Installing a rear main seal on 1978 2F - pain in the .....

dmaddox

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I was careful, I lubricated, but my goodness. I even carefully and evenly pressed and the rubber on the lower right side just started to shave off. I want the peace of mind here, but damn the install is tricky.....

Question, order a new one and pull this out? Or just shove this in?

These seals are expensive. I kind of already know the answer, but can someone who has installed several of these chime in?

I mean - what is the secret? Such a pain in the butt to install!!!

I will have to order another one and pull this one out, flushing 60$ down the drain.

Thoughts?

8CB1A28C-727F-4A98-BCFA-FC92E402816C_1_201_a.jpeg
 

Jdc1

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I’ve done it twice, so far so good. Make sure to keep track of any shims under the cap.

Here’s another good link, don’t be stingy with the FIPG.

 

dmaddox

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Perfect - thanks. I read through both posts. I apologize if this question is stupid - however, when replacing the main bearing and cap after I have the new rear main seal in place, what is the procedure or products?

Do I need to use assembly lube, any sealant or blue/red thread sealer on the four main cap bolts? Or, just clean and re-install exactly as it came apart?

Steve mentioned: "After the seal was seated, the main bearing got a little shot of oil, the cap had a little sealer applied to the surface that meets the block as per the FSM and the main cap is installed and the four bolts are torqued to 76-94 foot pounds."

Little shot of oil - I assume just motor oil?
little sealer - I am assuming some fipg?
76-94 is quite the gap! I guess I'll split the difference and set the torque wrench to 85ish?

Thank you!
 
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I literally just did this a few hours ago. I tried driving it in, just kept popping out and making a mess. Was worried I would toast the seal. So I came in from the shop and read the threads about the rear main.
Doh! Dropped the #4 and it was so much better. Now the pistons are finished an in instead of messin' with that stupid seal.
 

dmaddox

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I cracked the 2F ENGINE repair manual and did not see any sealant or any other product used but clean engine oil on reassembly.

"Apply clean engine oil on the sliding and rotating surfaces of the parts before assembly."

D8F2A34E-3419-41A8-A06C-674F44EFA4DD_1_201_a.jpeg


No. 4. - 76-94 ft. lb:

C8C34861-6D68-4AB2-97CA-A4760103B81B_1_201_a.jpeg
 

dmaddox

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First, in these cases when they say “liquid sealer” what is that exactly?

@rflegal Would you be able to take another closer photo of that for me? Thank you.

The book I am using doesn’t even have that page or instruction. Here is from my last page:


DFC12BF5-E638-4708-9ADC-E13DA504AE29.jpeg
 

1911

chupacabra
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With that little hint, I was able to find the solution, posts 43 and 44 here: Builds - H55/Splitcase into 02/79-40 Series

However, is removing the main bearing cap the way to do this? I mean, I'd rather leave well enough alone, but if it means a clean install on the rear main, I'll dig into it.....
Yes, it is absolutely the foolproof way to replace the main seal.
 

Living in the Past

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I’ve done it twice, so far so good. Make sure to keep track of any shims under the cap.
The shims ended with the 73 model. 74 was the last model year of the F and first model year of the new improved oils system. Guess the non shim caps were part of the redesign of F series engine. Dealt with shims before. I have also dealt with the 3FE which each main and rod bearing that have stamp on the the bottom of the block that tells which bearing to use. The rod bearings are either A B or C. Mains are 1-5 plus which main number your dealing with to get the right bearing. 2F is the easiest to deal with.
 

Jdc1

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The shims ended with the 73 model. 74 was the last model year of the F and first model year of the new improved oils system. Guess the non shim caps were part of the redesign of F series engine. Dealt with shims before. I have also dealt with the 3FE which each main and rod bearing that have stamp on the the bottom of the block that tells which bearing to use. The rod bearings are either A B or C. Mains are 1-5 plus which main number your dealing with to get the right bearing. 2F is the easiest to deal with.
Thanks LITP, I learn something new every time you post.
 
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First, in these cases when they say “liquid sealer” what is that exactly?

@rflegal Would you be able to take another closer photo of that for me? Thank you.

The book I am using doesn’t even have that page or instruction. Here is from my last page:


DFC12BF5-E638-4708-9ADC-E13DA504AE29.jpeg
I have that same manual and have used it many years, and yes it looks like some pages are not addressed. The whole section on reassembly seems to be missing some things that you would expect. I have a PDF copy of the 1984 manual I got free online if you need it (would have to find the link again)- PM me. I got a very nice paper copy from Amazon for like 26 bucks.

For liquid sealer, I cleaned everything with acetone and used black RTV. If you have the main caps off, this is security. Other brand engines I have rebuild in the past (from Ford to VW to AMC to Subaru to Continental, and more) I have done similar with one piece seals. Old rope seals are a different story.
 
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I have that same manual and have used it many years, and yes it looks like some pages are not addressed. The whole section on reassembly seems to be missing some things that you would expect. I have a PDF copy of the 1984 manual I got free online if you need it (would have to find the link again)- PM me. I got a very nice paper copy from Amazon for like 26 bucks.

For liquid sealer, I cleaned everything with acetone and used black RTV. If you have the main caps off, this is security. Other brand engines I have rebuild in the past (from Ford to VW to AMC to Subaru to Continental, and more) I have done similar with one piece seals. Old rope seals are a different story.
Sorry it was Aug 1980, not 84.
Link to Azon - MANUAL

Capture MANUAL.JPG
 
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