1982 FJ60 - Project Clifford

[Sperl]

Pulled the smog pump (it was left in during PO's desmog work) and installed an idler pulley from TLC Performance. Consider me another satisfied customer - it dropped right in with no drama. I de-gunked a little bit while I was in there and the driveway deposits definitely confirmed that the engine bay needs a thorough cleaning.

 

[Sperl]

Finished up the day with some carburetor surgery. After confirming that the new non-US OEM carb shipped with high altitude jets in the storage spot (the jet access plugs, very clever), and after a bunch of research and some consultation...I decided to swap them in. I live at 6,000 feet and virtually any driving or adventure will take me higher, so I'm going for it. The installed jets were 138/200, I swapped in the 132/180 alternates.

If it turns out to be a poor choice...at least now I'm comfortable with how to swap carb jets. I'm approaching this entire project as a learning and experimentation process, so I'm trying not to agonize over any choice and just keep making progress.

 

[Sperl]

A little more surgery to move the A/C idle-up diaphragm from the old carb to the new. This was straightforward - the non-US carb has identical linkages and mounting points, so it was a simple thing to remove from one and install on the other.

That said...this step may be for nothing. My A/C idle-up solenoid is gone, and it seems a new one inexplicably costs $400?

I read that any old Toyota vacuum solenoid will do the job, so for now my freshly transplanted diaphragm will just hang out until I can make a pick-and-pull trip or otherwise find a used one (haven't come across one after a cursory search online). Anybody got one collecting dust in a parts box...?

 

[Spike Strip]

General rule of thumb is one-size smaller Jet for each 2,000 ft of elevation gain. The 1.32 primary and 1.80 are probably a good place to start if you're only going to see 6K ft and above.

No idea what you're looking at for an Idle-up Solenoid that's $400, but that's crazy. Any VSV that's normally closed will work - you only want to apply vacuum to the Idle up dashpot when A/C is activated, and the signal to switch the VSV on or off will be controlled by the A/C amplifier.

There are many that will will work - Usually the difference is just the connector style (always two-pin) and if it has a bracket or not.

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Buy NewYall Vacuum Switch Switching Valve VSV for Lexus Toyota | for 95-05 Avalon, 92-06 Camry, 01-07 Highlander, 98-05 Sienna, 99-08 Solara, 92-03 ES300, 04-06 ES330/RX330, 99-03 RX300: Vacuum Valves - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Pretty sure this is the right connector, but you'll have to verify

AMAZON

 

[Sperl]

General rule of thumb is one-size smaller Jet for each 2,000 ft of elevation gain. The 1.32 primary and 1.80 are probably a good place to start if you're only going to see 6K ft and above.

No idea what you're looking at for an Idle-up Solenoid that's $400, but that's crazy. Any VSV that's normally closed will work - you only want to apply vacuum to the Idle up dashpot when A/C is activated, and the signal to switch the VSV on or off will be controlled by the A/C amplifier.

There are many that will will work - Usually the difference is just the connector style (always two-pin) and if it has a bracket or not.

Amazon.com: NewYall Vacuum Switch Switching Valve VSV for Lexus Toyota | for 95-05 Avalon, 92-06 Camry, 01-07 Highlander, 98-05 Sienna, 99-08 Solara, 92-03 ES300, 04-06 ES330/RX330, 99-03 RX300 : Automotive

Buy NewYall Vacuum Switch Switching Valve VSV for Lexus Toyota | for 95-05 Avalon, 92-06 Camry, 01-07 Highlander, 98-05 Sienna, 99-08 Solara, 92-03 ES300, 04-06 ES330/RX330, 99-03 RX300: Vacuum Valves - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Pretty sure this is the right connector, but you'll have to verify

AMAZON

Excellent, thanks! I'll happily save $400 on this project. Connector looks different but that's an easy swap.

Context: I found the part number here, then choked on my sandwich when I saw this...

