- Thread starter
- #21
Drilled holes in new to match locations and installed Riv-nuts using an improvised tool. The proper tool looks like a pop-riveter... but I don't own one. So...
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Installing an 81 hardtop onto my 74 (keeping the hatch) (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter bikersmurf
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Drilled holes in new to match locations and installed Riv-nuts using an improvised tool. The proper tool looks like a pop-riveter... but I don't own one. So...
- Thread starter
- #22
After threading in the bolt, I used one wrench to keep the bolt from turning while I turned the nut down onto the Riv-nut to compress it. After successfully installing 4 I found the Riv-nuts wanted to start turning, so I replaced the washer with a scr@p of sheet metal to prevent the nut from turning the Riv-nut.
- Thread starter
- #23
After installing nuts, strikers, and struts we're back in business. (I used 1/4"-20 nuts and bolts for simplicity)
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- Thread starter
- #24
Well I hope this all makes sense and people find it useful. The same principles should apply for early and late model hardtops.
- Thread starter
- #25
I was asked in another thread th width of the hatch opening.
With the hatch closed, from the outside, I took the following measurements: 41 5/8" top, 41 1/2" bottom. In metric, the average width is approximately 105.5 cm with about a 3 mm variance from top to bottom. These measurements are taken from the bend in the sheet metal that is visible when the hatch is closed.
Which is aproximately 5 mm on either side of the hatch.
With the hatch closed, from the outside, I took the following measurements: 41 5/8" top, 41 1/2" bottom. In metric, the average width is approximately 105.5 cm with about a 3 mm variance from top to bottom. These measurements are taken from the bend in the sheet metal that is visible when the hatch is closed.
Which is aproximately 5 mm on either side of the hatch.
Damn bud, you have to lock your steering wheel up? That sucks!
- Thread starter
- #27
Don't need to... Just have spent 20 years and a lot of cash building it and am not willing to trade it for the $1500-2000 that the book value is on these trucks. The book value is what the insurance company goes by, and they don't care about replacement cost. This 40 went missing from nearby and the owner is currently fighting with ICBC.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/ca-bc-vancouver-island-cruisers/447991-my-trucks-gone.html
I'm not sure about your rig, but if you've had a good look at the ignition lock on a 74 you'd lock it up if you were anywhere near civilization also. I can get past them (without doing any damage) in about 30 seconds, and I'm only a back yard mechanic, not a crook.
Door locks are virtually useless... When I was in college I used to turn off the lights on another 40 using my ignition key to get in.
- Thread starter
- #28
It has come to my attention that other mud members are having issues with the width of the hatch being too narrow. I didn't have this problem but for the sake of making this thread more informative, I would like to hear more about the problems people are having.
If you've had problems, or are having them, I welcome you to add to this thread... pictures are always appreciated (and useful to finding solutions).
In https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/418434-convert-78-hard-top-accept-flip-up-rear-gate.html I compared the 81 Header bar to a 74 one that I have... the 81 bar is less than a 1/16" longer than the 74 one.
I'd like to learn if it's an assembly issue, damage to tubs or ?? that is causing these problems.
If you've had problems, or are having them, I welcome you to add to this thread... pictures are always appreciated (and useful to finding solutions).
In https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/418434-convert-78-hard-top-accept-flip-up-rear-gate.html I compared the 81 Header bar to a 74 one that I have... the 81 bar is less than a 1/16" longer than the 74 one.
I'd like to learn if it's an assembly issue, damage to tubs or ?? that is causing these problems.
I will through the lift gate on and take some pics for you guys of the gap I have on both sides.
I didn't have time last night to install the lift gate, but I did measure the width of the hard top opening from inside to inside.
Can anyone do the same for me to verify what I have is consistant with what you have.
Top: 41"
Bottom:41.5"
Hatch is 41.25 outside to outside
Can anyone do the same for me to verify what I have is consistant with what you have.
Top: 41"
Bottom:41.5"
Hatch is 41.25 outside to outside
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- Thread starter
- #32
Measurements...
I took these measurements from a different point...
41" (that you measured) seams about right... or at least very close.
The sides should be parallel top to bottom. It appears that bottom is splayed out, the question is why? Is your tub tweaked or?
I took these measurements from a different point...
41" (that you measured) seams about right... or at least very close.
The sides should be parallel top to bottom. It appears that bottom is splayed out, the question is why? Is your tub tweaked or?
Tub is good, but I did a full resto on it and the new rubber seals pushed the bottom out just enough to not be able to bolt the tub to the hard top (from the inside) This is causing the problem I guess.
- Thread starter
- #34
Is the tub also 41"?
I've had to use a punch (or screw driver) to align the sides to the holes.
I've had to use a punch (or screw driver) to align the sides to the holes.
Ive got a lead on a very low rust 74 tub and hardtop. Im building a 77 and the rear end is a giant rust hole but the front is in decent shape. Im thinking about splitting the tub on the 77 and using the 74 3/4 tub and the top. this includes the hatch. Before I dive head long into this I was wondering if there are any major roadblocks I might run into?
Thanks bikersmurf for the write up it seems you have some success going the other way so maybe this will work.
Thanks bikersmurf for the write up it seems you have some success going the other way so maybe this will work.
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If you are using EVERYTHING from the ass end of the '74, you should have no issues. But I MEAN everything. Right down to the licence plate holder and the tire carrier.
Best
Mark A.
- Thread starter
- #37
Door strikers are different between 77 & 74. There are workarounds... Or you could graft some 77 parts onto the 74 tub if you're going to use 75 or newer doors.
I believe the door limiters are also different.
Bikersmurf gave me the ideas on top swap. 81 top on a 74 tub Non-USA. Mine was actually wider at the tub top and I had to use a large turn buckle to pull it in to the measurements he had. PO was trying to make a race rig once and had things wacked some what. Anyway I had other issues that I have solved such as parts availability and top was in rough condition in the rear. I did find the hatch with the header bar but no hinges and had to borrow one for a machine shop tp make me a pair for like $30. I like it except one main issue. I believe Bikersmurf is 6'-4", I am 6'-2" Not sure about him but I have tried my best to remove the hatch with my head more than once ha ha! Ouch! Learn to duck is all I can say.
Oh and mine was a soft top but not oem and a hard top that came on the truck was non exsistant. I used what I could get and it worked.
Oh and mine was a soft top but not oem and a hard top that came on the truck was non exsistant. I used what I could get and it worked.
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Bikersmurf gave me the ideas on top swap. 81 top on a 74 tub Non-USA. Mine was actually wider at the tub top and I had to use a large turn buckle to pull it in to the measurements he had. PO was trying to make a race rig once and had things wacked some what. Anyway I had other issues that I have solved such as parts availability and top was in rough condition in the rear. I did find the hatch with the header bar but no hinges and had to borrow one for a machine shop tp make me a pair for like $30. I like it except one main issue. I believe Bikersmurf is 6'-4", I am 6'-2" Not sure about him but I have tried my best to remove the hatch with my head more than once ha ha! Ouch! Learn to duck is all I can say.
That looks nice and clean
What seats are those?
Roboosfj40s that look really good. If I didn't know better I would think its OE.
