intake valve into cylinder

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Pogue

10 Year 15 Year
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May 3, 2007
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tx
Been a while since I sold my 80's, so I haven't been on here. I picked up an 87 4Runner running rough. I figured it was the head gasket but when I opened it up, cylinders 1 and 4 are being hit by the intake valves. What is the cheapest option out of this? Just replacing those two valves or all of them? Or would a used complete head be easist?

Thanks,
Riley
4runner piston.webp
 
Dunno. Bought it off the back of a lot with no history other than running like crap. I really just want to make it run. Will a 22R head bolt right on without swapping the crank or anything? I know the timing chains and pulleys are different, but I know where a good one is. If I just swap out those two valves and check the timing I should be good to go, right? I usually have a habit of going all the way. Pulling the head machining everything, port and polishing while I'm there, etc. but this time I realy just want it back on the road. Reliably, but cheaply. If I can do this without a machine shop or anything other than a used head or even a few valves, life is good.
 
Pogue said:
Will a 22R head bolt right on without swapping the crank or anything? I know the timing chains and pulleys are different, but I know where a good one is.
Click to expand...

Timing chains & pulleys are the same, as long as it is the same "generation" of engine, post 8/84. Heads are the same.

Maybe I'm not looking carefully enough, but I don't see any evidence that the valves are hitting the pistons in that picture. Those dished cutouts in the pistons are factory.
 
The head a friend has is older. Double row chain, steel guides, etc.

I went out and looked, I just flat out missed the cutouts in the other pistons. I was only focused on 1 and 4 because thats where the gasket failed. Is the 22re really that far of an interference engine?
 
I checked and all of the pistons have that divot. I just missed it because I wasn't looking for it. KLF is saying that is factory and Ive done a little looking today, seems he's right. Since thats the case Im going back to a simple head gasket failure and I'll put it back together tomorrow and see what happens. A little mystery oil in the cylinders since it's been a while, run it for a minute then change the oil and away we go.

All I know is the lot sold it to a young lady, 2 months later she had it towed back saying it barely ran and they let it sit for a year. I had them drop it off at my house and I am just now getting to it. Anything else you can think of while I'm in there? I kinda half-assed checked the valves, timing chain and all look good. According to the book in the glovebox and the dealer they did a major service 800ish miles ago. All fluids, valves etc. The plugs are white and crusty, leading me to think failure by water.
 
Hey, Pogue... Cylinder head and block I.D.

As you'll see the deck heights changed like KLF said in 84... So the "dual timing chain" head your friend has will not/ should not work. A dead giveaway to it not working is EFI... Carb, and it is possible a PO put a 81-84 block in it...

Scroll on down to see how to ID blocks.

http://www.lcengineering.com/TechNotes/?techid=49
 
uh, wait a minute... A 22R has valve reliefs cut in the pistons and it's still positive interference?:eek:


What the heck, Mr.T?


Progue, w/o knowing the compression, looks like you better hope it was a head gasket...

Depending on what I found, I'd re-ring it, closely inspect the timing cover, and have the head redone...

I'd say around $300 with that, depending on your local rates.

I recently had a low comp engine and broke it down to find the wrong rings were used and all but one were broke...
 
Sorry for the confusion, my motor is a 22re, the spare is a 22R, pre 84. This is all academic now as I already have it most of the way back together. Radiator and fan go back in the morning. So I guess I'll find out tomorrow! It will either run or not, right?

Cylinders still have faint crosshatching in them, everything is smooth as glass and tight, valves are within spec, everything looks ok I just got weirded out by the divots in the pistons because of all the horror stories I'd heard about these motors eating valves. The only problem area was a very few tiny metal shavings under the valve cover,like glitter, around the rockers. If it craters it will get the 22r I was going to steal the head off of, so no huge deal.

Progress report in the afternoon...
 
Fired right up and pings like a bastard! I'ts a metal on metal slap, corresponding to RPMs. Since it's just me here I can't tell for sure if it is top end or bottom end. Sounds like bottom but there were very fine shavings in the top around the cam.

Now what? I am probably not up to pulling the motor, Lower end I am willing to replace the bearings but what in the top is gonna cause this?

Thanks
 
Fire it up and take a long extension, hold one end to your ear, use the other end like a probe to listen for the location, try to pinpoint where it's coming from.

I assume you checked the valve clearances?

Are you sure you don't have a stuck valve?
 
Throwing this back up because the rattle is in the bottom end, I was hearing it echo through the exhaust. I alreday did my valves and the cam and rockers look good. It's a pretty steady clacking and but when you rev it up to 1200 and it idles down the noise falters, kinda like two stroke exhaust, if that makes sense.

Now that I found that and took the skid plate off I found it leaks about a drop a second out of the crank pulley. First concern is the noise, what is loose in there? I'm hoping to get the pan off tomorrow so I would like to know what I'm looking for.

Thanks
 
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