Installing 7" springs. Guess what i found

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WristPin

WristPin

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Joined
Sep 14, 2005
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The NW, Cascade Mountian Range
on the passenger side rear spring, front hangar, a few cracks on the out side, and :mad: huge crack on the inside. the weld anlong the bottom is completley gone.
I couldnt have chose a worse spot for my jack stand either. right in the heart of the damage. cant tell fron the out side its jacked. but you can on the inside.

some of its caused by those factory stamped holes in the frame filling with mud, and water, which leads to rust. I knew this was eventually going to happen. im just glad i found it be fore i went out and tried to kill my truck like i always do.

I'll take pics. im going to get it back on the ground and prep it for repair. im gonna weld a 1/8" gusset around it. i'll get before and after pics. hopefully the metal isnt to rotted and wont burn through when i weld it.

any tips you guys have?
 
I've repaired several frames from rust damage. I hope to never do it again. The job sucks.

A word of caution: it may look like a simple crack now that you can just fill with weld. But, once you start chipping away and run a wire wheel across it, you'll be shocked to see the the true damage. Be prepared to pull the bed off and drop the tank, so you can plate the whole frame. Then you will find out how much fun it is to try to get welds to stick to rusty paper-thin metal. The MIG will blow holes thru what looks like solid metal, it gets really fun.

I fixed the frame on my ol' 84 several times, I finally gave up. I really miss that truck.
 
x a billion :frown:

on my, $500, just blowed the motor 84 :frown:

the outside looks ok except for a few places and it just looks like your typical painted surface rust on the rear. everywhere you can see in the frame is bad, its de-leafing and I'm just wondering how long it will last :frown: because I want to put my 86 Turbo cab on it since I found frame damage on that ones frame :frown:


any frame repair threads?
 
That sucks wristy!

Sounds like it might be easier to just find another frame and move all your junk onto it.

I'm off to the pick and pull today for JIS reduced head bolts--you want me to keep an eye out for a New Mexico rust free frame for you? :flipoff2:


Don't you love how you can pick the worst possible spot possible for the jack stand? It's like magic!

Dan
 
Where is the cab mount info at?...the various frames and cab mount locations

I think there is a link in FAQ but most the stuff is gone or its just one frame. don't remember.

I'm thinking that all the pre-complicated (Tacoma) frames and cabs will interchange....?
 
All the FSM's have detailed frame diagrams in them, in the back.

You can't swap frames and cabs willy-nilly, at least not without moving body mounts. For instance, an Xtra-cab won't swap directly to a reg cab frame, the back cab mount is in a different location. An Xtra cab requires a LWB frame (well... unless you do some odd-ball hybrid thing like bobbing 8" off the front of the bed).
 
here is a pic of the drivers side, which isnt jacked. this is what it should look like:

2423196369_c514262877.jpg


heres the problem side:

2423196367_1d9cc9529e.jpg

2423196359_19cd1bc2fe.jpg



then the out side view:

2423196373_e12ba3d4d6.jpg


here is what it looks like so far. once i get my 35's back on there, and cycle the springs, it should sit close to this height.

2423224743_4f0086dff4.jpg
 
i am not looking forward to this repair. i know no matter how low i turn down the welder, im gonn burn through.

the bed is full of garbage. once its gone, ill take off the bed and it'l be easier to get to. :mad:
 
KLF said:
All the FSM's have detailed frame diagrams in them, in the back.

You can't swap frames and cabs willy-nilly, at least not without moving body mounts. For instance, an Xtra-cab won't swap directly to a reg cab frame, the back cab mount is in a different location. An Xtra cab requires a LWB frame (well... unless you do some odd-ball hybrid thing like bobbing 8" off the front of the bed).
Click to expand...


:whoops: I forgot to mention that, EX the ex cabs. What about all frames and all regular cabs?

79-95?

Can you "poor mans" with the grease/ DT service diagram on the sun visor?


And Wristy, I'm glad you found it in time. Sorry for your situation though.


Chin up, slap a nice newER frame on it PM the hell out of it and enjoy it for another, ? well..???..lifetime?

I'm gonna have to body off my 4runner someday....
 
man that is messed up..

this sounds bad,, but I am going to post it up anyways..
I have never seen a frame that full of crap.
I have never found a way to clean it all out.
I have used a 1/4 inch line on a garden hose and used about 1000 gallons of water. that is the best that I have gotten one cleaned out.. ( I bet there was at least.. a 5 gallon bucket full of shait that I got out.) I then used the same line with a garden sprayer to spray the inside with oil..
course the resulting fire from welding. :D:mad::p

have thought about taking my next project truck down to roto rooter to have them use thier High pressure line cleaner used on it.
they even have camera's so you can see the inside of the frame.


as for the cracks. I would lay a 4 inch grinder on them and weld them back up.
if you are going to plate I would use 3/16th's steel.

I have plated frames for cross over steering, bumpers.. but I have never had the cracks that you are showing.. I am going to inspect both of our trucks for that.
good luck.. I just had a buddy tell me that he got a 83 for free. I told him to take a hammer to the frame in all the weak area's that we all know of. WY..
frame problems ummmmmm suck.. good luck again.
 
Ahh Duuude... Thats Sucky


First Off, You Should Clean The Mud Off So You Have A Clean Frame To Work On, Also Wire Wheel Like 2nd Gen Said... Also Check For Thin Metal (Rusted Section) Take A Punch And Hammer To Check For And Further Weak Spots.

2423196359_19cd1bc2fe.jpg


This Looks Like A Stress Crack From When The Weld Broke The Bottom Of Your Frame.

You Can Aslo Use A Torch And A Hammer To Push Your Spring Hanger Back In Place, And You Can Also Use Some 2" Angle Iron To Weld, And Brace The Bottom Of The Frame.

When Welding Your Frame Use 3/16"-1/4" Steel Overlapping Atleast 2".

If There Is Room You Should Put A Cross Brace From Side To Side If You Are Further Worried About It...



Good Luck, And Always Have Fun :)
 
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