Another possible tell-tale would be paint marks on the top of the head bolts. If they have paint marks then they have been removed at some time, presumably to replace the head gasket. Of course the valve cover would need to be removed to see this.
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instead of taking the tranny down to see the back of the engine, could you get a mirror back there to see it?
But isn't it possible that the HG would only leak internally, and you would not see anything on the exterior? I have grey goop on my head so I guess I'm on the factory HG. I don't really want to do it. That sounds like it sucks. And I'm really a "while your in there" kinda guy to an extreme. Who knows where I'll end up once I get the head off. Thanks for all the info!