O rings stacked, look in the plumbing section at the local hardware store.
I don't recall which two I spliced, trial and error. Throw out the Ironman wire harness you don't need it.
Ironman Classic bumper, XRC Gen3 Winch & Baja Designs LP6 Install (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter nw_fj62
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
O rings stacked, look in the plumbing section at the local hardware store.
I don't recall which two I spliced, trial and error. Throw out the Ironman wire harness you don't need it.
- Thread starter
- #22
I spent the mid-week trimming the OE bumper... and scribing... and trimming. Pretty well installed by Friday.
Sunday, my friend came back and we focused on the Smittybilt XR3 winch install. We discussed options and decided to install controller center front on bumper for full access to winch and access power port....
With exposed screw heads under the controller, we devised a custom "table leg" approach with longer screws, aluminum sleeve, silicon washer, and a flat washer. It is very solid and allows the cables to route cleanly to through the grill.
The grill just sitting in this picture (not clipped in) - but shows the relationships. I cut some access at bottom of grill - so the grill could come off without the winch cables being disconnected.
By Sunday late afternoon - winch installed, line spooled on, grill resting in place for reference. Like Tex68, I like this new winch. The controller is user friendly, the oversized engage handle is great, I like the LED light on the frame (didn't care for the novelty light up-front - sprayed that logo matte black and didn't connect that wire)...
I drilled holes for LP6 further back toward grill (and a touch more outbound) - the intent is protection for the lights. Hope to install next week.
Sunday, my friend came back and we focused on the Smittybilt XR3 winch install. We discussed options and decided to install controller center front on bumper for full access to winch and access power port....
With exposed screw heads under the controller, we devised a custom "table leg" approach with longer screws, aluminum sleeve, silicon washer, and a flat washer. It is very solid and allows the cables to route cleanly to through the grill.
The grill just sitting in this picture (not clipped in) - but shows the relationships. I cut some access at bottom of grill - so the grill could come off without the winch cables being disconnected.
By Sunday late afternoon - winch installed, line spooled on, grill resting in place for reference. Like Tex68, I like this new winch. The controller is user friendly, the oversized engage handle is great, I like the LED light on the frame (didn't care for the novelty light up-front - sprayed that logo matte black and didn't connect that wire)...
I drilled holes for LP6 further back toward grill (and a touch more outbound) - the intent is protection for the lights. Hope to install next week.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #23
I switched over the BD LP6 to clear and mounted the front of the harness and installed the lights (with theft deterrent screws).
I decided to mount the LP6 a bit further back - a touch outboard from the IM factory mount point. My goal was to get a bit more protection for the lights from the hoops of the bumper and be well clear from the winch access points....
Remember there is ridge underneath - so it forces you further in or out... I dry fit the lights - be sure to give yourself room to tighten the side bolts between the brackets and light body...
Then it was time to take it out and see how it's coming together.... I thought this was a fun image - some other guy always has bigger tires and more utility... it's all about the balance you're trying to strike. Snow in the Cascades is starting to give way to spring / summer...
And on a bit more pot-holed shake test road...
I decided to mount the LP6 a bit further back - a touch outboard from the IM factory mount point. My goal was to get a bit more protection for the lights from the hoops of the bumper and be well clear from the winch access points....
Remember there is ridge underneath - so it forces you further in or out... I dry fit the lights - be sure to give yourself room to tighten the side bolts between the brackets and light body...
Then it was time to take it out and see how it's coming together.... I thought this was a fun image - some other guy always has bigger tires and more utility... it's all about the balance you're trying to strike. Snow in the Cascades is starting to give way to spring / summer...
And on a bit more pot-holed shake test road...
- Thread starter
- #24
So the Baja Design LP6 lights were mounted but not yet wired up. My friend and I tackled it Thursday.
Took off the lower trim, door seal, kick plate left of dead pedal (a lot of electrical in there) to pull in the BD toggle switch end through firewall. I wanted to use one of the OE switch locations, but the Baja Designs toggle is large. I spent hour+ working to trim the switch housing so I could make it work horizonally, but wasn't making significant progress (and a big mess).
so I drilled a 1/2 inch hole next to the switch panel and it looks clean... Buttoned up all the trim (amidst rain and thunder in seattle)... Toggle goes left to high, right to low (didn't want the amber running light option)..
