That’s my conclusion as well. But that change would cost around $800 here. And I’m not spending that much on the suspension anymore. I rather live with it as-is
Iron Man Pro Foam Review
- Thread starter wngrog
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- Thread starter
- #345
You can back off the preload of your front torsion bars for free.
the 866 will be 1.5” lower than the green monsters Iron Man sends with the kits.
Add springs. Lower front to taste.
the 866 will be 1.5” lower than the green monsters Iron Man sends with the kits.
Add springs. Lower front to taste.
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
You can back off the pre load, but the spring rate will still be too high. I do see OEM TBs pop up here in the classifieds for pretty cheap. I just gave away my set on here a month ago when I installed the Ironman ones to account for the extra weight of my bumper, winch, sliders, and second battery. I had the opposite problem. I could crank the stock TBs to get the correct pre load so my height was correct, but I couldn't increase the spring rate of the stock TBs and I had lots of body roll as a result.
- I think the preload doesn't affect the spring rate, only the height (and so the droop). So it would be too heavy for my setup even if I installed a different rear spring.
- I've also thought about putting some ballast in the back
But that wouldn't solve the front.
- The problem in europe is that 98% of LC's are AHC from factory, so there are not a lot running around with non-AHC TB's. Also the diesels have different length TB's than petrol, so that adds to the hard to source them second hand here problem.
- I've also thought about putting some ballast in the back
But that wouldn't solve the front.- The problem in europe is that 98% of LC's are AHC from factory, so there are not a lot running around with non-AHC TB's. Also the diesels have different length TB's than petrol, so that adds to the hard to source them second hand here problem.
serenity
SILVER Star
- I think the preload doesn't affect the spring rate, only the height (and so the droop). So it would be too heavy for my setup even if I installed a different rear spring.
- I've also thought about putting some ballast in the back
- The problem in europe is that 98% of LC's are AHC from factory, so there are not a lot running around with non-AHC TB's. Also the diesels have different length TB's than petrol, so that adds to the hard to source them second hand here problem.
Have you tried indexing the factory TBs? I did this with great success when I had my 100, had 2” lift with a smooth ride as I only had an alloy bullbar.
The AHC TBs?
serenity
SILVER Star
No sorry, just the standard TBs
Maybe a dumb question here but I dont have a lot of experience with shocks. A lot of talk about running in hot conditions and how well the shocks will perform in hot conditions. Im in Maine and it can get pretty cold. I like what people are saying about these oil foam shocks but are they stiff when temperatures are cold compared to gas shocks? I would guess that gas shocks dont particulary care whether it is below 0 degrees or 100 degrees out. Can anyone weigh-in here @CMiller ? TIA.
- Thread starter
- #352
Your shocks generate heat when they work. No downside.
I can't tell a difference between them in cold vs. hot, although I've only tested them between 25 - 100 F till now.
I don't see the suspension kit on Cruiserparts website. Can you provide a link?
Hi all, can anyone post a picture of the thread rod protruding from the nut on the front upper mount? I see this shocks have the same open and closed length as the OEM one and as most aftermarket for the front of the LC100, i am thinking of adding a 15/20mm spacer bellow the lower washer to extend the drop by 20mm at the shock, but i need to be able to thread the nut in with a 15 or 20mm spacer.....not sure if there is enough thread for that. Thanks
The LCA limits the max drop, not the shocks length IMO. And bottoming out the LCA will crack it.
Nope there is room for 20mm more drop at the shock before the arm come in contact with the shock dust shield on AHC shocks, more than 20mm and you run into pb with the arm contacting the frame at the arm mounting towers, and also contacting the brakes lines, more than 20mm is almost useless as the top arm is in such an angle that there is very little more drop to be gained and extensive mods would be needed for limited gains, the best mod would be widening the front suspension by 30mm per side, that would free some added travel. So 20mm more drop is what i am after, and the shocks have plenty of up , unused travel available so they won't bottom in in full compression.
Koni raid are 11mm longer than stock
EFS XTR also 11mm longer
Ironman (all), toughdogs, OME, etc etc are all stock length...for the front.
DAZ from autocraft had custom bilstein made 20mm longer as well for their market
King are a bit longer but i don't have measurment.
I have pictures of a toughdog with a 17mm spacer, i want to replicate that, possibly on the Ironman FCP
Koni raid are 11mm longer than stock
EFS XTR also 11mm longer
Ironman (all), toughdogs, OME, etc etc are all stock length...for the front.
DAZ from autocraft had custom bilstein made 20mm longer as well for their market
King are a bit longer but i don't have measurment.
I have pictures of a toughdog with a 17mm spacer, i want to replicate that, possibly on the Ironman FCP