 

[Spike Strip]

The connector is different. The Valve is for a more modern Toyota but function is the same. The one you've pictured above (32280) is for a 80s Camry. FWIW, that website is the worst place to shop of online Toyo parts.

The linked a pigtail connector above -- you can just add a 2-pin 6.3mm old style connector to it and make an adapter so you don't have to bugger the stock wiring harness and save the next guy from cursing you

2 Pin Connector 6.3mm

 

[Sperl]

The connector is different. The Valve is for a more modern Toyota but function is the same. The one you've pictured above (32280) is for a 80s Camry. FWIW, that website is the worst place to shop of online Toyo parts.

The linked a pigtail connector above -- you can just add a 2-pin 6.3mm old style connector to it and make an adapter so you don't have to bugger the stock wiring harness and save the next guy from cursing you

2 Pin Connector 6.3mm

Yeah I haven't actually bought anything direct from Toyota through dealers, but it's almost always the first google result for "toyota + part number" so that was my starting reference point.

Good advice on the connectors and buggered wiring harness. I'm more scratching my head than cursing the last guy, but I'll try to keep my karma in balance and not hose the next guy...

 

[Spike Strip]

Since I live at more or less sea-level, I'm curious, do you even need A/C at your elevation?

 

[Sperl]

Since I live at more or less sea-level, I'm curious, do you even need A/C at your elevation?

Rarely, though it's been a hot summer. The A/C in my truck runs very cold, which is nice. PO was an HVAC tech and said he sorted that first thing when he bought it. Swapping the carb bits was easy because they were on hand and the carb was on the bench vs. on the vehicle. Sorting the rest of this (valve, connectors, etc.) will probably fall down the to-do list a bit. I really do appreciate the input though!

 

[Sperl]

The waiting-on-parts task list continues, knocked out a few more things today. Cleaned up the air cleaner assembly and coolant reservoir. The reservoir had a lot of gunk on and in it; a full system flush is definitely on the list.

 

[Sperl]

I installed the new/replacement choke cable. I had to enlarge the hole a bit and re-flatten the bottom for an anti-rotation notch, which I thought was odd. I'm guessing the cable (from PO's parts box) is just aftermarket, but it occurred to me afterwards that maybe a PO switched the dimmer switch into the original choke cable mount point for some reason. Which is where on other folks' FJ60s? There was a simple switch where I put the choke cable when I bought it, I'm pretty sure at one point it controlled the accessory lights that were on the bumper.

 

[Sperl]

I'm cleaning up vacuum lines as part of my desmog re-set. Two questions for the hive mind:

1. Confirm that this line (currently plugged with a bolt, woof), connected to outer vent control valve on the charcoal canister, should be plugged? Per the desmog pdf and emissions manual this connects to the carb to collect vapor from float chamber when ignition is off. My non-US carb doesn't have that connection so...cap the line? Or maybe it needs atmosphere?

2. Confirm the setup below from desmog manual? If I'm reading this correctly this means (x) and (z) are both going to distributor cap vent, but maybe that's the point. To clarify how the VCV works - under vacuum to (s) via gas filter on manifold, are (x) and (z) both able to vent to air cleaner via (y)?

Thanks, gang!

 

[Spike Strip]

Post a pic of your Distributor and where the hoses to the cap go (if they're there).

 

[Sperl]

Post a pic of your Distributor and where the hoses to the cap go (if they're there).

View attachment 4205866

View attachment 4205872

Right now the distributor cap hoses aren't there because I'm swapping them out.
This diagram matches the desmog pdf though - thanks!

I'm looking at the same diagram for EVAP system. Far left hose from float chamber to outer vent control valve is my question. I have no float chamber connection so...cap it or open to atmosphere?