So now, I'll call the project 92% complete. (Just plan to put some engine bay trim back, wire the bumper fog lights, and the under-bumper skid plate protection).
Took off the lower trim, door seal, kick plate left of dead pedal (a lot of electrical in there) to pull in the BD toggle switch end through firewall. I wanted to use one of the OE switch locations, but the Baja Designs toggle is large. I spent hour+ working to trim the switch housing so I could make it work horizonally, but wasn't making significant progress (and a big mess).
so I drilled a 1/2 inch hole next to the switch panel and it looks clean... Buttoned up all the trim (amidst rain and thunder in seattle)... Toggle goes left to high, right to low (didn't want the amber running light option)..
So now, I'll call the project 92% complete. (Just plan to put some engine bay trim back, wire the bumper fog lights, and the under-bumper skid plate protection).
My bumper arrived at a friends loading dock. I have to go and pick it up when I am back in town. Would the classic bumper fit in the rear area with the second row folded down?
Ok, thanks for the confirmation. I have to bring a trailer then.
N O...........
way over packed.....my installer bud said he spent 2 hrs unpacking it
I took my 14' ATV trailer & the guys loaded it with a fork lift..carefully
No winch.....but did add 22" three row light bar......
Last edited:
It didn't take me two hours to unpack it but I am willing to bet that I spent a solid 30 minutes focused solely on unwrapping it and discarding the packaging material. They do an excellent job of ensuring that the bumper and the other contents will arrive unharmed and without damage of any kind. I wish more companies would give that level of attention to detail when it comes to securely packaging their products.
Iron Man in my opinion is GTG..
I missed the $999 sale by a week early though......
I missed the $999 sale by a week early though......
Iron Man in my opinion is GTG..
I missed the $999 sale by a week early though......
Thats super frustrating!
- Thread starter
- #32
I did pickup up my bumper from a trucking depot and fit it inside fully packed (but off the pallet). with passenger seat forward and all other elements down it will fit - it will be easier with packaging removed or minimized. The install can be a bit "make it up as you go" as the instructions aren't helpful. Working around the GX power steering lines and trimming the OE bumper took a lot of custom time (for me).
Good to know that it would fit, I bet it was an extremely tight fit too!?
Yea, the power steering lines are in the worst possible spot when it comes to clearing the winch mount brackets. I used fuel line hose that I split and then wrapped the lines to insulate them from rubbing against the bracket and the body metal. Some others have recessed/notched the body metal to create more room as another option. Without a proper GX460 stencil for trimming the plastic every single one of these installs will look different. I am not completely satisfied with mine but it works and it is uniform and doesn't look butchered lol. I don't think that I would volunteer to do another haha.
- Thread starter
- #35
Here is the how the side profile cuts worked out on my install... (not sure it's perfect - but functional)
Thanks for the profile picture nw-fj62. I am about to install mine as well. What would happen if I leave the cuts a little longer/lower.
- Thread starter
- #37
If your time allows call Chris Miller at Ironman USA - he suggested a 1inch gap to allow flex between bumper and body trim. I just returned from a first shakedown trip - 300-400 off-pavement miles - and I think this is about right for my use...
Last edited:
Leaving a gap while not as aesthetically pleasing does make sense for allowing bumper to body flex. Mine still touches up front and you can hear it flexing against the bumper at times and it is also the reason for the slight gap between where the metal fender and plastic fender meet behind the head lights. Like I have said before, each one of our vehicles will look different because of how we tackle cutting/trimming since there isn't a standard stencil for the 460.
r2m
Richard
Take a look at my solution: Builds - R2M 2013 GX460 Overland Build
Start on post #117
I just did this yesterday and it looks so much better AND provides a little cushion if the bumper flexes upward.
I like your solution r2m. Since I do not do much offroad, yet, I plan to cut it with a smaller gap for aesthetics. I could go back and make the gap larger once I determine it is needed.
