I've got the HEI blues... PLEASE HELP!

[Anvil]

Hey folks,

I could REALLY use some advice. I've been fighting this "no spark" problem for two weeks and am I my wits end.

The 74 1.5f was purring like a kitten and suddenly died. There was no 12 volts going to the dizzy. Below is what I have done in the last two weeks...

1) Ran a 14 gauge wire from starting battery to batt+ on dizzy. I have 12.58 volts and 11.78 while cranking at the dizzy. There is no tach hooked up.

2) Verified the rotor is turning

3) Replaced module. x2

4) Replaced Rotor. x2

5) Replaced Cap. x2

6) Replaced coil pack. x2

7) Replaced pickup coil.

8) Ran ground wire to dizzy, even though I had continuity from the dizzy body to the block.

9) Replaced entire dizzy with a new Napa dizzy after I exchanged the gear with a Toyota gear

Still no spark. This may be a silly question... is there something in the ignition switch preventing the dizzy from firing? I'm at a complete loss and could use some help. There's still no 12 volts coming from the switch. For the time being, it is taped off.

I'm at the end of my restoration and it's killing me not to be !

Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated!

Thank You!

 

[JohnnyC]

Did you try running straight from bat+ to dizzy to test

 

[Anvil]

Yes sir, that was the first thing I did. Today, I replaced that wire and still have no spark...

Did you try running straight from bat+ to dizzy to test

 

[JohnnyC]

Did you check the ignition fuse?

 

[JohnnyC]

Btw it's the second from bottom on your fuse block for a 1974... You don't just have a 74 engine right? It's a 74 truck?

 

[Anvil]

Johnny C, Thanks for the replies! Yes, it is a 11/74 truck.

I initially checked the fuses... they looked good. After reading your post, I checked them with a multimeter. I have continuity on all fuses.

I still do not have any voltage from the coil wire in the harness. I taped it off after running the 14 gauge wire from the battery to the dizzy.

Thanks again for your suggestions! Please keep them coming! I'm stumped.

Btw it's the second from bottom on your fuse block for a 1974... You don't just have a 74 engine right? It's a 74 truck?

 

[TOBASH]

Your starter circuit seems dead.

I recommend getting a pushbutton starter type circuit and wiring it in instead of the circuit running through the keyed starter switch.

To temporarily check you need to bypass wires to distributer with wires run straight from battery.

Also change all spark plug, distributer and coil wires.

FINALLY, and this is the BIG THING to check... ENGINE GROUND WIRES.

Cars behave this way when the engine grounds break. Use an engine starter cable to ground the engine to the frame and see if that is your problem.

Best of luck.

P.S. - Have not installed the doors yet due to a personal tragedy. Will let you know how it all goes.

TOBASH

 

[JohnnyC]

Tobash see post 2&3 still no good

I second what tobash asked GROUNDS !

Did you check and see if any other electrical a were not working?

 

[Anvil]

Tobash, it's good to hear from you! I'm glad the doors arrived safely!!!

I'm ignorant with push button starter... though I have been using a remote starter with the key on.

I ran a 14 gauge wire from the starting battery to the batt+ dizzy.

All ignition parts are new including plugs and wires.

I have cleaned and checked the battery grounds.

I'm not finding the engine ground wire ... Where is it located? I have plenty of 4 gauge wire and clamps, will this work? If so, where is the best place to install the new ground?

Thanks for the advice! I truly appreciate it!!!

Your starter circuit seems dead.

I recommend getting a pushbutton starter type circuit and wiring it in instead of the circuit running through the keyed starter switch.

To temporarily check you need to bypass wires to distributer with wires run straight from battery.

Also change all spark plug, distributer and coil wires.

FINALLY, and this is the BIG THING to check... ENGINE GROUND WIRES.

Cars behave this way when the engine grounds break. Use an engine starter cable to ground the engine to the frame and see if that is your problem.

Best of luck.

P.S. - Have not installed the doors yet due to a personal tragedy. Will let you know how it all goes.

TOBASH

 

[Anvil]

No sir, I've been so wrapped up in the hei, I've neglected to check anything else.:whoops:

Let me go see what else isn't working...

Thanks again for the help!!! I truly appreciate it!

Tobash see post 2&3 still no good

I second what tobash asked GROUNDS !

Did you check and see if any other electrical a were not working?

 

[Anvil]

Hey Guys, I think we're getting somewhere!

