Im getting dustless blasted!

[Jay-]

He said $800 for interior and exterior.
I have everything already takedn apart down to the tub.

The tub will stay on.

The tub off guy wanted I think $3000+ and he would take the tub off.
i don't have MAJOR rust issues so I decided to keep the tub on.

Ideas? Comments? Hatred?

Yeah I don't have the glass off I'm reading about that now.

 

[Jay-]

Im in Redding area if a few guys want to go in Ill buy the machine $7000+ and we can share the expense.

Equipment - Dustless Blasting

 

[62Cruiser]

I have just been reading about the different media blasting techniques. Pretty cool, they say the dustless uses recycled glass? Are you renting the equipment and doing the blasting or having someone do it for you? $800 for the whole truck doesn't sound bad, but I haven't asked for a quote on mine. Are you going to have it painted immediately? Curious about surface prep/flash rust. Post some pick of it "striped", would like to see what kind of surface it leaves. I've been reading about having to prep a blasted surface for primer or not, because it should already leave enough "tooth" on surface immediately following the media blast. Still no consensus yet...

 

[AlaskanWheeler]

So no dust, but you end up with glass power everywhere else?

 

[honk]

Im in Redding area if a few guys want to go in Ill buy the machine $7000+ and we can share the expense. Equipment - Dustless Blasting

Jay, this probably isn't a realistic proposal.

The air volume listed as required by these dustless blasting machines is pretty far beyond any home shop compressor and beyond most professional shop capabilities as well.

To get this kind of air you'd probably need to double or triple your $7000. estimate - probably more than that though I've no experience with compressors that can deliver these levels of output:

Dustless Blasting Air Requirements

Model DB150 60-185 CFM

DB225 - 185 CFM

DB500 - DB800 - 185-375 CFM

DB1500 - DB3000 - 375+ CFM

These are from the website's "FAQ" section. I didn't make them from whole cloth.

As a point of reference at typical 60 gal. 5 hp compressor might deliver as much as 30 CFM, but most don't come close to that.

 

[Booch]

I'm actually thinking of doing a side business of this ... Ive been researching it for about 2 months

 

[jrcfj40]

That would be great!!!! I was looking for someone in Virginia to blast my body parts. I'm located a little south of Richmond.

I'm actually thinking of doing a side business of this ... Ive been researching it for about 2 months

 

[Weber Sarge]

I looked into those systems myself when they first appeared - it's a great idea but the initial investment is pushing $30k by the time you get a screw-type compressor capable of keeping up . The other thing that caught me off guard was the liability insurance due to possible HAZMAT issues - that was half the cost per year of the investment startup .

I'd never have a truck blasted in that manner - the tub needs to come off and be stripped down . You risk destroying the engine and any other parts that move - blasting drives grit into places you won't believe , wet or dry . Also , since it's a wet system - that metal will need a phosphate coating to prevent flash rust , which if not done correctly can affect certain primers for the paint .

Sarge

 

[micruz60]

Peeling an onion... Learn as much as you can.

 

[Jay-]

I'd never have a truck blasted in that manner - the tub needs to come off and be stripped down . You risk destroying the engine and any other parts that move - blasting drives grit into places you won't believe , wet or dry . Also , since it's a wet system - that metal will need a phosphate coating to prevent flash rust , which if not done correctly can affect certain primers for the paint .

Sarge

1. Im no longer going into business, id still go 3rds though!
2. Not going tub off and not doing the engine bay but will cover it with contractor bags.
3. They do use a special liquid that will allow 3 days to get the primer. But I have a make shift paint booth and primer rig already set up.
4. Using glass not sand!

Ill keep a HD video edited of this so if any one wants to see what happens.
Also the blaster has a FJ40 and a FJ55.

 

[notaclue]

I had my 66 done and very pleased with results. Yes, the residue gets everywhere . My suggestion is allow it to dry a day or 2 and spend several hours with an air hose and vacuum before primer.$800 for tub on is reasonable

 

[notaclue]

I had my 66 done and very pleased with results. Yes, the residue gets everywhere . My suggestion is allow it to dry a day or 2 and spend several hours with an air hose and vacuum before primer.$800 for tub on is reasonable

View attachment 1211323

View attachment 1211324

 

[Jay-]

notaclue, did he do your frame and under junks also?
So far mine looks actually more taken apart then yours hahahah..

Seriousley, we have one more full day for the dash, the darn "Stereo" is jammed in there and the knobs on the dash.

The center "Cowl" or what have you I have absolutely no idea how to tackle.
I guess the entire heater needs to go?

 

[notaclue]

notaclue, did he do your frame and under junks also?
So far mine looks actually more taken apart then yours hahahah..

Seriousley, we have one more full day for the dash, the darn "Stereo" is jammed in there and the knobs on the dash.

The center "Cowl" or what have you I have absolutely no idea how to tackle.
I guess the entire heater needs to go?

1)No, I did not have him do the frame for the reasons Weber Sarge mentions( I came in after the fact with a rattle can). He did do fender wells. I removed running boards and aprons;2) i would remove the heater-you'll get a better job with fewer casualties.I triple wrapped dash wiring as well as rear wiring.I also taped multiple layers of plastic for the engine compartment BUT would cover the plastic with cardboard if I were doing it again.
The cowl damper/vent is straight-forward (although backwards and upside down when you're contorted reaching up under the dash). Remove the cowl vent screws which will expose the damper/vent. The 66 attaches with 2 small nuts on threaded rods which are part of the assembly. Suggestions:1) visit the threads on MUD or SOR diagrams; 2) Put a towel or 3 in the tranny tunnel area to catch runaways;3) get a bright flashlight with magnet to allow two-hands under the dash;4) Take two Advil because your body will remind you that you aren't 18...
I would crank up the heat and let it dry thoroughly before shooting with primer.

 

[Jay-]

well its down to the tub now, my guy said just an extra day to remove the frame.
I dunno, i'm already second guessing just media blasting with all the bits on.

Exhausting having regular job and messing with the FJ40 at night for 5 hours.
Not to mention the money involved,

im leaning for frame off now

 

[Jdc1]

Exhausting having regular job and messing with the FJ40 at night for 5 hours.
Not to mention the money involved,

im leaning for frame off now

If time and money are short, lean away quickly.

 

[Jay-]

my new mechanic charges $20 an hour. 3 half time days we removed pretty much everything but its getting to the point where its WTF why is my car in boxes!

 

[diogenese]

Boxes and bags are good, what would scare me would be a pile!

 

[Jay-]

I wonder how much more time to remove the tub from the frame now that everything is removed.
There some small bits on the firewall, I have no time frame for this project so removing frame might be fun?

 

[snaggletto]

I think there are only like 6 or 8 mounts. If you are that far disassembled then going frame off would be trivial. This way you can properly clean the frame and tub in the hard to reach areas. Painting will be much easier frame off also.