Builds indycole's 2016 200 Series Build and Retrospective (2 Viewers)

[TonyP]

That Auto-vox is damn cool. I'm adding that to my list.
The lack of autodimming would be a bit of a pain. It looks like the complete replacement unit (X1Pro) can auto-dimm.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CMK74J...&pd_rd_r=2cdbc42e-1234-11e9-a91c-6de4ed454f26

I agree though, in a 200 that's a bit of a leap to replace the entire mirror.

 

[indycole]

That Auto-vox is damn cool. I'm adding that to my list.
The lack of autodimming would be a bit of a pain. It looks like the complete replacement unit (X1Pro) can auto-dimm.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CMK74J...&pd_rd_r=2cdbc42e-1234-11e9-a91c-6de4ed454f26

I agree though, in a 200 that's a bit of a leap to replace the entire mirror.

Maybe someone else will try the full replacement and see if there's any collateral damage? Eh, @Markuson?

 

[TonyP]

Maybe someone else will try the full replacement and see if there's any collateral damage? Eh, @Markuson?

I think replacing the mirror is a step down for Mark. Dude is drilling holes in all his interior.

That said, go for it.

 

[Markuson]

I think replacing the mirror is a step down for Mark. Dude is drilling holes in all his interior.

That said, go for it.

Heh... Honestly, I doubt it’s anything more than swapping the screen’s peg onto the mirror peg mount that’s on the glass—just like every time you swap windshields. Seems totally reversible if no likey...

 

[RET2]

Did we just get a volunteer? Sounds like it me anyway. I suspect there is a little bit of stock wiring to contend with?

 

[TonyP]

Heh... Honestly, I doubt it’s anything more that swapping the screen’s peg onto the mirror peg mount that’s on the glass—just like every time you swap windshields. Seems totally reversible if no likey...

From Googling pics, I think the ball mount is different. I could be wrong though.
Interested in seeing if it works. It'll be very cool if it's an easy swap. I see a lot of people going for it.

Edit: I don't know if it'll throw any codes for homelink... I doubt it but it's something to consider. Just unplugging the OEM mirror is a way to test that. Hell, the wrong clock throws an SRS code so who knows.

 

[Markuson]

Thinking the clip that’s flush with the glass is pretty generic to mirror posts. Not sure. The arrow points to what I mean:

 

[TonyP]

Thinking the clip that’s flush with the glass is pretty generic to mirror posts. The arrow points to what I mean:

View attachment 1872569

Could be for newer vehicles. Older ones vary. BMWs up to late 90s for sure. They use some wacky round looking tri-clamp. But those Germans march to their own beat.

Snag one and let us know.

 

[indycole]

Hey Cole,

How much vertical clearance do you have on the shelf above the fridge? I have the same NL fridge and will be installing a Trekboxx setup (on order). For now, I'm thinking of running a Goal Zero Yeti 1000 to power the fridge (until I'm able to spring for a dual battery setup), and would like to squeeze it into that space directly above the fridge, if possible. Also, the battery weighs ~42lbs...do you think the shelf would accommodate that (maybe a question for Dave)?

Thanks!

Sorry, I'd almost forgotten about this. Regarding clearance for items stored on the shelf, take a look at the contour of the roof line in the cargo area. There's more "head room" on the interior though the space slopes toward the rear and sides of the vehicle. The lines of the Trekboxx cargo system take this into account so you can roughly use the cargo barrier as a guideline though it also leaves a bit of clearance between itself and the headliner.

The ruler is slanted a bit in the photos so I'd reduce the measurement a bit. The rear-most section of the shelf has about 8.75 inches between the headliner and the shelf. That's with the 60L NL fridge... the 60L ARB fridge has much more room since it's a bit wider (and maybe longer). The forward part of the shelf has a little over 12 inches of clearance between the shelf and the headliner. The headliner slope is gradual as it's about 13 inches from the rear of the shelf to the point where you get full access to the 12 inches of height. You'll also notice that the contour on the side of the reduces the height to about 7 inches.

The Yeti 1000 would fit, technically, but it'd be difficult to access / remove as you'd need to install it first then mount the shelf. If I may, I'd consider putting 2 of the Lithium 400s up there if that would work for your needs? They'd fit and they're just 16lb each.

Here are some photos to help...

 

[indycole]

I received a PM about keeping the air coupler clean given its position on the front bumper. I neglected to add a photo of the coupler with the "pacifier" that Wits' End sells — Quick Connect Air Coupler Pacifier.

 

[Tierra Cruiser]

Sorry, I'd almost forgotten about this. Regarding clearance for items stored on the shelf, take a look at the contour of the roof line in the cargo area. There's more "head room" on the interior though the space slopes toward the rear and sides of the vehicle. The lines of the Trekboxx cargo system take this into account so you can roughly use the cargo barrier as a guideline though it also leaves a bit of clearance between itself and the headliner.

