JVC KD-X320BTS Head Unit Install (1 Viewer)

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Finally getting around to installing a new HU in my 97 LC. Went with a JVC unit that is a media player only, with built in bluetooth. It was a great price and had some good reviews so I figured I would give it a shot.

Here is a shot of the HU:




Now when reading through the less than helpful instructions from Crutchfield/JVC I got a little confused. Any input would be greatly appreciated as I have not plugged this thing in yet, as its getting late.

When looking at the harnesses from JVC and Crutchfield there are 4 RCA plugs that aren't really explained as to where they go. I went out on a limb and believe I am correct, however any reassurance would be wonderful. So the harness going from JVC unit to Metra has your normal ground(black), 12V Ign Switch(red), and a 12v constant(yellow) which all match up to the Metra harness(PN 70-8112). However the JVC harness also has all the + and - leads for the speakers(FR, FL, RR, RL)...of which there are none on the Metra harness to tie to. The metro harness then has 4 RCA plugs that follow the same color scheme as the leads coming from the JVC harness and are called the same in the manual(FR, FL, RR, RL).





There are also 2 blue/white leads for the steering wheel controls (which will get left untouched as there are none) and the second one has this attached to it:



I have removed my power antenna, and I don't believe there is an Amp? If I am mistaken let me know as I really do not know...just assuming as I thought I read somewhere that only the LX came with the amp/sub combo.

This ones getting left untouched:


My other question is regarding the orange/white lead coming from the HU harness. There is no mate on the other harness, so I am assuming it gets left untouched as well? It is called out as the "ILLUMINATION/DIMMER" lead. I had read else where on here that this lead was to be left untouched, however would love confirmation of that.


So far this is what I am seeing as how the final product should look. Speaker leads are left, as the RCA plugs handle them. Both blue/white lines left untouched as they are not needed. Orange/white is left untouched as it is no longer used. Its late now, so I will be plugging it in tomorrow AM. Photos of where I have left it as of now, would love to hear if this is correct or if I am way off. Thanks in advance!

 
Joined
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The orange and white is for a light sensor. Make sure that both of the pairs of RCA's on the HU are amplified. Mine had one set amplified and one set pre amp. If one set is preamp then you need to run a splitter from the amped side. I can't say for the 97, by my 93 has a stock amp for the speakers I tied into.
 
Joined
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Messages
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San Clemente, CA
The orange and white is for a light sensor. Make sure that both of the pairs of RCA's on the HU are amplified. Mine had one set amplified and one set pre amp. If one set is preamp then you need to run a splitter from the amped side. I can't say for the 97, by my 93 has a stock amp for the speakers I tied into.
Roger that, thanks for the tip. I will look into the EWD book and do some better research this morning. Cheers!
 
Joined
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Southeast Michigan
With the current wiring setup you have, you'll be using the factory amp (behind the glovebox), which is not ideal. Are you installing an amplifier as well? If not, you need to use the line level speaker outputs (purple/green/white/grey wires) instead of the RCA's.

I think you'll need a different adapter harness. I bought the Metra 70-1761 for $5 on Amazon. It will attach to both plugs that previously went to the factory amp. You'll have to lengthen it to reach from the new HU to the old amp location.

These threads should help you get started:
New stereo and factory amp bypass
So you want to install an aftermarket HU + Amp + Sub.....
 
Joined
Sep 15, 2015
Messages
232
Location
San Clemente, CA
With the current wiring setup you have, you'll be using the factory amp (behind the glovebox), which is not ideal. Are you installing an amplifier as well? If not, you need to use the line level speaker outputs (purple/green/white/grey wires) instead of the RCA's.

I think you'll need a different adapter harness. I bought the Metra 70-1761 for $5 on Amazon. It will attach to both plugs that previously went to the factory amp. You'll have to lengthen it to reach from the new HU to the old amp location.

These threads should help you get started:
New stereo and factory amp bypass
So you want to install an aftermarket HU + Amp + Sub.....

Bummer...I will read up on those and search for that harness you sent the link for. Frustrating that the Crutchfield doesn't provide better details on this kit in particular. My last one from them was great and super easy. Much appreciated info Josh!
 
Joined
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Messages
105
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Southeast Michigan
Don't get me wrong, your current setup should work as-is, but you're still going through the old factory amp. It'll sound much better once you bypass it altogether. Does your truck have the two unused grey plugs along with the white plug for the HU? If so, you don't have to lengthen the Metra 70-1761, just solder it to you HU harness and unplug the factory amp.
 
Joined
Aug 16, 2014
Messages
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Gainesville/Daytona, Fl
 
I'm not sure I agree, mine sou DS fine thought the factory amp, there are two different harnesses, not sure if you have the one that utilizes the amp or not. I'm guessing that the RWS on that HU is not large enough to power all of the speakers
Your decision, but I would utilize the factory amp
 
Joined
Aug 10, 2015
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PNW
 
I just did my stereo install recently. Mine is a 93, so I'm not sure about the differences(if any). The harness I used was already in the car(had an old crappy sony deck) and it didn't use the RCA plugs, just the purple, white, grey, etc. wires for the speakers. I've installed quite a few stereos and I noticed a couple odd things during my installation.

1. I initially tried running the stereo without the blue remote wire and I had all kinds of distortion and odd sounds, then I'd get no sound. This is because the factory amp needs the remote wire hooked up.

2. The factory amp is terrible. I came to the conclusion that it really isn't worth running. If I turned up the stereo past a certain volume level, the amp would just shut off, I'd have no sound anymore and at first I had no idea what was going on. Turning off the stereo and turning it back on and then immediately turning the volume down seemed to work, but I couldn't get enough volume out of it for it to be enjoyable.

3. I made the decision to disconnect it. I THOUGHT that would require cutting a bunch of wires and re-routing the wires into and out of the amp.... WRONG. All I had to do was unplug all the plugs going into the amp. I used a multimeter to determine this, but somehow everything is connected even when the factory amp is unplugged.

4. Now I can now turn up the stereo WAY LOUDER and it sounds WAY BETTER and it doesn't randomly shut off.

More than likely, your new stereo has a way better amp built into it than the factory one and you'll get much better results that way. This is the harness that's installed in mine and works wonderfully once the factory amp is disconnected.

EDIT: I disconnected the dash speakers and the upper speakers towards the hatch as well. They run an odd ohm reading and I didn't want the new speakers I installed to be robbed of power.

I also ran a solo power wire directly to the battery so i could turn the stereo on/off without being required to put the key in the ignition. This of course is personal preference. You CAN do this by running both the red and yellow wire from the stereo into the yellow wire of the harness, but I wanted the stereo to have it's own fuse instead of sharing it with the clock, etc.
 
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Joined
Jun 29, 2015
Messages
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Southeast Michigan
If you don't mind losing the rear ceiling speakers and "sub" in the rear quarter panel, then bypass the amp. Sure the factory amp may sound "fine" but you have a newer, better amp in the HU and it's a $5 harness to use it... Here's a handy Youtube video on the process!
 

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