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- #121
let's try this again
just bought a 96 80....
- Thread starter Midgainc
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- Thread starter
- #122
And the finished product.
I wonder what a shop would charge to do all of this, including the spool change in the t case.....
I wonder what a shop would charge to do all of this, including the spool change in the t case.....
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- #123
as a side note, once you pop the shaft out of the birfield, you can fill the birf with grease easily by popping open a tube of grease and placing it in the end of the birf and squeezing it. it fits quite well and you use about 1/2 a tube.
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- #124
Also, removing the C-clip from the axle is a non event using snap ring pliers, the ones with the pins on the end.
However, installing is nearly impossible using them. I struggled for 30 mins and decided to get these. It was a 10 second ordeal using the right tools.
However, installing is nearly impossible using them. I struggled for 30 mins and decided to get these. It was a 10 second ordeal using the right tools.
Yep !!
ugh - youre just reminding me that I have to do my front axle...its so messy!
Looking clean!
Looking clean!
- Thread starter
- #127
the last time I did one was for a FJ55 prob 10 years ago. I had forgotten how many steps there are to it and how much of a mess it is. at least the 80 has disk brakes and that was much easier.
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- #128
replaced all fuel lines on top of tank and put new pump in the tank. hope to get the tank put back in tomorrow.. also installed new vac controllers and new vac lines under upper intake. one vac port that passes through intake was completely clogged.. i had to use a drill and bit to open it back up....still not looking forward to the head removal...
While I truly admire the work your doing, I’m of the mind set that if it ant broke don’t fix it.
There’s no way I would have dropped that tank if the pump was still working.
But that just me.
Same goes for the head gasket. I just don’t see it as Preventive maintenance.
Carry on nice work.
There’s no way I would have dropped that tank if the pump was still working.
But that just me.
Same goes for the head gasket. I just don’t see it as Preventive maintenance.
Carry on nice work.
- Thread starter
- #130
two things happen when you dissaemble an old machine, you get to know it, and you find things wrong with it. I have found several things along the way that needed repair and so far, have no regrets about it. I do look forward to when it is all done. I am not convinced that the head gasket is not leaking , so I go find out for sure.
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- #131
tank didn't go in today because I found a Crack in the overflow hose...so, I will be replacing the fill hose and overflow hoses now. I did manage to get the wiring harness pulled through the intake and remove the lower intake from the block. I am going to rate just getting to this point at the "expert" level. About the only thing more difficult than this would be rebuilding an automatic transmission for the first time. For those of you considering doing it, there are hundreds of ways to hurt and cut yourself, numerous contorted configurations you have to manage, and numerous hoses and clamps that do not want to let go. plan now is to remove the head on the 4th of July. The real work is going to be putting it back in an order that will does not necessitate installing and removing in the wrong order. Happy 4th everyone.
I think most pull the head with the intake still attached.
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- #133
the tank was dropped to give me headroom while doing the t case work. it made a huge difference. so...while it was out, go ahead and buy once and cry once...(or twice...)
Interesting. What did it give you better access to? Just curious. I've had the back cover off my t-case for part-time conversion a couple of times, plus I've swapped the transfer case out entirely (a real bitch). I'm wondering if I missed out on any convenience.
I've dropped my tank a few inches to get access to the vent next to the fuel pump, but that's as far as I've gone with it. I still managed to strip out one of the strap nuts due to built-up crud on the bolt threads. Should have taken more care to clean the threads before attempting to back out the bolt...
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- #135
I don't have a lift, but setting the rear tires on 6x6's and removing the tank, allowed me to sit up straight under the rig with plenty of elbow room. It was filthy with grease and grit, so it allowed me to clean it once again. while it was out, I went ahead and serviced all hoses and the pump. that's a done deal.
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- #136
today was a productive day. head has been removed.
it looks to me like someone did a head gasket in the bottle fix on it. However, all of the head bolt washers were missisng, and there were no valve shims. Someone has been in there before. A couple of the intake cam bearing surfaces have small grooves in them.
What to do now? Do I check heads, replaces oil seals, and pit it back together? Or, do I Mic the cams, replace if necessary, and go all in for a new head? I want 100,000 miles out of it, but not sure how significant slight grooves in cam bearings is. For all we know, they have been there for the last 200,000 miles. Oil pressure has always been decent. After it is cleaned, it may go down. Cylinder walls still have cross hatching. Inside of head and valve cover is pretty dirty. Give your 2 cents worth.
Head gasket leak is usually on # 6 cylinder by the firewall.
At a minimal have the head checked for flatness and valve seals as they tend to go out on these.
Hopefully someone else can chime in about the cam bearings !!
At a minimal have the head checked for flatness and valve seals as they tend to go out on these.
Hopefully someone else can chime in about the cam bearings !!
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- #138
the machine shop said they were not too concerned with the minor scoring on the bearing faces. hopefully tomorrow, there will be the results of the pressure testing, warpage test, and test for cracks. they did say a valve job would be $400+.. I iterated that I wanted to supply the oem valve seals., which would be oem.
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- #140
machine shop said head pressure and vac checked great, but is warped. need 7 to 10 thousandths milled. I am ordering oem seals and then it's time to put it all back together.