The ruler is slanted a bit in the photos so I'd reduce the measurement a bit. The rear-most section of the shelf has about 8.75 inches between the headliner and the shelf. That's with the 60L NL fridge... the 60L ARB fridge has much more room since it's a bit wider (and maybe longer). The forward part of the shelf has a little over 12 inches of clearance between the shelf and the headliner. The headliner slope is gradual as it's about 13 inches from the rear of the shelf to the point where you get full access to the 12 inches of height. You'll also notice that the contour on the side of the reduces the height to about 7 inches.

The Yeti 1000 would fit, technically, but it'd be difficult to access / remove as you'd need to install it first then mount the shelf. If I may, I'd consider putting 2 of the Lithium 400s up there if that would work for your needs? They'd fit and they're just 16lb each.

Here are some photos to help...

View attachment 1872750 View attachment 1872751 View attachment 1872752 View attachment 1872753

I appreciate the detailed photos! I also have the 60L NL fridge, and already purchased the Yeti 1000. You're right, it'd be a very tight squeeze, if even possible (and practical for that matter).

David W. also suggested the possibility of squeezing the battery in behind the fridge onto the slide itself, which would be great if we can make it work (in terms of the available space). I'm going to look into this as well. Thanks again for your help!

 

[indycole]

David W. also suggested the possibility of squeezing the battery in behind the fridge onto the slide itself, which would be great if we can make it work (in terms of the available space). I'm going to look into this as well. Thanks again for your help!

I bet that would work. You may have to get creative with mounting the fridge but if anyone can figure it out Dave can.

 

[RET2]

I received a PM about keeping the air coupler clean given its position on the front bumper. I neglected to add a photo of the coupler with the "pacifier" that Wits' End sells — Quick Connect Air Coupler Pacifier.

View attachment 1872933

Does the second bracket at the pacifier inhibit the push-pull operation of the QD?

 

[indycole]

Does the second bracket at the pacifier inhibit the push-pull operation of the QD?

Naw, still plenty of room to get a bite on the knurled edges of the QD.

 

[RET2]

Naw, still plenty of room to get a bite on the knurled edges of the QD.

Ok, thanks. I'll order an extra bracket in addition to the pacifier. Thinking of dual install front and rear.

 

[Markuson]

Ok, thanks. I'll order an extra bracket in addition to the pacifier. Thinking of dual install front and rear.

Yay.
You figure that out and I’ll copy Yoo...

My thinker is sore..

Plus I can barely see.
Having to zoom waaaay in on my phone just to use mud...

 

[indycole]

The Icom 5100A is hooked up. It's definitely a high quality radio though a bit more complex than the old Yaesu. Time to spend some time with the manual. The one surprise with this unit is that the mic plugs in directly to the radio itself instead of the faceplate. This made wiring the extensions a bit more complicated and messy than I'd like. The mic also use RJ45 cable so the connector and cable is on the bulky side... I'm looking into trying to find right angle connectors and making my own cables to clean it up a bit.

 

[grinchy]

Yay.
You figure that out and I’ll copy Yoo...

My thinker is sore..

Plus I can barely see.
Having to zoom waaaay in on my phone just to use mud...

Just need the one way valve on both outputs from the tee.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01A63T6UU

Viair makes a few options as well, get the one that matches you tee outputs.

 

[indycole]

I finished up a couple quick changes over the long weekend and also have a couple things in motion that should wrap up in the next 10 days.

First, I added the soft-close tailgate damper from more recent model years. The tutorial and part numbers in this thread were very helpful. There was not a pre-existing drill tab; however, there was definitely a captive nut within the tailgate. I started with a small bit and worked my way up so as not to damage the threads on the captive nut. Unfortunately, the last drill bit grabbed and marred some of the threads. I re-tapped the hole and the damper bolt still worked just fine. I'll keep an eye on it.

The only trick with this install is that the damper needs to be mounted with the tailgate in the up/closed position. This is a challenge with drawers. I ended up basically "dropping" the damper in the cavity near the hinge, closed the tailgate, and then worked the damper into position from below the tailgate while it was closed. It was tedious but eventually worked just fine. Here's a video of the tailgate opening.



Thus far the tailgate is a bit tougher to close but it's a nice mod for $100 in parts plus 90 minutes of time.

In other news, next Friday I'm swapping the 12.5 gallon LRA tank for a 24 gallon. Anyone want a good deal on the 12.5 gallon prototype... I'm sure it will be a collector's item Just shoot me a PM. It will be available for pickup (and install if you're so inclined) at Valley Hybrids in Stockton. Then, I'm heading up to Redding for some Trail Tailor goodies and to hopefully utilize some basic EE skills on a project for Dingo, his 60 series build.

Lastly, a drone photo of a recent camping trip with @ethernectar and his SoCal buddies.

 

[Markuson]

Nice, Cole!

If I had my tailgate gun-locker mod to do over...I’d do the damper mod first since it’s heavy and will slam open if not careful. At this point, it would be a real pain to do after the fact.