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Dazed said:
What about getting the pump rebuilt, that part is checked off the list. Then redo the timing from total scratch, by pulling the timing cover and redoing all of the gears and lining up the letters? May take less time and you know it's right.

I gave up on keeping track of the snowball and jsut decided to do it right. I plan on driving my truck for a very very long time.
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Well it was timed that way all the letters and stuff where lined up when I assembled it. I'm getting the pump back and am going to try and spill time it before spending $1500 possibly needlessly if its as something as simple at timing then good. If the pump needs to be rebuilt and its not timing then fine I get it rebuilt with a clear concessions. I did not need to remove anything from the front of the engine to get the pump off, I hope putting it back in is the same.
 
Retarded pump timing can't spit fuel out the exhaust. If it was that retarded you'd have a mission trying to get it started and it'd be blowing grey/white at idle from all cylinders. Not just one.
 
Dougal said:
Retarded pump timing can't spit fuel out the exhaust. If it was that retarded you'd have a mission trying to get it started and it'd be blowing grey/white at idle from all cylinders. Not just one.
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Here is a recording pre rebuild of what it is doing. Its doing the same thing now only at a lower RPM I would guess about 1300-1500RPM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HnDHDC4VhZI

Idle is totally clean.
 
Wheelingnoob said:
Here is a recording pre rebuild of what it is doing. Its doing the same thing now only at a lower RPM I would guess about 1300-1500RPM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HnDHDC4VhZI

Idle is totally clean.
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It's random enough that if it were me, I'd keep going, install it and then see if it gets better or worse with more hours on the engine.
If it gets better then brilliant, if it gets worse the cause should become more obvious.

Because I'd guarantee that for some unforseen circumstance I'd have the engine back out within a few weeks anyway. I can get my 4BD1T out and on the floor within 3 hours of driving it into a shed.
 
Got the pump back this morning and they also gave me a good tutorial on spill timing the pump. Will get it back on tonight and try it out.
 
So got the pump back on and spill timed (really cool when you have a clue how to do it). The timing when I started was at 6-7 deg so I got it set to 13 deg spec as per the manual. Not sure if thats enough to cause the issue I had but it was not right at any rate. Did not have enough time to get it all back together so the test run is tomorrow night. Fingers crossed! Here is a picture of the factory timing marks. Sorry hard to see the one on the black metal. Anyways when I started they where lined up and now they are 3/16th off from each other (spill timed at 13deg).

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Good to hear that you are getting things worked out Jeremy. Keep on plugging along. Think that my engine install is going to be put on hold for awhile. Gonna get the axles rebuilt and the SOA conversion done before going any further. That should help with placement and drive shaft angles. Can't wait till the day I can start mine up and hear it run for the first time.
 
bluehawk said:
Good to hear that you are getting things worked out Jeremy. Keep on plugging along. Think that my engine install is going to be put on hold for awhile. Gonna get the axles rebuilt and the SOA conversion done before going any further. That should help with placement and drive shaft angles. Can't wait till the day I can start mine up and hear it run for the first time.
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Thanks, well find out tonight if mine gets put on hold too. Having your axles and everything in the engine bay is a really good idea when fitting an engine swap. The SOA should give you lots of room.
 
Well still have an issue. The smoke point seems to move up the longer I run it so at this point Im going to continue forward with the swap and hope driving makes it better when its done. If not ill reassess.
 
Hi Jeremy,

Hey, I had the same problem with my first engine. Chased it around for a while and narrowed it down to the pump after getting new injectors. I ended up sending it off to Redding fuel injection in Cali for rebuild and it ran perfectly when I reinstalled the pump. Mine ran perfect at idle and then started going crappy at around 1400-1500. Redding is one of the most reasonable shops out there and they've been doing it a long time. I think they charged me about $550 for the rebuild as I recall. Dazed had his done there and I know of a few other guys that have as well. I know it's an unplanned expense, but you've put this much amazing work into this engine, I would hate to see you have to deal with this pump issue down the road once it is in the truck. I would rather pull my engine out than try to swap pumps in the vehicle. It is a big pain in the butt!

