Build Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build
- Thread starter Wheelingnoob
- Start date
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was your fuel supply set up the same for both diesel and diesel purge?
are you certain it is not sucking in air before the pump?
are you certain it is not sucking in air before the pump?
- Thread starter
- #423
Its not a tooth out made sure of that when I put it together. Ill need to read up on spill timing it. Basically take off the valve on the top of the pump on #1 and turn the crank and see when it pushes fuel up.
No differences in the fuel setup's from diesel to purge. I did later change over to a clear fuel line to make sure no air was getting drawn in. None that I could see but I was only running it for 1min at a time. Im really worried about washing the cylinders with fuel when its doing the miss. Its almost straight diesel vapor coming out the exhaust. My turbine outlet is already coasted in a film of diesel.
May be a cylinder isnt firing due to low compression? When I rebuilt one of my diesels I could hardly get it to start and it needed just a whiff of ether, and yes I know that stuff is evil. When it did start it was exactly like yours,belching diesel/oil smoke, so I just took it down the road and loaded it up and after a minute of loading it seated up and the smoke completely cleared up. It was smoking like a coal train it was so bad. Left an semi opaque trail behind the truck.
After checking the timing, if you do start it up again, you might want to pre heat the intake manifold really hot with a heat gun to help with ignition if it is a problem cylinder, heck you could stick that heat gun right into the air intake as well. Might make the difference. Did you use the glow plugs?
Think you could take the pump off and get it tested by those guys in port kells? Would be lots easier now rather than later like you said.
After checking the timing, if you do start it up again, you might want to pre heat the intake manifold really hot with a heat gun to help with ignition if it is a problem cylinder, heck you could stick that heat gun right into the air intake as well. Might make the difference. Did you use the glow plugs?
Think you could take the pump off and get it tested by those guys in port kells? Would be lots easier now rather than later like you said.
- Thread starter
- #426
I did not use glow plugs, fired right up once the air was out of the lines. It idles totally clean when cold or hot. Its at steady raised RPM when it starts coughing and then pumping white smoke. Its pure diesel vapor since it instantly burnes your eyes and chokes you out. Its the same thing it did pre rebuild if you look back at the first page there is a video, its doing the same thing.
Its a frustrating bump in the road but one way or another it will be fixed.
Its a frustrating bump in the road but one way or another it will be fixed.
That is really weird man. Would suck to pull the pump. I dont know if air entraining would actually do that to it. When ever ive had air in mine its the idle that suffers the most. High rpms werent dramatically affected like yours is. Its like the rack is going wide open on one cylinder or something. Can you run it without the exhaust manifold? It might tell you which cylinder is wonky. Just a thought.
Run again from cold and feel with yr hand which pipe is running cool or use infra red thermometer on pipes... Maybe you'll find which cylinder is bad at least... Would it be possible for whatever caused initial white smoke before rebuild to be still in play, maybe the pump itself as suggested.....
- Thread starter
- #430
Its one cylinder cylinder for sure causing it. When it revs up its a distinctive puff on one exhaust pulse. I checked with a inferred thermometer yesterday but i think by the time i did it the manifold had heat soaked. Its also idling fine so that runner would get hot as it idled. I will unbolt the manifold and check witch cylinder is causing the issues. I have a feeling it maybe #1 and i can only guess the cause is a failed spill test attempt at some point possibly. In that event the pump is coming off anyways to get reset up. Hopefully they do not try and charge me for a full rebuild at the same time, I'm sure they will.
- Thread starter
- #433
At idle the miss seems to follow the cracked injector (as it should). But ill pay more attention next time. I cant see doing it at any kind of RPM it would indeed make a hell of a mess. Ill disconnect the exhaust manifold tomorrow night and see if I can pin point the cylinder. Then ill move the injector to a different hole and see if it follows. I can't see it being a dead injector they all have new nozzles and had there crack pressure set up twice by two different shops. I would think getting a different used pump could have its own issues. Better the enemy you know then the unknown....
Rebuilds locally are a bit unknown, been told $1200 to $1600 plus any needed parts. Going to call a few others tomorrow as that sounds crazy to me. I cant see it taking two full days of labour at $100 per hour for a pro to rebuild/recalibrate it.
Rebuilds locally are a bit unknown, been told $1200 to $1600 plus any needed parts. Going to call a few others tomorrow as that sounds crazy to me. I cant see it taking two full days of labour at $100 per hour for a pro to rebuild/recalibrate it.
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Mine was $1000 to rebuild including the cost of new lifters. Was done by Redding fuel injection in California.
- Thread starter
- #435
How fast was the turn around? I have heard from other that they are very slow and need constant provoking to get them done.
That would be accurate. But they seem to have done good work.
- Thread starter
- #438
Thanks, I'll call them.
Yeah I am too, I will still call them and see. This pump is very basic and nothing like the Pandora's box of the 1HZ/HD pumps.
I called NW fuel injection in Surrey this morning and the guy was really good on the phone with a few checks I can make to narrow down the cause. he said most likely one of the barrels had turned due to a loose/broken locking pin. He said he has seen that on a few of them. They do all the pump rebuilds for a few fleets still running this engine and 2T and said they have rebuilt hundreds of them over the years. Most usually just need to be cleaned up but some have had the same issue as mine. Said a rebuild would be anywhere from $1100-1500 depending on the parts needed.
He did say to take off the pump side cover and take a look, has had a few with broken return springs on the plungers. Said either way it needs to be rebuilt if that's the case.
So until funds allow this swap is now shelved. I'm still getting the adapter made so that is ready to go, I can also do all the test stand fitting of the trans and converter in the down time. Probably will not have funds to get the pump rebuilt till after the holidays unless I pull my engine out of the truck now and sell it.
- Thread starter
- #439
Forgot to upload the first start video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T97Nx0tBql8&feature=em-upload_owner
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T97Nx0tBql8&feature=em-upload_owner
Tell me about it.
I called him this morning as well, basically got the sense that he didn't want to touch it because it's out of stock what I want to do.
May call raj here to see what he thinks.