just another SUV (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Matthes
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #42
Cut`n clean
It took me some hour`s to get everything cleaned up, without destroying anything. Especially the "bridge" witch handels all the rear links and coil`s was timeconsuming. Up to three layers of sheetmetall. And more rust than expected.
It took me some hour`s to get everything cleaned up, without destroying anything. Especially the "bridge" witch handels all the rear links and coil`s was timeconsuming. Up to three layers of sheetmetall. And more rust than expected.
- Thread starter
- #45
Rear axle
The grinder still hot, went to the next part. Rear axle, from a Lc 80.
The wms to wms was 62,5", i need 58". I will use the left driveshaft from the 80, means no cut on the driverside and the right driveshaft from a Lc 60.The right 80 is 735 mm, the 60 is 609 mm, means i can shorten this 84mm. That is not enough. But there is a 60 rear axle with original locker, the spline shoud have a lenght from 105 mm. Means by using this one i can cut max 54 mm, rest is needed to engage proper in the diff. I need this to cut this shaft only 40mm. Than i am good. Called Poly, they dont have it in stock right now. Have to wait or spend much money at the T. dealership.We will see. Right now i have cut it down only 84 mm, the spindle was ca.2,5 mm to thick to get it back without destroying the thread, i got it turned down 1,5mm and pressed back in the axle. Will testfitt and see how it comes out.
Matt
The grinder still hot, went to the next part. Rear axle, from a Lc 80.
The wms to wms was 62,5", i need 58". I will use the left driveshaft from the 80, means no cut on the driverside and the right driveshaft from a Lc 60.The right 80 is 735 mm, the 60 is 609 mm, means i can shorten this 84mm. That is not enough. But there is a 60 rear axle with original locker, the spline shoud have a lenght from 105 mm. Means by using this one i can cut max 54 mm, rest is needed to engage proper in the diff. I need this to cut this shaft only 40mm. Than i am good. Called Poly, they dont have it in stock right now. Have to wait or spend much money at the T. dealership.We will see. Right now i have cut it down only 84 mm, the spindle was ca.2,5 mm to thick to get it back without destroying the thread, i got it turned down 1,5mm and pressed back in the axle. Will testfitt and see how it comes out.
Matt
I get 126mm from this?? You guys up there do your subtraction very strangely. That alone should give you 57.5, which you can then use 1/4" spacers and get exactly the wms for which you are looking.
Bobby Long will make any length you want, double splined, then use his chromo drive flange. I shortened the right side 5.75", so by your measurements a wms of 56.75. I don't remember the exact measurement, but mine was made to match the front axle which is from an fj62.
The Long setup with a custom shaft and the flange was under $300 shipped to me. It was ordered on a Friday and delivered to my house on Monday.
My axle also has the 80-series e-locker and the axle shaft splines are 105mm.
- Thread starter
- #47
Calculation
Hi,
and yes, "we" are strange,not only with calculations.
Good way to get attention or just distract the audience is:
-post never in time, much later is good
-post pics with workshopcalculations
-post late at night
-integrate all your thoughts and calculations in your build, but don`t share all "in time"
You are right, i will gain 12,5 cm +/- 1mm My pic shows this with red digits, and this with using the original Toy driveshaft out of the 60 full float rear.
I mixed up my numbers, the 80 frame is wider than the 4Runner frame. 84 mm is one number out of this changes. Will show this also.
I will not use the Longfield "system" for my rear end. Front is another thing.
But Friday to Monday shipped to Norway, no way. We will see.
Matt
I get 126mm from this?? You guys up there do your subtraction very strangely. That alone should give you 57.5, which you can then use 1/4" spacers and get exactly the wms for which you are looking.
Bobby Long will make any length you want, double splined, then use his chromo drive flange. I shortened the right side 5.75", so by your measurements a wms of 56.75. I don't remember the exact measurement, but mine was made to match the front axle which is from an fj62.
The Long setup with a custom shaft and the flange was under $300 shipped to me. It was ordered on a Friday and delivered to my house on Monday.
My axle also has the 80-series e-locker and the axle shaft splines are 105mm.
Hi,
and yes, "we" are strange,not only with calculations.
Good way to get attention or just distract the audience is:
-post never in time, much later is good
-post pics with workshopcalculations
-post late at night
-integrate all your thoughts and calculations in your build, but don`t share all "in time"
You are right, i will gain 12,5 cm +/- 1mm
My pic shows this with red digits, and this with using the original Toy driveshaft out of the 60 full float rear.I mixed up my numbers, the 80 frame is wider than the 4Runner frame. 84 mm is one number out of this changes. Will show this also.
I will not use the Longfield "system" for my rear end. Front is another thing.