 

[Spike Strip]

Leave it capped

 

[Sperl]

My shifter has lots of play in it so I picked up a new shifter seat and inner boot. There are several threads about this and good advice floating around to replace inner boot as well while in there. The old seat was not in terrible shape but is definitely worn. What IS in terrible shape are the retaining pins - badly worn and loose on both sides, and the shifter retainer just kind of jiggles around in there.

Some additional forum reading led me to SOR's shift pin repair kit, so that's on the way. Bummer to have to open it back up again, but I need to anyway because once I got distracted by the pins...I forgot to install the inner boot.

I think my shifter tip looks okay - some wear but nothing crazy. Even with the worn pins the new shifter seat made a big difference and eliminated a lot of play in the shift pattern. Here's hoping new pins will really tighten it up.

 

[Sperl]

The old carb is off. There was lots of gunk all over carb, spacers, manifold, etc. and the nuts holding on the carb were quite loose (like almost only finger-tight) so it seems this thing was just leaking fuel all over everything.

The manifold cleaned up nicely and the mounting surface looks good - flat, only a couple of shallow scratches, no crazy gouges.

Here's a question for the crowd: what's missing in the gap below? I test-fit the carb insulator and have a small (maybe 1/2") gap between the threaded boss on the intake manifold and the insulator plate mounting hole. The gap is similar at both the front and rear mounting points. I studied the emissions manual schematics and some other folks' engine bay pictures and best I can tell there was once a bracket there holding vacuum lines?

 

[Sperl]

Big push today. Replaced fuel filter, engine bay fuel lines, vacuum lines, got the de-smog re-do to about 85% (waiting on a couple of things to finish this up), re-mounted driver-side VCV bracket, reinstalled reservoir and flushed coolant, and...installed the new carb. It took a few cranks to get the new fuel filter and lines primed and then it fired right up. Very satisfying.

I did a quickie driveway tune, installed the air cleaner assembly and troubleshot the oil pressure sender (corroded connections, it came right back to life after a cleanup). Then a test drive to congratulate myself. Lot's more on the project list, but it feels great to have a running truck again.

 

[Sperl]

I pulled the shifter (again) and installed the SOR shifter dowel pin repair kit. It makes a huge difference, I cannot recommend this $20 + 30 minute investment enough. Remove outer boot and flange, remove shifter, stuff in a rag to keep bits out, drill out the old pins (a bit of a pain), mount the threaded replacement dowel pins, reinstall shifter and outer boot. The only picture I took was of the removed pins - you can see how worn they were. Shifting is now crisp and definitive.

I also installed what is probably my favorite accessory so far. I found this steering wheel cover on eBay and the packaging it arrived in indicates it is period-correct, straight out of a truck stop circa 1986.

 

[Sperl]

My truck, I suspect, had a serious aftermarket bumper on it at some point in its life. The original frame horn/bumper mounts were missing. It came with a stock bumper on it, but it was mounted directly to the frame rails with one bolt on each side through extra holes drilled into the bottom of the bumper. Here's how it arrived:

Some internet sleuthing brought me to the @TRAIL TAILOR bumper mounts and I ordered myself a pair of 60 series mounts. I got them cleaned up, primed, and painted. These are a great product, by the way - super burly, geometry is spot on, etc. I had to drill out two leftover rivets in the frame rail from the original horns, but no drilling, grinding, welding, etc. of the mounts was required.

I mounted them up, grabbed the bumper and...something was off. Some googling and...I discovered that a) 60 and 62 series front bumpers are apparently not identical and b) I'm pretty sure my bumper is from a 62.

So...the bumper is currently mounted by its top mounting points only while I mull over next steps. I might just figure out a spacer geometry correction solution rather than start over with the 62 series mounts or try to track down a 60 series bumper. The tow hook (another treasure from PO's parts box) geometry is also out of whack - it doesn't fit correctly in the bumper slot when mounted to both frame holes, so it's temporarily mounted to one (rear hook hole to front frame hole) until I sort out the geometry. Don't worry, I shan't be using it as a recovery point until it's sorted.