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@jonheld, does the ECU need a permissive from the fuel system to initiate spark system or are they totally independent? In other words, since my fuel pump is disconnected, does it somehow prevent the spark generation at the distributor? If so, I need to get the fuel side sorted before chasing down spark.
The ECU can regulate fuel pressure, but it does not directly "monitor" fuel pressure.
There is no OBD2 code for fuel pressure on this vehicle.
There is no OBD2 code for fuel pump on this vehicle.
The ECU doesn't "know" that the fuel pump is disconnected.

Pulse generation at the distributor is completely passive. Magnets passing by coils to develop pulses.
The distributor doesn't even get +12.

The igniter and ignition coil both get +12 and the igniter MUST be grounded to the bracket and bolted in place.
 
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Very insightful Jon! Thanks! Will check grounds.
 
Very insightful Jon! Thanks! Will check grounds.
Spark arc confirmed on coil wire going from coil to distributor. Have a feeling it is the crappy aftermarket spark plug wires PO has put in. Distributor internals look really good. Have a spare dizzy just in case.
 
Got the OEM spark plug kit installed. So much better than the NGK brand from PO.

Also redid the fuel pump connection. Cut off the Walbro wide spade connector (top) and added smaller pin OEM connector (bottom) which makes much better and more solid contact with Denso pump pins.

Will drain the old gas out and fill with fresh before trying to fire it up.

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Parking for future reference and use by others. Connectors on my dizzy and AFM did not have a locking tab. Tried to order new from dealer. Got quoted $23 each and have to be ordered. @OGBeno did us all a great favor by itemizing all the engine harness connector part numbers on the 80 (link below) and I found this website that sells OEM connectors for $7 each plus shipping. Total for both was $25 in a flat rate shipping box. Get the part number from OGBeno’s link and search KSV site with it.


 
She runs!!!! Put in the new OEM fuel pump connector, new denso pump, new OEM dizzy cap and plug/coil wires, drained 15 gallons of turpentine, filled with fresh ethanol free gas, hit the switch and it fired right up. Looks like I yanked the right wires/ systems for the security system and aftermarket automatic door lock rats nest.

Need to sit by it for a couple of hours and let my eyes roam to list up the baselining list.

1st on the list is brake bleeding.
 
Power bleeder was an epic fail. The type C air connector on the piece that connects to the reservoir does not seal. Tried various things! Almost flung it across the barn!

I have an Autel OB2 scanner with the power bleed feature. Plugged it in, but it did not pick up the 1997 fzj80 automatically or with VIN! This pumps the ABS pump which helps a ton. So….

Asked :princess: for her trusty foot and flushed, bled. Brakes feel great now. Took it for a spin and ABS light came (not flashing, steady) on as did the check engine light. Need to look into that! Truck is sssooo smooth! No power issues despite MIL.

Fired up the leaf blower and blew the cobwebs out and gave Kimchi a wash!
 
Did code pull on diagnostic port. Code 35. DS front or PS rear open circuit. Checked wires closely. DA front connector cracked. Gave me perfect excuse to delete ABS and LSPV. Going to 37” on this build. I would have to do it anyway.

Also investigated 2nd knock sensor code. Removed front wheel and peeled back mud guards to see that connector was hanging!!! Well that was easy I thought. Reconnected it and took it for a spin. Still threw a code. Pulled knock sensor and diagnosed it with a multimeter per FSM. It checked out. Checked the connector under a bright light, someone tried to mash it in and it is toast even through it “clicked” in. Ordered a new connector from KSV. Incoming. Knock sensor did not have “Denso” or TEQ on it. Ordered a new one.
 
I was just about to text you that something had to have happened with a wire or connector under the truck somewhere. Had this happen to me on a Toyota before. Remove the bulb!
 
Bulb is coming out! Just want a simple brake bleed system. ABS module and piping seems to be barely below reservoir level. Lots a room for bubbles to hang. What is wierd was I did not touch the connector during bleed. It was barely connected I guess.
 
Bulb is coming out! Just want a simple brake bleed system. ABS module and piping seems to be barely below reservoir level. Lots a room for bubbles to hang. What is wierd was I did not touch the connector during bleed. It was barely connected I guess.
It was probably Aggie
 
@thatcabledude reminded me of ibooster option developed by @torfab. Ordered his kit, eBay harness and a ibooster. Right time to do it as I figure out the best plan for 37’s which are still brewing.
 
Micky mouse ear. OEM DS was botched by previous owner. Aftermarket. We will see how it holds up. It will be painted together with the rest of the truck. Once brakes are done, bumpers come off and off to paint.

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While I wait for Torfab’s iBooster parts, other parts are rolling in.

Cruiser outfitters has new OEM extended brake lines for lifted 80 series. Pic has the parts you would need. Need a total of 7 brake lines to redo all on the truck. Pretty penny these are. Should last another 15 years at least.

Also got new OEA knock sensor and OEM radiator cap.

Also got new knock sensor connector in an installed.

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Scored an unbelievable deal on Slee gen2 bumper and ARB front bumper with winch/ lights delivered from Montana to my house for $2k! I just put a wanted ad on Mud and got a ping from someone. A blind squirrel gets a nut periodically. Never this lucky! I volunteered to pay the person some gas money. I will tearing out the OEM rear bumper and front Trail Gear bumper prior to paint. These new to me bumpers will go on after paint.

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So I completed the Ibooster install, bled brakes. What a difference. Didn’t get flung through the windshield because I had my seatbelt on. Almost severed a trachea though. It’s amazing. Highly recommend this upgrade. Unlike traditional process of making sure push rod distance is just right with brake tool, the ibooster auto calibrates when powered up. Torfab kit is legit!

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Also put in a new knock sensor and new connector. No more knock sensor codes.
 
Ordered a bunch of OEM parts for engine baselining which are still not here. Wondering if to tear into it now or take bumpers, side steps off and take it in for a high end Maaco “glass in” job. Might get some more run time on it and then send it in for paint.
 
Worst threat to a 1fzfe is cooling. Getting that sorted. Parts came in. I also have the front end leaks to do. Best done when radiator is out. Since I am getting the oil pump cover off, I will replace oil pump. Also fuel filter is also easy to access. Will be doing alternator bushings. Doing landtank fan clutch. Also getting PHH bypass done. Nothing new. All done before. Just documenting for my future reference. Also got hard lines to clean up to look factory non-ABS for Ibooster mod.

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