Removing the system is right up there with the PHH on the 'pain in the ass scale'.
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Got it. 🤙 I think that seems like the best option. The county I live in here in Washington doesn't test so I don't really have to worry too much anyways.

Since my shop on the property I bought isn't built yet I'm all about the smarter and easier fixes. No room to pull the damn rig entirely thing apart right now. Haha
 
I live not too far from bend, saw that rig on Craigslist. Looked like a good deal! Congrats! Looks pretty clean.
 
Nice score! It looks like it may have a newer radiator too.
I think us 94 and older folks are exempt from emissions now (Washington state) too are we not? I may have misread the pamphlet last time I was at the Licensing office.
 
MrMikeyG said:
Nice score! It looks like it may have a newer radiator too.
I think us 94 and older folks are exempt from emissions now (Washington state) too are we not? I may have misread the pamphlet last time I was at the Licensing office.
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Yessir it's a brand new radiator and hoses. PO did it a few weeks before I bought it.

In Kitsap County there are no emissions at all. But for King and Pierce I believe it is the 25 year thing. But next year all cars are exempt for emissions testing. The state is eliminating the program 🤙
 
Just as an update I pulled the trigger on some new meats to keep her safe on the road. The longer I drove it on those 10+ year old cheapo tires the more I hated it. After digging the forums again and reading some stellar reviews I decided against Duratracs and went with the Falken Wildpeak AT3W (285/75-16) It's only been 24 hours and 20 miles later but I'm definitely digging them.

As an side RADwood announced their show up in the PNW on July 20th. I decided to register this brown beauty to show her off amongst all the hipster Subarus that will be there. This will light a fire under my ass to get her looking pretty and get a few more things done before the show. 95 days to go..


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I will second what @SmokingRocks said about the egr delete. It is a pain in the ass. If you would like to get the pieces out of your engine bay, read though a couple of the threads. Make sure you have the appropriate wrenches on hand (I did not), remove the hood, don't put a new heater control valve on before this, be sure to dig the inappropriate wrench you went ahead and used into the main wire harness and cause more damage than the egr pipe would have anyway. Oh, and double check that you indeed have the proper block off plate on hand too.
In all seriousness, If I were going to do this on another truck, I would pull the hood off. That, and getting an 1-1/4" (I think?) wrench for the valve union nut would have saved me a bunch of time. Nothing else really fits in there. (big crescent, big vise grips, etc)
Oreillys carries a decent selection of Dorman brand rubber vacuum caps. I referenced a pack of them in my "new 80" thread.
This Radwood thing sounds like it could be interesting, but I think I'm gone that weekend.
 
MrMikeyG said:
I will second what @SmokingRocks said about the egr delete. It is a pain in the ass. If you would like to get the pieces out of your engine bay, read though a couple of the threads. Make sure you have the appropriate wrenches on hand (I did not), remove the hood, don't put a new heater control valve on before this, be sure to dig the inappropriate wrench you went ahead and used into the main wire harness and cause more damage than the egr pipe would have anyway. Oh, and double check that you indeed have the proper block off plate on hand too.
In all seriousness, If I were going to do this on another truck, I would pull the hood off. That, and getting an 1-1/4" (I think?) wrench for the valve union nut would have saved me a bunch of time. Nothing else really fits in there. (big crescent, big vise grips, etc)
Oreillys carries a decent selection of Dorman brand rubber vacuum caps. I referenced a pack of them in my "new 80" thread.
This Radwood thing sounds like it could be interesting, but I think I'm gone that weekend.
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I think the blocking of the vacuum lines and disabling the EGR seems like the better and easier option at this point. Still need to research it. Thanks for the advice on the hood and tools.
 
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