The lights and heater fan are not working! Ironically, this makes me happy! These are the only things I can think to check at the moment.

I have some quality 2 gauge welding cable to use as a ground. Where do you recommend running it to and from?

Thanks again!

 

[3jvj]

Battery to block. Block to frame.

 

[bsevans]

Hey Guys, I think we're getting somewhere!

The lights and heater fan are not working! Ironically, this makes me happy! These are the only things I can think to check at the moment.

I have some quality 2 gauge welding cable to use as a ground. Where do you recommend running it to and from?

Thanks again!

On my '78 there are two heavy gauge ground wires made from welding cables. One from the negative battery straight down to the frame and the other attaches to one of the started mounting bolts and then over to the frame. With everything you've done I'm inclined to think this has nothing to do with the HEI and all to do with the harness, either positive or negative wiring. You can check the power to the ignition switch and the power out of the ignition switch in both the start and run positions. And make sure the two ground cables have good contact at both ends. Take both of them off and clean them and the attach points with a wire brush and some spray battery terminal cleaner. Re-install and see if that makes a difference.
The photo show the gauge I used. The lower negative cable goes down to the frame and the one above it goes to my winch. The other photo shows part of the ground wire going to the frame from the lower starter mounting bolt. Not a good photo but all I had.

 

[TOBASH]

You need to ground the engine.

You need to either ground by attaching wire or jumper cable clamp ANYWHERE on the engine and other side of wire/clamp to ANYWHERE on the frame OR directly to the negative terminal on battery. And YES, the clamps attached to either end of 4 gauge wire is exactly what you need.

Engine needs to be grounded, and as motor and tranny mounts are rubber (insulators), they use braided flat cables. These cables flex and corrode until they fall apart. To test you need to temporarily ground engine just as you would ground steel that you were arc welding. To test to see if this is the problem, use a jumper cable as I describe above. If this fixes the problem, then go to NAPA or any auto parts place and get several braided flat grounding straps and re-ground your engine.

Remember, electricity goes in a circle from battery to coil to dizzy to spark plug to engine head to grounding strap to frame to wire leading back to battery. If you have no ground on the battery there is no way to complete the circuit and you will get what looks like a dead circuit, just as if you try to arc/MIG/TIG weld without a ground there will be no arc.

Remember, just get a single jumper cable and clamp one end to engine and other end to anywhere on the frame OR negative terminal of the battery, OR connect a thick wire to the engine block and attach other end to frame or negative battery terminal.

Best,

T

 

[Anvil]

Bsevens, Thanks for the advise and pictures! I believe you are correct. I think I was chasing my tail with the HEI.

I'll grab a test light and check the ignition switch power next...

I accidentally left the battery to dizzy hot wire on last night... will this burn up a coil?

Does it matter which battery grounds to the frame? Or do both batteries need to be grounded to the frame?

Thanks again Tobash! That's talk I can relate to!

I ran a 4 gauge welding cable from battery to frame and frame to block. I already had both batteries grounded to the block. I now have continuity from block to frame.

But still no spark or lights...

 

[Anvil]

You can check the power to the ignition switch and the power out of the ignition switch in both the start and run positions. And make sure the two ground cables have good contact at both ends.

Good call Bsevens!!! I have no power at the ignition switch. I assume my next step is to check fusible links... Any other suggestions? Anyone?

 

[Anvil]

After an afternoon of scrubbing, polishing and replacing a few connectors... I have 12.5 volts to the ignition switch on the black/red wire and blue/red wire.

The Hazard lights work but still no park/tail lights.

Can someone hold my hand and please tell me the next troubleshooting step? I've been searching threads for the last couple of hours, but haven't found the right thread yet.

Thanks again!!!

 

[69fj4069]

Bad ignition switch?

Do you have power to the key on side of your fuse block with the key on?

Hazards should work key on or off

 

[JohnnyC]

This may help ( Coolermans site ) linkie>>> http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/schematics/

 

[Anvil]

Today's update... I took off work today :whoops: to work on the 40 and complete this task... I replaced a couple of wires and connectors, cleaned fuse box receptacles, and cleaned grounds.

Good news...I now have 12 volts at the black/yellow coil wire again. I now have parking/tail lights again. I have power at the ignition switch and it seems fine, but I ordered a new one to be on the safe side. I have power going to and from all the fuses.

Bad news... still no spark!

What am i missing? Any suggestions would be much appreciated!!!

Thanks!