Initial fitting of a Sniper 2GC Large Bore *Updated with new adapter info* (1 Viewer)

thecrazygreek

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I finally started on my next project. A 77 with original 2F.

Pulled the engine for a rebuild but wanted to see how the Sniper 2GC would fit and what modifications would be needed.

I'm happy to report that I was able to get the 2GC fitted with 10 minutes of time, and a 10mm drill bit.
The only thing remaining to do is a 2" spacer between the heat riser and Sniper unit. Another option would be to add a spacer on top of the Sniper, but I think having it below will help with heat, and air flow.

The stock air cleaner is a perfect match to the opening of the 2GC in both size and alignment of the mounting stud.

My next step will be to get that spacer made and have it ready to go when this engine if finished being rebuilt.

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thecrazygreek

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I'm assuming this involved drilling new mounting holes in the sniper?
Exactly...
It's about 1.5mm larger.

With the increased size there's still no interference or weakness in the throttle body. And super easy to drill being aluminum.

You could use a file instead and just file towards the middle. This would take off less material.

I just picked up a 2x4x9 inch aluminum block. So total cost for my "adapter kit" is under 50 bucks!! Plus maybe an hour or so of time.
 
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Exactly...
It's about 1.5mm larger.

With the increased size there's still no interference or weakness in the throttle body. And super easy to drill being aluminum.

You could use a file instead and just file towards the middle. This would take off less material.

I just picked up a 2x4x9 inch aluminum block. So total cost for my "adapter kit" is under 50 bucks!! Plus maybe an hour or so of time.
I'm wondering if there is something that conducts heat less than aluminum that would be usable? The (I've always assumed OEM original) "insulator" on my '74 1F looks a lot like a piece of fiberglass? If it didn't need to hold threads...

I think I just found something to do if I ever get a 3D printer.
 

thecrazygreek

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Bakelite can be used as an insulator. I believe that’s what is used in the stock heat shield / Riser.

I have seen it on Amazon in 2” thickness iirc.
 

thecrazygreek

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Just curious as to what your thoughts are on going to the large bore as your new go to over the smaller bore sniper?
I installed a small bore on my 64 with single barrel manifold. It matched up better for that particular application.
But for the later two barrel rigs, I think this is the winner winner chicken dinner!

All you need is a 2 inch spacer / risor and to enlarge the mounting holes on the throttle body by ~1.5mm.

The aircleaner seated perfectly onto this unit. I want as stock looking as I can get with the least amount of fuss. This unit also has two options for running your fuel lines which is a nice bonus.

Internally all the Sniper 2 barrels are basically the same and performance is fairly even across the board.
 
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A quick google search yesterday showed aluminum 1" base spacers for the large bore 2GC readily available from the net for very affordable prices, there were even some phenolic ones (heat insulator). That is if I was looking at the right items, I think I was. They have a wider mounting surface to make sure the vacuum passages on the base of the unit are covered well. Then a spacer under the aircleaner, which were also available, in varying thicknesses and this would almost be a bolt on affair. The original phenolic spacer will take care of the heat still.

You going to run a fuel can under the hood with the pump in it, or just go external pump?

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thecrazygreek

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A quick google search yesterday showed aluminum 1" base spacers for the large bore 2GC readily available from the net for very affordable prices, there were even some phenolic ones (heat insulator). That is if I was looking at the right items, I think I was. They have a wider mounting surface to make sure the vacuum passages on the base of the unit are covered well. Then a spacer under the aircleaner, which were also available, in varying thicknesses and this would almost be a bolt on affair. The original phenolic spacer will take care of the heat still.

You going to run a fuel can under the hood with the pump in it, or just go external pump?

View attachment 2566483

Thanks for the info!
I have done some research and believe I can 3D print a spacer using a High Heat Resin on my Mono LCD printer. (not a filament type)

The resin can withstand up to 360 degrees F without distortion. I most likely will just go with Aluminum but it will be fun to experiment.

For fuel delivery I picked up the Holley in-tank retrofit pump.

Looks like it will do the job and has a neat way of installing. I'm not 100% sure everything will fit up, but if it doesn't I was going to go for an external tank solution. Maybe the one Marks off-road sells. Then plumb this pump into that tank.
 
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Awesome! This is what Im going to eventually do on my F engine. Keeping everything concentric will make it easier to retain my stock air cleaner with an adapter I can make myself
 

thecrazygreek

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So I tried out a 2 inch tall x 3 inch ID pipe spacer between the aircleaner and Sniper body (ABS just for fitting) and found that it fits like a glove around the throttle body opening, but does not slide inside the aircleaner. So you would need to either machine or sleeve whatever spacer / pipe you were using. Not a big deal, but something to consider.

3D Printed options for either the Riser (under) or air cleaner spacer are looking more and more attractive.
 

thecrazygreek

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Riser in slicer. 3D Printing a prototype for mocking up and measurements.

If anyone is interested the mounting holes on a 2F Manifold are 2" x 3.55" The 2GC is 2" x 3.68"

This design will allow a one piece two gasket solution that won't require modifying the Sniper unit.

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