How hard is it to change roof headers? I want to replace a '74 header with a '78. (The 74 is in mint condition; the '78 will need some work.)
Thanks.
Thanks.
Installing an 81 hardtop onto my 74 (keeping the hatch) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter bikersmurf
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #62
Chaning the header across the top of windshield is easy. That said, the offset iss 1/4" different between a 74 & a 78... Also 4 holes and 4 knotches is a 74 for top wipers (see page 1 of this thread).
I'm sure it has been done, but I'd closely compare them before making a decision.
I'm sure it has been done, but I'd closely compare them before making a decision.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #63
Re hatch header bar ---> https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/418434-convert-78-hard-top-accept-flip-up-rear-gate.html
- Thread starter
- #64
The dimensions match.
Anyone notice that the top from an earlier ambulance-era is too long for a 73 tub and protrudes out the back?
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #66
I've compared the sides, side by side, and the panels are the same length. The header bar over the front windshield is about 1/4" different.
Do you have pictures of the fitment issue? Often the windshield isn't at the correct to the fire wall. The other thing is that the top of the cowl often gets pulled/bent rearwards.
Do you have pictures of the fitment issue? Often the windshield isn't at the correct to the fire wall. The other thing is that the top of the cowl often gets pulled/bent rearwards.
Here is a link to a photo. fj40
BTW, what is the preferred photo host service?
It is hard to tell from my image because of the shop light. But, I initially got the sense that this bondo sculpture of a tub would basically match-up, but I wasn't sure because it was an abrupt transition from the top to the tub, particularly toward the rear. So, I thought I would check to see what others have to say. Anyway, I'll probably not buy this rig because the doors, top and tub have quite a bit missing. It was advertised that it was "all there." That, and there is some a bit of precipitate formed on the interior of the radiator under the radiator cap.
BTW, what is the preferred photo host service?
It is hard to tell from my image because of the shop light. But, I initially got the sense that this bondo sculpture of a tub would basically match-up, but I wasn't sure because it was an abrupt transition from the top to the tub, particularly toward the rear. So, I thought I would check to see what others have to say. Anyway, I'll probably not buy this rig because the doors, top and tub have quite a bit missing. It was advertised that it was "all there." That, and there is some a bit of precipitate formed on the interior of the radiator under the radiator cap.
- Thread starter
- #68
That's the way they all fit. It allows space for weather stripping.
Rig doesn't look bad from the one picture. Price has to be right.
- Thread starter
- #69
Skipping the '73 was less about the truck, and more about the seller's situation. He was pressing me for a decision, but so much of the doors and body was missing or still encased in bubble wrap, although he told me that, "it's all there." The posts on the top sides were broken off the top, the rain gutter was missing, the doors were missing a bunch of hardware, and I would have needed both (smaller) door windows and associated hardware, all the weather stripping, windshield, side glass, wiper arms, repairs on the tub lip next to where the top bolts down (Pennsylvania cancer), body-fillered holes for the barn doors, and, a rear-sill that is covered by 3/4" of sheet metal. I've done a cruiser body before, although, now, I have no garage. But, this one had just enough precipitate / sediment building up under the radiator cap, that makes me wonder how corroded the cooling internals of this F is and if my $7,500 would be better directed elsewhere.