But Friday to Monday shipped to Norway, no way
. We will see.Matt
- Thread starter
- #48
Replacement
Hi,
got some time in the workshop.
My goal was to get a the rear end in, figure a setup, getting a idea how high this will end up, figure clearance for tires and coils and shox. I have to reinforce some areas, my approval enginer has an eye on it.
Since i decided to use as much as possibel from the Lexus and after all that research i figured it woud be good to use the Lexus rad and fan. Most people that make this swap go with a costum made rad, which is expensive compared to buy a Lexus. You can also read here and there about cooling problems after that. You have to remove the original fan from the engine and figure a electrical fan/shroud setup. I don`t wanna get in to this.
Instead i moved the engine more back than "usually". That leads than to space problems on the firewall. I like to deal with that better than with the "cooling problem".
The point is, i never made enought space behind the engine, so that i just rest the body somehow on the frame.
I started preparing my axle/ suspension swap with cutting a big hole in the firewall. I kept all the mounting places for the trottle and brake and clutch in place. Also the steering, witch will probably movenot quite shure yet..
Matt
Hi,
got some time in the workshop.
My goal was to get a the rear end in, figure a setup, getting a idea how high this will end up, figure clearance for tires and coils and shox. I have to reinforce some areas, my approval enginer has an eye on it.
Since i decided to use as much as possibel from the Lexus and after all that research i figured it woud be good to use the Lexus rad and fan. Most people that make this swap go with a costum made rad, which is expensive compared to buy a Lexus.
You can also read here and there about cooling problems after that. You have to remove the original fan from the engine and figure a electrical fan/shroud setup. I don`t wanna get in to this.Instead i moved the engine more back than "usually". That leads than to space problems on the firewall. I like to deal with that better than with the "cooling problem".
The point is, i never made enought space behind the engine, so that i just rest the body somehow on the frame.
I started preparing my axle/ suspension swap with cutting a big hole in the firewall. I kept all the mounting places for the trottle and brake and clutch in place. Also the steering, witch will probably move
not quite shure yet..
Matt
, i went with the one you see in the pictures.- Thread starter
- #50
Replacement
The body was now able to sitt fine.
I removed spring hangers, placed the rear axle( uncut) with 9x17" 4,57 BS and 315/70-17 under it. Yes, bushwacker`s..........
Since the drivers side will stay "untuched", i was starting from there. I mad a hole lot of calculations about everything on paper, but decide better to control and check.
The tire is covered in a "street legal" way, anything else is reasond by law just not smart, especially if you look at bills written by policeman.
The other side, cool,but........
Just a pic from the side like what i see.
I moved the body up again start with making more space. Member out. "Bridge" in. The "bridge" is shortened, all the edges right and left are leftovers from the mounting situation before, nothing is bend. I kept it for orientation purpose. Everything what is not needed will be cut.
Matt
The body was now able to sitt fine.
I removed spring hangers, placed the rear axle( uncut) with 9x17" 4,57 BS and 315/70-17 under it. Yes, bushwacker`s..........
Since the drivers side will stay "untuched", i was starting from there. I mad a hole lot of calculations about everything on paper, but decide better to control and check.
The tire is covered in a "street legal" way, anything else is reasond by law just not smart, especially if you look at bills written by policeman.
The other side, cool,but........
Just a pic from the side
like what i see.
I moved the body up again start with making more space. Member out. "Bridge" in. The "bridge" is shortened, all the edges right and left are leftovers from the mounting situation before, nothing is bend. I kept it for orientation purpose. Everything what is not needed will be cut.
Matt
- Thread starter
- #53
Comparison
Just to compair the same spring mounted on different places. The heavy 80 has the panhard nearly parallel to the axle, in a empty
(only driveline and to Warn Winches in the trunk)
4Runner is the panhard liftet 16 cm on the right side.
Just to compair the same spring mounted on different places. The heavy 80 has the panhard nearly parallel to the axle, in a empty
(only driveline and to Warn Winches in the trunk
)4Runner is the panhard liftet 16 cm on the right side.
- Thread starter
- #55
Frontend
Coud find a place for all my front end axle parts. Got everything in the right positions. She will sitt very low and there is also room for bigger meats without doing a hackjob. Most satisfyed with the steering box, can use the mini, and even without changing the place. The engine will get another sump or just a smaller one(cut and weld).
Matt
Coud find a place for all my front end axle parts. Got everything in the right positions. She will sitt very low
and there is also room for bigger meats without doing a hackjob. Most satisfyed with the steering box, can use the mini, and even without changing the place. The engine will get another sump or just a smaller one(cut and weld).
Matt
more pics
- Thread starter
- #59
more
not enough will work on her in the next days, i have of from work the next 3 days, think will get some together
not enough
will work on her in the next days, i have of from work the next 3 days, think will get some together