Just hoping to save you some heartache later,

Don
 
Thanks Don,

I remember you saying you had the same problem. How long was the turn around time from Redding? That seems to be there one failing.

I need to give this all some more thought. If I had the room in my budget I would not even be thinking about it. Im still hopeful i can get the engine in next month so if I send the pump out i need a fairly quick turnaround. I absolutely do not want to pull the engine again after I get the swap done.
 
If I recall I had it back in less than two weeks, but that was over two years ago. I would call them and see if they can maybe expedite it for you.

Don
 
longbow said:
If I recall I had it back in less than two weeks, but that was over two years ago. I would call them and see if they can maybe expedite it for you. Don
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Thanks Don!

Ill call them before I send it off. I did run the engine today and no smoking at all. So one thing that changed is I made sure to bleed the air out totally before running it. I also had an issue with my fuel pick up floating to the top of the jerry can and sucking air in the past runs. Now today i put a 3/4" nut on it and no more air getting sucked in. Seems to run as good as can be, idle is buttery smooth, better than my civic 4cyl. Very happy about that, noticeable difference from pre rod balancing.

After that I spent the rest of the day making a cable connection at the throttle for the kick down cable.

What I did for the kick down was use the arm on the bottom of the throttle shaft (best way i can describe it). I then took some scrap 1/8th I had laying around and made a second arm that i would weld to the stock one. I drilled the holes for the stock connections and then measured my arm sweep. I know that the trans needs to see 1.47" of sweep. So I made the arm long enough to account for that. Then I took another pice of 1/8" and made a top part of the cable attachment. Then I drilled the hole through both for the cable end.

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Throttle closed.

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Throttle open.

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Still need to make the base cable securing bracket. Plan to mount that to the back of the pump.

I plan to make the same kind of mount for the cruise control cable but on the upper arm.
 
So possible foaming in the tank when running at higher rpm?
If so, great catch. You've saved some $$.

Regarding longbows comment of pulling the engine to pull a pump. Definitely. Plan everything in your swap around pulling the engine with the least hassle. Wiring, plumbing etc should all be unplug and throw aside.
 
Dougal said:
So possible foaming in the tank when running at higher rpm? If so, great catch. You've saved some $$. Regarding longbows comment of pulling the engine to pull a pump. Definitely. Plan everything in your swap around pulling the engine with the least hassle. Wiring, plumbing etc should all be unplug and throw aside.
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Well it was actually sucking air at certain points at high rpm. I did not know till i used a clear line from the tank to pump. Im sure it was getting foamy in the pump and filter.

The engine will be swapped in with ease of removal in mind, all wires will unplug in one area, lines will be easy to access and exhaust will have V band clamps. Having done engine swaps before i know how important that is.
 
That is great news Jereme about the pump. So Big difference for a balance job on the rods and pistons? Sounds like an easy thing to do when engine is dissassembled. What kind of scale did you use and where did you remove material? To what rpm did you get your crank balanced to?
 
gerg said:
That is great news Jereme about the pump. So Big difference for a balance job on the rods and pistons? Sounds like an easy thing to do when engine is dissassembled. What kind of scale did you use and where did you remove material? To what rpm did you get your crank balanced to?
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I actually did not do the balancing, I had a shop in PK do it. They first balance the small end to get them match then the balance them overall via the big end cap. If you search on YouTube there are a few videos on there. My crank was not balanced, quite a few others have had them checked and they where all very close and not worth the cost to get them done. The rods in my case where 35grams off lightest the heaviest so there was quite a big gain in balance there.

Im still quite surprised how smooth and quiet this engine is compared to its Cummins brother. It really is not very loud, no loud crack that the cummins seems to have.
 
gerg said:
That is quite a crap load out. What was the price tag on getting them done? Just found this cool video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=QLpiF0E0EJU
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Yeah it was a lot, the guy doing it was surprised. It was one light one that made it such a large gap it was 10 grams less than the rest. I actually need to try a find that receipt because I may have the overall spread wrong. Had a lot of stuff done since then and a lot rattling around in my head.

That video is exactly what was done to mine, took him about 1 hour and cost me $120.
 
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